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Does anyone have a contact for purchasing valves for a series 80-81?
Egge sells stainless steel valves for the s80/81.
562-945-3419
If they don’t have them in stock, they will have some made within a month or so
Greg Long
Charles,
If you want a set of original Series 80 valves, be in touch, as I may have a set.
All are in good condition, but 91-years-old.
Peter
Charles,
I have a spare Series 80 motor that I may be interested in selling.
Ken
All,
Thanks for the responses. I am in the middle of rebuilding my engine. My valves aren’t in too bad of shape but I thought since I have it apart I may as well replace if the price is right. I am having hardened seats installed and of course grinding the existing Valves. Peter if your original valves are in good shape I would be interested. You can give me a call anytime on my cell 218/522-1371 to discuss. Ken, I don’t think I am interested in your spare at this time but appreciate the offer.
Eve valves have a long and sad history of being made in China of poor material. I have not used their series 80 valves, but from thirty years of history I would never use them. See,s their Pistons are failing again. I have seen three motors with fractured Pistons in the last six months. You get what you pay for. Use Aries or Ross.
My experience with Egge Valves for the Series 80 engine have been without issue.
Charles, DO NOT install hardened seats unless the old seats in the block are in too bad of condition to grind new seats on them.. The hard seats are NOT needed in Series 80 engines, and often do not conduct heat from the exhaust valves as well as the original seats cut into the cast iron head. The old iron block can develop cracks, or the seats can come loose. If the original seats can be used, you are much better off.
Original intake valves can be reused, but I would not reuse the old exhaust valves, they have been through a lot of hard use, and modern SS valves hold up better than the old types of steel.
The machine work on the valves is done at Egge’s machine shop in Southern California. I do not know if their SS valve blanks are a product of China or not.. I’ve not had ANY issues with the valve materials, only with some valve keeper slots cut incorrectly on some 8cylinder Pierce Arrow valves.
Greg Long
Thanks for the heads up. My valve seats are in good shape so I will just have them ground and get new valves.
I agree with Greg that one should never install valve seats unless one is damaged. Too often people replace them because the machine shop says you need hard seats. You do not. They just cause problems and many come out over time. Edge products change and vary over time. We were manufacturing valves and still do of Pierce eights and twelves. Several years ago we were contacted by a company……..I won’t say which one…… and they wanted a finished stainless valve delivered to them in the, and I quote……..two to three dollar range. Can’t be done without junk material and poor workmanship. We only sell valves with new guides. We use German diesel valve blanks, CNC them. We hold our machining much tighter than most. And are cutters are sharp. You get what you pay for. Recently we had a well known engine shop that has done countless early T head motors call us for valves, after a short conversation thy told us they had never needed to replace a set in the past, they just welded them and faced them……….there is a lot of poor workmanship out there, parts and labor. Currently I know of no less than five club members with bad newly rebuilt motors. All with less than two hundred miles on them. Take your time and do thing right, it’s more difficult and expensive, but your car will run. Exhaust temperatures are higher today with E-10 fuel, be sure you use modern alloy valves on the exhaust. We use the same material for both intake and exhaust, and yes you need to replace the valve springs……..but that’s another story.