Worm drive axle Reassembly

Home Page Forums Chassis Worm drive axle Reassembly

Viewing 14 posts - 41 through 54 (of 54 total)
  • Author
  • #412646

    Moving on to the axle tubes, there is a .004″ paper gasket between the diff and the axle tubes. I am going to use black RTV, just don’t tell anyone. At the wheel end are double oil seals. They look like they are trailer axle seals. (I have some on order and will verify the fit and part number when I get them.)

    The last piece is the axle retaining housing, which has a star shaped bolt pattern. I don’t have all the bearings yet, so I will just cover the disassembly now.

    On the outside there is a groove that houses a felt oil seal. They appear to be 3″ x 2.25″ x 3/8″, (I will verify once I get the ones I have on order). CAUTION DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE THIS SEAL OUT. It fits into the channel groove in the housing. Use a pick and pull towards the center. It should come right out.

    On the other side is a Timken 332 bearing cone. It is difficult to get to so I used the “run a weld bead around it” trick. It fell right out.

    This month marks a year of work on this project and I want to thank everyone for the help and encouragement. This would have been impossible without the society members and their knowledge, help and generosity.

    Prussian Blue is here, still waiting on dial indicator and I can close the adjustment issue. Axle shaft assembly is next then back in the car.

    Hopefully it will roll this time.


    If you haven’t seen it, to remove a bearing cone inside of a bore you can run a weld bead, either stick or MIG, along the inside bearing face. When the bead contracts the bearing will usually come out with little or no effort. I have had them fall out on their own. Just be sure you have a steady hand and don’t weld the housing or you will be having to do some grinding.


    Ok, I talked to George at Olcar Bearings and the felt seal(upper left in photo) that fits in the channel is 2 13/16″ x 2 5/32″ x 11/32″. I guess Pierce didn’t have any 1/8, 1/4 or 1/2″ marks on any of their rulers.


    To rebuild the front seal, I needed the Federal 450084 and a leather seal.

    I made a new seal using 4 oz (1/16″ or .063) Vegetable tanned leather. I got a remnant bag at my local Tandy Leather.

    The Vegetable tanned material has natural texture on the back and had a hard, smooth finish on the front. Once you get it good and wet, it become very pliable and can be shaped to fit if retained until it dries.

    I had to make a washer to start. I stapled the leather, hard side up, on a piece of wood. You could also use 2 sided tape I guess. I then used a piloted hole saw to cut the larger diameter, then switched to the smaller diameter. You can also use punches or diamond saws. I then soaked it until pliable.

    I pushed the washer over the output flange to form the ID, placed the spring over the lip that had been created and forced it, from the rear into the inside of the seal housing to get the final form. I held the rest of the material against the housing with a piece of pipe to make a right angle flange. I let it dry a couple days, removed the flange, inserted the 450084 seal (be sure to push it home as it helps retain the flange of the leather seal) and installed it in the diff case followed by the flange, washer castle nut and cotter pin.


    Here is the completed seal from the rear. The light greyish color on the ID is the leather and the red rim is the 450084 seal.


    And from the front. Grey at top is leather, black at bottom is rubber.


    Bravo Bill!!!

    Hope you inspire others to have a go!!—-Jak.


    Cleaning up a couple of issues, but first I wanted to thank everyone who participated in this project either with your physical or moral support, particularly Bob Jacobsen, or otherwise I would still have a non turning axle.

    It took some searching, but George at Olcar Bearing came up with the 4 rear seals. Victor 49034. They are metal/felt. Also fit Studes, I think. You need to soak them in the oil you are using in the rear end and then install them with the flange up. (See pointer)


    Here is the empty axle. You need to drive in the first seal until it bottoms out on the step machined in the bore, then install the next one, 1″ below the axle housing flange.”


    Here are the original seals installed. Note depth indicator. The project moves on, abet not as fast as Rick’s. Envy is a cruel master.


    I was placed in charge of keeping a collection of PA Service Bulletins from the ’60’s and found some additional information relative to this project.

    1. The worm wheel can be reversed to provide a totally unworn surface.

    2. Bearing preloads. The back to back bearings on the rear of the worm have

    a 5 inch-pound Max preload.

    3. No preload on the worm wheel bearings.

    Above is from Service Bulletin 1966 Issue 4


    Copies of that 66-4 Service Bulletin issue and most others are available to order on the website at “Back Issues””. That is a big reason why Society membership is essential for anyone owning or repairing a Pierce.



    I am really enjoying going thru the old bulletins. It is a great asset when trying to get or keep our cars running. I would recommend getting them.


    Dear Dave and Bill,

    I agree about the PASBs. I got the CD with all the old bulletins. I downloaded them to my computer and they are searchable on the PDFs. They have been extremely helpful when working on my car along with this web site and all the great fellow PAS members!


Viewing 14 posts - 41 through 54 (of 54 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.