reluctance of generator to charge upon spring startup

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

every year, it seems I have to drive farther and farther before the generator begins to charge. Ed Minnie says to move the third brush a little, Bob Sands says the commutator may be dirty. Any other opinions about this?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Sell me the car for 15 cents on the dollar. Interestingly, my 32 did the same thing this year. It took 3 miles before it started to charge. Check battery voltage…..it should be 6.1 or so.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It may be worth spraying it with a bit of electronic contact cleaner before you start it in the Spring. Before you put it away in the fall, you may want to do the same thing, and then cover the access or cooling slots in the generator with a plastic bag or something that will keep the dust away from the commutator and brushes. That would help keep the dust out of the generator during its winter hibernation…

I worked in a TV repair shop in the 70’s, and we spent a LOT of time and contact cleaner spray cleaning the contacts on the rotary tuners in TV’s of the era. Commutators are no different, they just collect more grease and dust.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Even by liberally spraying the commutator and brushes, any overspray would not hurt anything else?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Due to my lack of knowledge about invisible things (electricity) I always check and clean any ground in the circuit. Sitting can let corrosion start.

I don’t think your car has a cut out. They were a common problem on my Model A until I went the diode route.

Here is some data I got off of restorecarsclassifieds.com

TWELVE, MODELS 1602, 3 (1936); 1702, 3 (1937)

OWEN-DYNETO STARTER & GENERATOR, DELCO-REMY IGNITION PIERCE ARROW

GENERATOR:—Model CO-1309. Armature No. 23691.

Air-cooled. Third brush control type with Battery

Charge Regulator (two-step charging rate).

Charging Rate Adjustment—Third brush shifted

through rack-and-pinion control by slotted adjusting

screw in commutator end plate. To adjust, turn

adjusting screw to right or clockwise to increase,

and to left or counter-clockwise to decrease charging

rate.

Maximum Charging Rate—32 amperes (cold), 8.0

volts, 1900 RPM., 25-30 MP.H.

Performance Data—Regulator Inoperative

Hot

Amps Volts RPM.

0 7.3 625

5 7.5 700

10 7.7 800

15 7.9 930

20 8.0 1100

25 8.0 1380

28 8.0 2000

Cold

Amps Volts RPM.

0 7.0. 580

5 …_ 7.2 630

10 7.5 700

15 7.7 _ 790

20 7.9 910

25 8.0 1080

30 8.0. 1380

32 8.0 1900

Rotation—Counter-clockwise at commutator end.

Brush Spring Tension—20-22 ozs. (main), 12-14 ozs.

(third).

Field Current,—3.5-3.7 amperes at 6.0 volts.

Motoring Current—16.7-18 amperes at 6.0 volts (Y2 ampere more if relay and regulator in circuit).

Field Fuse—5 ampere capacity in knurled plug in

side of regulator case.

Removal:—Generator cradle mounted on left front of

engine with fan belt drive (double Vee belt). To remove,

slack off drive belt, disconnect water pump

drive coupling, loosen mounting clamp band.

Belt Adjustment:—To adjust, loosen clamp bolt on

fan bracket, turn eccentric shaft spindle untU 10 lb.

puU on belt midway between puUeys causes 1″ deflection,

tighten clamp bolt. Additional range of

adjustment secured by taking bracket off engine

and moving bracket up until mounting bolts engage

lower holes.

CONTROL UNIT (RELAY-REGULATOR):—Mod. 40300.

Consists of Cutout Relay and Battery Charge Regulator

in a single case on the generator field frame.

See article in Electrical Equipment Section for

complete data on Battery Charge Regulator.

Cutout Relay

Cuts In—6.8-7.2 volts, 600 RPM., 8 MP.H.

Cats Oat—0-2.5 amperes discharge current.

Contact Gap—.030-.032″.

Air Gap—.020-.025″ with contacts closed.

Battery Charge Regulator

Setting—8.2 volts (cold), 7.8 volts (hot)—contact

opening point.

Regulator Resistance—1.

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=3354

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

It shouldn’t do any harm. This type of spray is even used on sensitive electronic circuit boards with micro thin insulation and gold foil. Like everything, common sense is king.

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Sometimes if you adjust the third brush 1/2 turn and put it back it will start to charge. The 36 uses a cut out & regulator in one unit. They usually work well and are hard to find if you damage it. You can also put modern electronics in them and they will be good for ever.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

If you are talking about the 1931 – close the cutout relay and see if it starts charging. Just pull off the cover and push it closed when the engine is idled up a bit Have someone watch the ammeter while you do it

Greg

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Tony, I would remove the cover over the brush assemblies, using your finger, a small screwdriver, or even a pair of needle nose pliers, pull out on each brush or brush holder, I’m not sure on your ’36 which it has..

My experiences are that the brushes get stuck in their guilds and holders. Sometimes just a pull and push will free up the brush, and it will then make firm contact with the commutator.

The surface of the commutator should not have any oil or grease on it.. Tuner cleaner, brake clean or even carb cleaner will work to wash the grease and oil off the commutator.

I would not be concerned about the cleaner damaging anything except any excess on painted surfaces should be wiped up, not left on the paint.

Greg Long.

[Author]

Posts