Carb finish

Home Page Forums Engine Carb finish

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
  • #389960

    I am rebuilding the UU2 carb on my 29. There is a nice black patina on the aluminum or diecast body of the carb. Is the finish supposed to be black or should I bead blast it to make it bright and shinny? Also what is the correct finish on the iron base? I am thinking that should be black.
    Thanks for your help


    I have an original Pierce-Arrow ad piece showing the engine colors for the same engine as yours but for 1930. The head is black, the block is blue-gray, oil galleys are chrome with ‘Pierce’ and an arrow through it, both manifolds black, and your carb is ‘brass’ colored ( anodized, painted, or plated)! I have restored my 1930 using these same colors. No judge has seen it yet. I may not survive.


    Thanks Bill. Do you know the length of the PA decals that are on the oil galley covers? I see some decals on eBay but I/m not sure if they are the correct size.


    Hi Cal,

    The decals for the side cover plates over the valve train are about 4" long. PAS Member Larry Sorcher sells these very reasonably. He is listed in the PAS Roster and the PAS Parts and Services Directory. CCCA also sells these decals and they, too, are listed in the Parts and Services Directory. You may want to look into either of these sources.

    Chrome plated valve cover plates were optional, and are a nice accent under the hood if one chooses to do so.

    For what it is worth, not to disagree with Bill, but my carburetor on my ’31 is black paint on the upper half of the carburetor, where the butterfly valves are, and plain grey die-cast on the lower half, the air horn, etc. I have seen several UU2/UUR-2 carburetors finished in this manner. I have not seen one that is "brass" finished or yellow chromated.

    I can send you a digital picture of my carburetor if that would be helpful.

    Also, the Pierce Arrow Service Bulletins, specifically number 75-4 has color recommendations for under the hood (as well as factory body paint schemes). These are available from the Editor in hardcopy, or are reproduced on the CD’s sold to members by the Society.

    Happy Motoring,

    Chris Diekman


    The decals you are looking for are also available through Roy Judd. His are correct in every way and are Mylar, and take the heat well. He has only a few left. See also his offering on Ebay.


    Judd’s decals are approx. 4" x 7/8". They peal off the backing and stick with their own adhesive. Not a water based decal.


    For anybody who cares about the spine-tingling story, history and definition of the oil valley/air cleaner transfers; go to the blog. you may need to add http://
    This might clear up alot of the rumors, mis-information, profligated by a few less-than informed folks. Also, the vendor list might be corrected, finally.


    I was unable to find the mentioned website. Please help.


    IT is not a website. It is a blog–that contains numerous articles, including tail light specifications, the fascinating dinnerplate saga—and the TRUE incredible, spine-tingling adventure of the FIRST ever Pierce MYLAR transfer production!!!! GO to the BLOG–
    you may need the HYPERTEXTRANSMISSIONPROTOCAL, depending on your own IP server.


    I found it. Type the address in just like Quentin listed it without the www.
    Makes for interesting reading.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.