STICKY VALVE

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I NEED HELP IN FINDING A HEAD GASKET OR ANY OTHER ADVICE ON HOW TO UNFREEZE A STICKY VALVE

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Stan,

I am not that familiar with your engine, but I would think you would have access to the valve stem through the tappet gallery or manifolds.

With the manifolds off, you would have access to the top of the guide and valve stem. I would heat then spray the stem with Kroil, WD 40, PB Blaster, etc and try to work it up and down. If that didn’t work, I would try access through the tappet gallery and the penetrant soaking routine. If not, then the head would have to come off. Good luck.

PS. is this what your engine is like

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The head gasket for the series 33-36 is available from Olsons gasket, their info is in the parts and service directory.

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Hello Stan, I’ve had very good luck with freeing sticky valves, using a very similar procedure to the method described by Bill Lyons in his post above.

I will add that if you get a piece of small diameter copper tubing, 1/8″ or less, usually found from air-conditioning suppliers, you can bend the copper to make a spray nozzle for your favorite penetrating oil. I use ATF/Acetone in a 50/50 mix, in a hand pump trigger oil can, and use a short piece of rubber tubing to connect the oil can’s tip to the copper tube.

Remove both spark plugs for each cylinder, use a flexible light or flexible camera/borescope to look into each cylinder, turn the engine by hand to bring the valves open in each cylinder. Squirt liberal amounts of penetrant on the valve stems when the valve is up off it’s seat, and the stem is visible, or at least ‘feelable’ using the copper spray nozzle.

When you encounter a valve that will NOT drop back to it’s seat with just the valve spring pulling on it, you can VERY GENTLY push the valve back dow using a small prybar, or suitable screwdriver or a brake-adjusting spoon through the spark plug hole. Do NOT pry hard against the valve head, and do not pry on the edge of the valve head, only in the center of the valve head.

Most of the time, the dried, baked on oil residue on the valve stem and inside the valve guide will allow for a slow, steady push down on the valve head. After a few of these ‘assited’ valve motions, the valve will free up.

If you know for sure that the sticky valve is from dried/baked oil, using Brake-Clean or a spray Carburetor Cleaner on the stem will work faster, and penetrate better. But the stem needs to have at least ATF if not regular motor oil on it for proper lubrication before the engine is started and run again.

You did not mention in your original post if the valve is ‘frozen’ or stuck closed? In which case the engine will be stuck. or if the valve is sticking open? or occasionally sticking when you are driving it ??

If the valve is stuck, against it’s seat, resulting in a stuck engine, Then use the ATF/Acetone mix, anoint the valve head and seat area very well, then let it sit for a day or two. Removing the appropriate intake or exhaust manifold may be necessary to get to the underside of the valve head.

Hope this helps. PLEASE let us know more about how/why the valve is stuck, sticking, and what procedure you successfully used to free up the valve.. We all learn by sharing our experiences.

Greg Long

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Thanks for the responses. Ended up using all the suggestions: heat, Rust blaster, removed exhaust manifold. took almost 4 days. All is well. Runs like a sports car again.

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