32 Model 54 Radiator Removal

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  • #406126

    Just wanted to add that the car is much more beautiful in person than in the pictures.

    #406128

    This is like peeling an onion. Layer by layer produces a lot of tears.

    Here are the intake valves. This is what happens when you run a car on really old gas. The intake ports look worse than this. I’ll try to get a decent photo of one of those.

    #406129

    Here are the exhaust valves. They look pretty decent and have a fair amount of meat on them.

    #406130

    Pulled the fuel pump off and found heavy brazing on the pump arm. I’m not even sure it’s the right pump. It had been bypassed by an electric pump so I don’t expect much when I take it apart.

    #406131

    Here are intake ports #2 on the left and #1 on the right.

    TOMORROW I drop the pan to check the rod bearings.

    #406133

    Cylinders 1, 5 and 8 were oil burners?

    #406134

    Wishing you best of luck when you drop the pan. My Club Brougham ran great and was super quiet with great oil pressure. Pulled the number one rod cap and saw the Babbitt was almost gone. Ended up freshening up the entire engine. A lot of work but it’s good for another few decades now and I have no concerns.

    Can’t tell from the picture but the original fuel pumps are very soft and prone to warping. Check with a straight edge on all surfaces. When warped they will always leak.

    If the carb Ismaili original be very very careful they are pot metal and can break easily…Big dollars to replace.

    #406135

    I really hate autocorrect…. should say “ if the carb is original “ not Ismailia …

    #406139

    Hi Bill,

    i’m inclined to think that the heavy deposits on intake valves is from oil being drawn up the intake valve guides. And from looking at the oil-washed-clean edges of the piston crowns, the engine has either worn or unseated rings..

    This also means it probabbly had plenty of crankcase pressure and blow-by.. So I’m betting your air cleaner assembly and the inside of the throat of the carb and inside of the intake manifold are coated in oil..

    It will be interesting to see the rings and ring gaps..

    i’m keeping my fingers crossed for you and the rod bearings..

    Greg

    #406149

    Rod bearings look fine to me. There is no taper in the bores at all and there is still cross-hatch visible from the honing when the engine was rebuilt. The rings look fine too.

    Tomorrow I do a simple water check on the block. So far, things look better than I expected.

    Bill

    #406153

    Did you remove a few rings and put them in the cylinder bore? and check the ring gap? With virtually no wear on the cylinder bore, the ring gap should be around .016- .020″

    Greg Long.”

    #406154

    Umm, no Greg, I didn’t. Contact me when you get to the Winter meet and we can talk about a ring set from Total Seal.

    Here’s the other end of the piston from #1.

    Bill

    #406162

    This is a bit like peeling an onion. Each time I peel back a layer I get more tears.

    I pulled off the water jacket. FORTUNATELY all the bolts came out with no problem. What a mess!

    #406163

    Here’s the cover.

    #406166

    Egge Pistons…….throw them in the trash and order a set of Ross or Aries. Egge is now out of the piston business…….gee I wonder why? Ask the all the people with broken pistons and ruined engines why? Don’t be tempted to run those junk cans…… figure in the cost of a head gasket, time, finding a new set of rings for the old pistons, and a new set will not be that much more……….would you like names of people who have had multiple piston failure after they were replaced? For years I have been ranting and raving on the JUNK they sell…….pistons, valves, you name it.

    #406168

    I’m one of those guys on the Egge pistons, they seemed to work OK back in the 70s and 80s, now as Ed states they are junk. I let my engine guy talk me into Egge on my ’31 about 15 years ago. One piston lasted all of about 10 miles after rebuild.

    Arias makes a great piston, too pretty to hide in an engine bore. I have a set for a 1910 Buick Model 16 sitting on my shelf, getting ready to go into the jugs. I’ve not tried the Ross.

    #406169

    Ed, these EGGE pistons are 30 years old. Think that this car sat a lot?

    I must be on the lunatic fringe. I’ve been using Egge pistons since 1992 on three different cars and have never had a failure. Maybe I don’t drive my cars hard enough?

    Now, Egge’s stainless exhaust valves are a different matter. Nuff said.

    #406170

    I had Egge piston failure for the first time in my car in 1988, along with a bunch of other people………I wouldn’t run them for any reason. I just did a V-12 Packard over in the last year……..it had four bad pistons and three sets of cracked rings…………. don’t wast you time, or risk you motor. Ask John about the last five engines he did over for people…….more than 2/3 of his work is do overs from other shops when it comes to engine builds………..and you can guess why………… everyone tries to cheap out on parts…….fact is a custom set of Aries or Ross is not usually more than two or three hundred dollars more for a set of twelve. Want to know how much it costs to replace a block in a Packard twelve?

    #406171

    Gotta love the Egge piston warrantee Ill send you a new piston………. gee thanks, more junk for my 60K motor that needs everything done again………nope…….

    #406172

    Egge quality took a major hit when the original owners sold the company.

    Back in the 70’s they made some pistons for our Rickenbacker that are still in the car even after a rebuild.

    They list Rickenbacker pistons in their catalog because they made them for our car way back when.

    But I wouldn’t trust them at all anymore.

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