Oh well, I gave it a shot.
I defer to Greg on this matter, but if you have an adjustment on the cap, try it.
If you have a cracked float, feel free to be in touch.
The way to check the float for leaks is to pull it and shake it.
Is should be empty, if not, OOPS!
Soldering them is a chore (and potentially dangerous – POP), which is why I bought up six (6) other Stromberg carbs, cheap, just for the floats.
If the float is loaded with fuel, you can pull it, let it sit around on a sunny window frame for a week or so and then either use Hirsch Fuel Tank Sealer (not that great without prepping the surface as you would the tank) or I was told, painting the surface with epoxy, which I was also told was gasoline resistant.
I have not had that problem in years (lucky me).
Also, I am told that the Classic Carb people out of Arizona, take the floats, cut off the top and bottom and then insert a piece of Nitrile, so no more leaking and you retain the correct top and bottom for proper fit in the float tank.
Greg and Peter,
Thank you for everything. I did run the Pierce back from the car show last weekend and it did not seem to leak like it did on the way to the show. When I say leak
it was more like moisture and a few drops on the Splash Apron. I could not get the adjustment on the Manifold to go over all the way to the left. It was how every set all the way over to the right before. I have it straight up and down now.
Hi Ken, it sounds like it was just being driven with the mixture very rich.
As for the manifold heat, be careful with the lever, it is bronze, you don’t want to break It !!.