[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I spoke with one of Paul’s caregivers this morning. He is unable to take calls at this time

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Rosa,

The car has been transferred to your record. We show it as a 1930 Model A Phaeton.

Let us know if you are unable to find the wind wings.

Dave

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Rosa,

Your best bet is to contact John Cislak (see below).  He has lots of parts for ’30s era Pierce-Arrows. If he doesn’t have any, he may know of someone that does.  I do know of a glass company that can make the glass portion, but they wouldn’t have the brackets. If you want this information, I will find it for you.

I would like to enter your car’s information onto your PAS record, could you supply me the year, model serial and engine numbers?

Thanks,

Dave

Cislak, John E.
33 Briggs ST
Indian Orchard, MA 01151-2105
United States
Home Phone: 413/543-9017
Office Phone: 413/543-9017
Email: [email protected]

 

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Do you have the mounting brackets and just need the glass, or do you need the complete wind wing, glass and bracket?

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Ed,

The easiest way to check mixture is to look at a spark plug.  I usually drive the car and pull over, shut it off and pull a plug after it cools a little. The plug tip insulator should be light tan. White indicates too lean, black too rich.  See:  https://blackhawkparamotor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Spark-Plug-Color-For-Paramotor-Engines.pdf

Doing a web search for ” How to check mixture by reading a spark plug” will give you all kinds of information.

Another option is to get a tailpipe “sniffer”.

Dave

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Bob,

Are these what you are looking for?

https://pierce-arrowmuseum.org/store/1933-thru-1938-Pierce-Arrow-Running-Board-Rubber-Mats-p93971808

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I’ll get it off your member record.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Edward,

There is going to be an article on troubleshooting overheating in the next issue of the Service Bulletin. I can e-mail that article to you now if it will help you.  Sorry, I don’t know of anyone in your area that works on Pierce-Arrows.

Dave

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Klaus,

Glad it worked out.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Klaus,

PAS records show the car belongs to a former PAS member, Mary Reynolds, in CT. It is possible the car has been sold on.  If you would like her contact information, e-mail me at [email protected]. If you have additional historical information on the car, I can add it to the car’s PAS record.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It’s going to be a great tour car.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Kirby,

It’s looking great.  Refresh my memory, you just buffed the existing paint, or new?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Sorry, your grandfather. The car is in CT. I found it digging through some old records. It was reportedly purchased in 1999, about the right timeline from your description. I don’t think it is for sale, but you can contact him and ask.  I will e-mail you his contact info.  Dave

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Jason,

If your father is the person I mentioned above, I know where the car is now. Please confirm your father was Richard J. Peterson of Napa, CA and I will e-mail the information to you.   It is a 1933 836 Club Sedan.

Dave

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Jason,

We have a Richard J. Peterson of Napa in our expired members database. It shows he joined in 1982. Unfortunately there is no car attached to his record.  Is this him?  The car looks like a 1933 836 or 1236. It’s hard to tell from the photo angle but it looks like a Club Brougham or possibly a Club Sedan.  Hopefully one of our long time members remembers him and might give you more information. Our car database is organized by serial number,so it would be very helpful to have that if you can find any old paperwork.

Dave

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Ron,

In Pierce-Arrow cars of this era, the ( – ) cable went directly to the starter (as shown in the diagram Carl posted) and there was an internal switch mechanism inside the starter housing.  It was activated by a mechanical linkage from a foot pedal. Later 20’s cars (with dual valve engines) had a slightly different mechanism, but still internal. I do not know if the trucks were the same as the cars.  Below is a diagram of the early 20’s X Series truck starter. Hopefully this will be of some use to you.  You might check with Karl Krouch as he is familiar with the trucks.

Dave

 

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This is out of the 1930 Parts Book, the last one with drawings.  I don’t know if it will help you or not.  As far as a Borescope, you can pick one up at Harbor Freight for $60-70.

.

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Carl,

Thanks for the info. It has been added to the Parts and Services Directory.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Brett,

Below is a table of the various cylinder heads from  Service Bulletin 89-2. Strangely, it doesn’t list the Model 51. (same as 52?) The number/letter in the column “Mark” is stamped on a small flat (1″ long) in front of the water outlet. This will tell you what head you have and you can identify other heads as to which ones they are.  One other thing to note, in 1932 and ’33 cap screws were used to hold the head on. In ’34 Pierce switched to studs with a nut. The earlier engines have a locator pin in the block and a corresponding hole in the head (roughly enter of the head), the stud engines do not have this pin or the hole in the head.

Another PASB article mentioned that the small ’32 12 heads are specific to that model and others won’t interchange.

I have a cracked head on my ’33 1247. The spare head that came with the car is a ’34, without the locator hole. The two cracks run from the spark plug hole down the head (about 2″). I have done a temporary fix to keep the car operational with JB Weld. So far, no leaks. I do plan on replacing or repairing the head.

It is possible to have the head repaired.  “Lock and Stitch” is well known for successful repairs. There are also welders that can weld cast iron successfully. John Cislak is a likely source for a head.  413/543-9017  Email: [email protected]

Dave

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Click on the Red issue number and it will download a pdf.  Scroll down for the earlier issues.  If you can’t get them, I can e-mail the issues.

 

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