836 Starter/Generator rebuild

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  • July 18, 2013 at 3:59 pm #390831
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    I am in the process of rebuilding my starter and generator.

    If there is any interest, I was going to keep a log of part #’s, sources and procedures and post occasionally.

    If not I won’t bore everyone. Please let me know.

    I have included an “exploded”” photo.

    Bill”

    July 18, 2013 at 5:33 pm #396040
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    I would be interested as I want to rebuild a 6v convertible top motor.

    July 18, 2013 at 10:32 pm #396041
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    Bill,

    By all means, keep us posted. I’ll enter the data into the PAS Parts and Services Directory so that the info will be available to all members.

    Great project!

    Chris

    July 18, 2013 at 10:51 pm #396042
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    I have a cranky starter motor and would be very interested in your

    findings.

    July 19, 2013 at 1:26 am #396045
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    Thank you Bill for your thoughtfulness! Jak.

    July 19, 2013 at 12:13 pm #396047
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    One of the most difficult and important proceedures in restoring these devices is getting the field windings reassembled tight enough. The torque needs to be set so high on the bolts that you need a special device to tighten them. You may not be able to to do this by the usual hand methods.

    July 24, 2013 at 3:57 pm #412345
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    Bill makes a good point. You don’t want to use heat to remove the field coil shoe screws as it might affect the coils. If possible I recommend testing the coils for continuity and make sure they are not grounded to the case. If everything tests ok, then leave them alone.

    In my case, the amount of rust in the case was too severe to not remove them. I first tried a hand held impact driver, the one you hit with a hammer and the blow creates rotation. This failed to move anything. I then center drilled the screw with a 1/4″ bit. Don’t drill in more than 1/2″ or you might hit the armature. That relieved enough pressure to back them out. Word of caution, if you go this route be sure you have new screws to replace them with. They can be hard to find.

    Since it requires a lot of force to remove the screws it should take a lot of force to replace them. The shoes really need to seat the field coils as snug against the case and you will not be able to generate sufficient force with a hand held screwdriver and I don’t like the impact tool as I have chipped some bits in the past.

    To solve this problem, I built a tool similar to the original with a 3/8 square shank screwdriver, a 3/8 square drive machinist’s wrench and a drill press.

    First I cut off the screwdriver shank from the handle. Then I slipped 2 of the 3/8 machinist’s wrenches over the shaft, 180 degrees apart.

    (see below)

    July 24, 2013 at 4:05 pm #396055
    Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.

    To continue, I then chuck the shaft in my drill press, bolt a steel channel to the base to hold the case. I then insert the blade in the screw and have my engineering assistant (wife) hold pressure down on the quill and then turn the blade with the two handles.

    Caution, be sure to grind the tip of the blade down so that you get full contact with the sides of the screw. You want no clearance.

    If this doesn’t work email me and I will give you the name of a good starter shop.

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