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Peter,
The car number he gave is valid for a 1929 car (which the roster says is what he has). Check the 1929 list.
Dave
Eric,
Good luck on the search. I have been trying to research the ownership history of my 1928 Series 36. My car came from New York in 2000.
While at the Buffalo Meet in 2015, I went to the New York DMV to see if they had prior owner info beyond what I had. They informed me that yes, they did, but it is against the law for them to give out that information. California DMV is the same. It turns out there is a Federal law called the Driver Privacy Protection Act that makes it illegal for any state DMV to give out ownership information.
As Greg said, your best bet is probably to WRITE Bernie Weis. He was able to provide several of the prior owners of my car. Not all the way to the beginning, but back to the 30’s. With some research while in New York, I was able to contact the son of one prior owner, who it turned out restored the car. The son had photos his dad had taken of the car during restoration, and allowed me to make copies. The search has been an interesting adventure.
Greg, How did you come up with a 1932? That serial number comes up to a 1929 133. The PAS Roster also shows Eric’s car as a 1929.
Dave
It looks very similar to the late S33 / S36 distributor. Mine are Delco and the primary connections and cap clips are in a different location, otherwise pretty much the same. I have been told that DeJon distributors were also used on these cars.
Didn’t the Fleet Arrow trucks of the 20’s use the Dual Valve six engine?
This is the best photo I could get of mine.
Dave
Arndt,
Welcome to the Pierce-Arrow Society.
Looking at the photos on the Bonhams site, it looks like the car is a two wheel brake car. You should be able to see the brake drums behind the spokes (as you can on the rear wheels) and they are not visible on either front wheel in the photos. The engine photo shows a single distributor, so that indicates a later Series 33 car (if the engine is original to the car). Checking the actual number on the engine against the photo of the number plate would tell if it is the original engine. It is an unusual body style.
I would suggest you contact Bonhams, or the current owner if you can get that information, and see what you can find out about the car. The first thing to find out is does it run and drive well. Repairs to the driveline of these cars can be expensive and parts a challenge to find, particularly in Europe, although with some hunting they can be found. Also, is there any corrosion/rust or wood rot. None is visible in the photos. Try to drive the car before purchase. The car looks like it is mostly original and correct, or an old restoration. There are modern wires and modern coils under the hood.
The only Series 33’s currently listed the PAS database in Europe are both Runabouts, one in Germany and one in Denmark, so the car is not currently listed with PAS.
Good luck with the car.
Dave
Ken, Let me change my statement, LED bulbs including headlights, are available in both positive and negative ground from several suppliers. Good luck at the concours. We’ll be at Ironstone Concours Saturday. Dave
Ken,
This article will be reprinted in the next PASB with an updated source list. LED bulbs for positive ground cars are available. Dave
Kevin,
I believe your car has a hypoid differential and should take an Extreme Pressure, GL-4 type of gear oil. See “1603 Differential gear oil recommendations”” a few posts back for more info. I don’t believe that your differential has any “”yellow”” metals. Some 1933 models have a worm drive rear axle that has a brass bull gear. In that type of differential you should use a GL-1 or 2 equivalent oil that does not have the EP additives. Dave”
Chris,
The Sta-Lube Stu mentioned should work fine for you. Redline and Chevron (Caltex) also sell GL-4 Gear Oils. I have used Sta lube gear oil for many years in a variety of vehicles and never had a problem.
The main difference between GL-4 and 5 is the amount of Extreme Pressure additive (sulfur/phosphorus), which can be bad for yellow metals. I think I would stay away from the GL-4+/5 oil although I don’t think it would hurt your differential, but why take the chance. Most of the problems with GL-5 have been when it is used in a transmission that has brass synchro rings. It either causes corrosion of the brass, or the different friction characteristics cause poor shifting. Hypoid differentials such as yours require an EP type (such as GL-4) gear oil- Dave
Tony, there is a posting “2020 Winter Weekend-Williamsburg Virginia”” about 15 posts down the Message Board list that has the information. Dave
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My 1928 Series 36 has the same one that Robert shows in his photo. It is nickel plated brass.
Looking good Rich.
Pierce-Arrows at the ACD Museum.
The Pierce-Arrow parking area at the Hotel.
Peter, I wasn’t sure if you’d seen the video. I believe that Bill Morris took photos of all the cars as they came on the show field. I am sure the regular photo page will get posted. Here’s a photo of the Weis Award winner to tide you over.
Peter,
There is a link posted by Liz Horne on the Message Board that has a copy of the slide and video show presented at the banquet. It is under “2019 Pierce-Arrow Meet Video Link”, already a page or two back in the Message Board postings. A copy of the link is below.
Dave
Go to the “Library”” tab under “”Member Pages”” on the left side of the webpage and you can look up what year/model manual reprints are available from the AACA library. There is also information on how to order reprints from AACA.”
My browser (Firefox) gives the option using Password Manager to save logins. Once saved, all I have to do is click OK when the login window comes up. Internet Explorer and Edge also have a similar option.
Liz – Your link worked fine for me. Thanks for posting. Dave
and don’t forget the show…… a little more rain.
Glad to hear you all made it home OK. Sounds like a great trip.
