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The drilling and tapping went quite alright for a beginner (never done it before 
) I think the most important thing is the get the “starting mark” in the middle of the broken bolt.
After I did the same procedure for all the bolts(I think there was 12 of them!) , I test-bolted the water manifold to the engine.
Oh, and I didn’t need any helicoils!
So, no it’s done!
Hello Mika,
This is a good milestone for you. Thanks for sharing your adventure! Keep up the good work!
Happy Motoring,
Chris Diekman
Thanks Chris, nice to hear from you.
The story should continue soon.
I need to take the engine to my friend who will wash the “water channels” with high pressure steam washer. It really cleans everything!
By the way, do I need a brake drum puller for rear brake drum removal?
I make mine by taking a half inch thick piece of plate metal and cutting the center out to match the splines on the hub, so the plate can be put over the splines and rotated . You now have the plate behind the splines. I had another plate and four large bolts with holes drilled through the corners of each plate. Now when you tighten the bolts it puts pressure on the axle and pulls off the hub. Well, maybe after you take a torch and heat the hub up very hot. Just heat it in a straight line from the outter edge inward and it should cone off. This was the hardest job of the whole restoration for me. Good luck, Doug
Hi,
Does anyone have any measurements/info how to check if the oil pump is in good shape?
I recently removed oil pan and there was nothing unusual visible. All seemed as clean as from the factory(!)
The engine is going to high pressure steam wash next week, after that I will do a little painting on it and put it back in the car!
Usually a gear-type oil pump has two critical clearances, the end play clearance, this would be how much each gear could move between the upper and lower cover, if there is a noticable worn depression or ring where the gears have worn into the upper or lower cover, then you should measure the endplay of the gears.. around .004″ would be OK, I’d consider much more than this a reason to find another pump, or have a machinist thin down the pump body and grind smooth the upper and lower covers, giving you proper clearance.
The other important wear area is between the tips of the gears and the pump body, the tips of the gears need to be smooth and not scored, and the pump body where the gears run should also be smooth and not scored,, and scores let oil leak past the gear tips which are the ‘seals’ for the pumping action of the pump.. The gear tip to pump body should be .003″ up to a max of .006″ .
The clearances I’ve stated above are generic clearances for generic geartype oil pumps.. someone may have specific clearances for the Pierce engines, if so please correct me.
Greg L
regarding the clutch, if you reline the clutch make certain the new linings are NOT thicker than .130″ otherwise the clutch will not release and drag
I’d recommend South Bend Clutch for the relining, they know to use the proper thickness lining.
Greg
Gregory & Leo,
thanks for the advices! I’m not quite sure if the clutch needs relining. I need to measure it first.
Do you guys think there’s seals etc that needs to be replaced after long storage period , such as crankshaft seal of transmission “clutch assembly”” axle seal? Or anything else?
“
some progress…
Now it seems to be clean, finally!
After I got it back to the garage, I put some motor oil to each cylinder and turned the engine round for few times.
I also took the oil pan off and aimed couple of heater fans blowing warm air for it for the next 24 hours… So it will dry up 100% !
Hi folks,
Any tips how to check the clutch? I think I need some measurement for clutch lining thickness etc. ?
Also, what kind of oil should I use in the engine?
Mineral.. ?
Finally, after few hours of struggle, we got the painted engine back into car!!
I used new 1936 Ford rubber motor mounts that fit perfectly!
One more…
By the way, clutch throw out bearing # N1171 Oilite or SKF
Mika…..I recently did the brakes on my 1934 840A. The front drums come off easily, but the rear drums are on a taper and are extreemly difficult to remove. I found a wheel puller that finally did the job. If you are having trouble I can send you a picture of the puller, or would loan it to you if you need to borrow it.
Hi Richard!
Thanks for the offer, but I do have a access to such heavy duty puller. It’s used also when removing 1950’s-1960’s Imperial rear brake drums.
I just used the puller days before yesterday to remove 1956 Imperial Limousines brake drums.
But a question related to the brakes:
I have never opened mechanical brakes, so are there any other “possible worn” parts than the brake shoes?
I think the wheel bearings and seals might be worth of checking out?
I know that when I press my brake pedal, nothing happens…
Hi Mika,
There will be no action or movement of the brake actuators when the brake pedal is pushed, unless the car (driveshaft) is MOVING. The brake pedal is merely a “switch” that turns the power brakes on, driven by the internal clutch in the power brake unit behind the tranny. The emergency brake lever, however, should pull the cables on and actuate the brakes when the car is both moving and at rest. The full Stewart-Warner power brake brochure is reprinted in PASB 74-1, and a short P-A publication explanation is in ARROW 66-2.
Cheers,
Bob Jacobsen
Hi Bob,
thanks for the information! That explains a lot 
I’ll have still work to do before I can start up the engine.
I need to get the oil filter assembly and redo the radiator. I think I’m good to go after that.
A little update: Chris was kind enough to sell me his findings: 2 perfect parking light lenses! Just got them today!
Thanks!
My water pump has also been done in machine shop. It has not been upgraded for modern bearing. I heard that they use similar waterpump construction and bearings in boat engines.
Anyone have a idea where I could look for oil pressure hose for oil pressure gauge?