PAS member Malcolm Sloane in Australia is looking for the following items for his 1926 Series 80 Runabout: gasoline gauge or reproduction; aluminum strips on which the top rests when down; fixtures on the side of the body on which the convertible top bows rest when the top is down. Contact Mr. Sloan at [email protected]. Other contact information is in the PAS Roster.
Hello Mr Sloane,
I am responding to your letter sent to the PAS regarding your 1926 Series 80 runabout.
The page from a salesman’s data book you used to point out the parts you need is a very good idea. The drawings are of a 1925 Series 80. Your arrow and note regarding the gas gauge are to the gas gauge in that 1925 drawing. I want to make sure that your car has it’s gas gauge on the right side of the car, and the gauge is part of the ‘Reserve-Supply’ fuel lever and gauge assembly.
In 1925, the fuel gauge, the ‘Reserve-Supply’ valve and lever and the filler neck and gas tank cap are all separate, and in three different locations on the fuel tank.
In 1926, all the items were combined into one unit, and mounted on the right side of the tank, along with the filler neck and gas cap.
It seems that SOME 1926 cars were made with the 1925 design gas tank and frame member that covers the fuel tank.
OK, so now to the fuel gauge itself: they are very rate, because they usually fell apart when someone attempts to remove the gauge from the gas tank. The gauge and gauge/reserve assembly is made of potmetal, and it swells and splits and crumbles with age.
There were a batch of reproduction ’26-’27 gauges made about 25 years ago, but they are all gone, and in use on cars. There has been some talk about making another batch of reproductions, but they would be very expensive, probably $1500-$1800 USD. There are a LOT of parts in the assembly, and they all have to look right, fit right, not leak fuel or air, and many need to be nickel plated, and the fuel gauge face has to be painted. It is a big task to make.
If you have an existing gauge in place, do not attempt to remove it, just let it be. It will fill the hole in the fuel tank. Use a dip stick to check fuel level in the tank.
Let me know which version of fuel tank and fuel gauge you have in your car, so I know what to keep looking for. I go to many parts swap meets every year, and would buy ANY Pierce fuel gauge I discover.
In the States we call the cover over the engine the ‘Hood’, I think your term might be ‘Bonnet’ ?.
The folding canvas and bows over the passengers we call a ‘top’ or ‘convertible top’. I point this out so we can communicate clearly, without misunderstandings.
The Series 80 convertible top bows, rest on a bracket that is bolted through the wood framework behind the door. The support has a half-round rest, sort of like your hand held out with your palm up, holding a part in your palm. The support has two slots to feed a leather belt through, which is then fastened around the top bows, keeping the top held in the down position. Without the leather belt, the top and inflate with air and open up like a parachute, with disastrous results. The inside or top surface of the support has a piece of leather with matching slots, to protect the bows and top material from abrasion.
These top-bow supports are also not commonly found, but since they are made of steel, they can be fabricated fairly easily. Right now I do not know of any available. I need two for my ’25 touring car.
The strips on the top of the ‘turtle deck’, which the top material rests on when the top is folded down, were made of pot metal, and they too often fell apart. I have seen many cars with the strips made of aluminum, highly polished, they look very good. These can also be fabricated fairly easily, from strips of aluminum bar, ground or filed to round the ends and upper edges, then carefully drilled from below, making sure that the hole does not go too deep and come up through the top of the strip. the holes can then be threaded, and small screws or bolts used to fasten the strips to the ‘turtle-deck’ of the body.
So, unfortunately, I do not have or know of any of the pieces you need for your car. If I do find some, or learn of someone reproducing the parts I will contact you.
If you do not already have a copy, I’d highly suggest getting a copy of the Series 80 parts manual from the AACA library in Hershey Pa. Get just the front half of the parts manual, because this is the part with the VERY GOOD illustrations of the parts on your car. The last portion of the parts manual is a listing of the Pierce Arrow part numbers, which are all obsolete, and your money is wasted buying these lists.
Hope this helps.