Starting a 1920s Pierce Arrow car.

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  • #392435

    Hi all,

    This may seem like a mundane request, yet I have heard of several people having problems with their cars while starting.

    Would someone describe or, even better, make a video on how to correctly start a 1920s Pierce Arrow car? Not truly interested in the crank start, but if you include that too, so much the better.

    Thanks to you all. Rick

    #407763

    Rich, have you obtained a copy of the ’29 owner’s manual?

    It gives detailed instructions on how to start your 133.

    Remember, the ’29 is completely different than the Series 80’s before them.

    #413487

    The ’20’s (up to ’28) Series 33/36 also have a very different starting procedure. Go to the “Library” tab on the PAS website, enter the year and model of your car, and the list of docs in the Library comes up. The Owners Manual is downloadable in a pdf. It has a section on starting. Hopefully some of the 8 cyl owners will weigh in with some of the “tricks” for starting your car.

    Dave

    #407905

    The procedure I use for my ’29 is as follows –

    1. Move Spark Advance to full Retard position

    2. Pull choke almost fully out

    3. Move hand Throttle lever towards the open position just a little

    4. Move ignition switch to the ‘On’ position

    5. (this applies to mine) I turn on the electric pump to prime the carb with fuel

    6. Crank engine for 2 to 3 seconds – you can hear a difference when their is fuel in the carb while being choked

    7. Fully depress choke

    8. Crank engine a few seconds and it fires, immediately move Spark Advance to full Advance

    9. Keep running by adjusting hand Throttle or foot throttle

    10. Car should now idle on its own and you can pull back hand throttle as car warms a little

    #407906

    Cool! Thank you to everyone.

    #407907

    Nice outline Craig.

    #407908

    I had a ’29 for 20 years and we drove it everywhere. I differ a little from Craig’s procedure so remember that free advice is often worth what you paid for it.

    Here goes:

    The procedure I use for my ’29 is as follows –

    1. Move Spark Advance to full Retard position

    2. Pull choke fully out

    3. Move hand Throttle lever towards the open position just a little

    4. Move ignition switch to the ‘On’ position

    5. (this applies to mine as well) I turn on the electric pump to prime the carb with fuel

    6. Crank engine a for about four seconds or until it fires, immediately move choke to half position.

    7. Advance the spark to full advance.

    8. Readjust choke to get smooth running. The position will change as it warms up

    9. Keep running by adjusting hand Throttle or foot throttle

    10. Car should now idle on its own and you can pull back hand throttle as car warms a little

    #407910

    Our Pierce, in the family for over 50 years, never likes the choke to be on after the initial prime with almost full choke.

    Carb will drip gas and it will be real hard to start if choke is left open for more than a few seconds on the first few engine rotations.

    Our Rickenbacker is more like Bill’s Pierce where it needs to be started with full choke and as soon as it fires you go to about half choke and slowly remove the choke as it warms.

    There are about 7 pre-war cars in the family and they all take a little bit different steps to get started.

    I’ve often wondered how people with as many cars as Jay Leno or Ernie Follis has how they remember the start procedure for each one.

    I’d imagine you’d have to write down notes on each one and keep them in the door flap for reference.

    #413488

    I was thinking about this question, and wonder in this case if the question would better be “starting the car for the first time after an engine rebuild”.

    In that case, I’d do one of two things.

    Find an old car guy who has a rig that can pressurize oil system before trying to start (that’s how my machine shop guy does it).

    Failing that, take the spark plugs out and turn engine over with starter, moving some oil around inside of engine.

    THEN do the starting….

    A “dry” engine can suffer a lot of wear in that first little bit before oil pressure comes up….

    #407913

    Richard,

    I concur with David’s suggestion.

    Also, there is “Break-in Oil”” available.

    Peter”

    http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/royal-purple-break-in-oil/

    #407917

    Currently I am maintaining 18 pre war car on the road, keeping them sorted and ready to drive on at all times. Several are very similar to each other, and every one starts and warms up differently. Car are like people they have their quirks and own personality traits. Also, depending on how long the sit, they start different. If started weekly or more often, almost all fire off very fast three to six weeks, and it is often another story. I do cheat in one way…….I use modern special fuel with a six year shelf life. No carb or fuel pump problems. Ed

    #407919

    Ed, What is “modern special fuel””?

    Robert”

    #407921

    Richard,

    If it’s the 1st start, your machine shop may loan you their oil primer to fill the engine and prime it all at the same time. It would be to their benefit on the job. JimL

    #407923

    wow. This question resulted in many more responses than I expected. Thanks to you all. :)

    #407924

    I use VP Racing fuels. They have a special belnd for early cars, similar to the hi test back in the 60’s and early 70’s. It has a tank life of 6 years. No carb issues as all………no stabil or other additives needed. For car that seldom get out its fantastic, but its almost 9 bucks a gallon. A drain and fill with a run down the road would work well for most people. The cost is reasonable compared to service time and cost. It can be dangerous storing large amounts of fuel, caution is needed. We have a rather large tank like a construction company would have. Some gas stations and fuel shops sell it and you can drive up to the pump. Go to their web site and you can see all the fuel they offer.

    #407926
    #407929

    Richard,

    If this is a first time start I’m hoping that you used bearing assembly grease in all of the journals. This helps prevent scoring of the bearings during the first startup. I also crank the engine on the starter (plugs removed) until I see oil pressure on the gauge. Then I fire it up. I do the same cranking without plugs every Spring for that first startup after Winter storage.

    Bill

    #407930

    The mechanic has run the engine a few times already. I’m not sure what he did to prep it. The engine was rebuilt from the ground up.

    I was asking for my own knowledge for when the car comes home. I have never owned a car this old. Don’t want to break it or ruin something. :)

    #407949

    Oh Rick! The stress of it all! POSITIVE of course. ENJOY!

    Jak.

    #407958

    Lololol Jake. Sooo true! This car of mine is awesome, but frustration and expense…..wow! Lol

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