Carb. I.D. Needed please

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  • #392166

    We have a 29 Model 133. Does anyone know the make of the carb in the picture attached?

    Thanks in advane.

    #405559

    we need an edit button

    #405560

    The correct carburetor for all ’29s is a Stromberg UU-2 which is what this appears to be. You’ll want to verify the jet plug size (main jet) which is visible on the lower right side of the float bowl. There are two hex heads with screw slots and the jet size is marked on the head. For PA it should be .046. Smaller jet sizes were used on other makes and usually indicate a small venturi size which would not be good for a Pierce.

    Are you having trouble with this one?

    Bill

    #405563

    There are no less than five different UU-2 Carburator castings, with various combinations that make up a very complicated choice of possibilities. More often than not, the carburetor on a car is not correct due to swap outs and modifications done over the years. Member zjohn Cislak makes countless parts for all Stromberg carburetors. He is the go to expert on these units. Look him up in the directory, he will be happy to help you out. Good luck, Es

    #405590

    I can read UU-2 on the top but the paint has everything else covered. Gas pours out as if the float is stuck or bad or the needle seat is bad or blocked by debris.

    #405591

    It’s rare for these carbs to dump fuel, if your running an electric pump, it has too much pressure. Over pressure can cause a big fire……..you need to resolve this issue before you drive the car. Keep a fire extinguisher close by at all times.

    #405593

    Hi Chester.

    The items you mention are certainly the most obvious probable problems causing the float bowl to overflow..

    Another on is the brass float can develop a crack and fill with gasoline and sink..

    Once the carburetor is removed, the top can be removed and the inside of the float bowl inspected.

    If you suspect debris in the fuel, you might, possibly be able to wash it out by removing the fuel inlet line and putting the plastic straw on a can of spray carb cleaner into the fuel inlet and spray to wash any loose stuff out of the inlet to the needle/seat.

    Greg Long

    #405599

    Thanks all. Yes the previous owner did install an electric fuel pump. Car ran fine when we 1st got it then this problem just started.

    #405600

    The electric pump that I use to prime the bowl on my ’29 puts out anywhere from 6 -8 lbs of pressure.

    Too much for the UU-2 to handle so there is a pressure regulator hidden along the frame near the firewall.

    The electric pump is just there to prime the bowl when the car has been sitting and the car runs on the mechanical pump just fine once there is gas in the carb.

    #405603

    Gents,

    As you ALL likely know, a continuously running electric fuel pump can be disastrous on an vintage vehicle if there is a fire.

    It just keeps pumping gas and the vehicle just keeps burning.

    To play off of Craig’s comment, use the electric pump to get the engine primed and running and then shut it off to minimize conflagration if there is a fire.

    My Uncle Joe, the previous owner of my Series 80, always talked about wanting an electric fuel pump on the Series 80.

    However, it does not need it to run beautifully, and I am fine with “hand priming”” the car.

    Pouring gas into the vacuum tank adds a bit of intrigue / mystique to owning a Pierce-Arrow with a vacuum fed carburetor.

    Peter”

    #405604

    The electric pump on my ’29 is only run for less than a minute just to get fuel into the float bowl since I drain the carb if the car will not be stated again within the next few days.

    Once there is fuel in the carb, the car starts and runs using the original AC fuel pump mounted on the engine.

    The original fuel pump pulls through the electric pump and regulator with no issues, even while on the freeway the car never starves for fuel.

    #405605

    Hi Chester.

    Does your car still have a functioning original mechanical fuel pump?

    If so, is there is a switch somewhere that controls the use of the electric pump?

    And is it possible that instead of being used to only prime your carburetor prior to starting the engine, that

    the electric pump is on full time, and is causing the flooding of the carb’s float bowl?

    If you have a functioning mechanical fuel pump. turn off the electrical pump and see if the engine runs correctly.

    If you can’t find a switch for the electric pump.. Just remove the wire from the pump or the ignition switch.

    Let us know what your find out..

    Greg Long

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