miss

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Robert i agree its set up for one coil. so i give up some dwell time not a big deal to me but it should hit on all 8

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

James the one on Ebay looks way too short to fit my engine

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

There is an extension shaft that fits between the distributor and the top of the oil pump. It doesn’t look like the auction includes it. The 668E distributor is the correct one for all ’29s

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Eric, just to help clarify, is your distributor rub block 4 lobe or 8?

Cheers-John

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

8 lobes

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Cislak will have the drive shaft available also.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

ok so i pulled the Distributor out and disassembled it and found the shaft was loose. So i chucked it up in the lathe and bored the cast iron housing out the fit a larger bushing. Reassembled set points installed and cars runs like a top!

have lots of photos will post as i have time

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Good to hear.

Guess all that slop meant the points weren’t opening and closing as they should.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

That’s a great lesson for all of us. Thanks Eric.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Nice work, Eric. What make and model is the distributor you are using?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

661 c

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Best lesson…….keep the car stock. I would still at least buy the parts to make the car correct. That way you have them in hand. Many people will not consider a car that’s modified or has wrong components. Having hem on the shelf is always a good idea.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Buy the original parts while they are available, before they disappear.

eBay was once flooded with Series 80/81 parts, but now they are very difficult to find anywhere.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I agree with Peter and Ed, there was a time when you could find a UU2 carb at almost any old car swap meet.

Wish I had picked up a half dozen back then since they are like hen’s teeth now.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Like honest politicians!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

With an 8 lobe cam, one set of points is correct. How much play is there in the distributor shaft?

If you turn the engine until the points are open, the point block on a cam lobe. and then move the cam and shaft back and forth, you can see if the wear is enough to allow the points to not open, or not close.

If you think that the wear / slop in the shaft is great enough that the points might not open for some cylinders, as a ‘proof of idea’. Set the points with a .005″ wider gap, this ought to get the points to open for all 8 cylinders. If not, then you likely have bad wires in the wiring tube.

Possible/probable causes of a miss;

Fouled spark plug; flooded from too much fuel, too much oil, or cartooned up from use

Spark plug wiring cracked and the arc jumping inside the wiring tube, not at the spark plug

Distributor cap has a crack, or is dirty and the dirt is conducting the spark to the distributor body.

Low compression on the missing cylinders.

Bad manifold gasket, allowing air into the port, leaning out the mixture.

Worn distributor shaft [discussed above]

Modern carbon-core spark plug wires: These engines need copper-wire core spark plug wires.

Several more, but this will get you heading in the right direction.

Greg Long

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg I do drivabilty on new cars for a living. i just don’t have much depth of knowledge on old points system, i put an inline spark test on the coil wire between the coil and distributor. then we started the engine and videoed the tester. when we slowed the video down you could see the broken rhythm of the spark. so i pulled the dist and pulled it completely apart. That is when i found out just how bad the bushing were. so i drove out the old ones and bored the housing out in the lathe and pressed in a new bushings.the shaft was only worn about .002 so now i have about .005 shaft movement.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Eric, Your car makes the third Pierce I have seen with this distributor. It is a perfect drop in fit. That said, I drove one on tour and it performed just fine. If you ever need parts for it, it’s from a 1932 Pontiac Model 302. I think the real reason we see them in Pierce is they were automatic advance distributors. The advance curve is a little difference than the Pierce. The advance starts at 4.5 degrees, Pierce is at 6 degrees. Max advance is 27 degrees. Pierce is 20 degrees. both at 2600 rpms. Point gap is also narrower at .013-.017. This is why our experts were baffled by your original post as it is not Pierce but must of been a “hotrod”” idea back in the day. Karl”

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Just for kicks, I looked up the total production of Pontiac V8 for 1932, it was 6200+ units. The alternate 6 cylinder was 39,000.

I bet only a few are around today.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I have a sun Distributor machine and was thinking i should set it up and set the advance curve i may have specs for a 32 pontiac. is there ANY advance weights in the right Distributor?

[Author]

Posts