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Bob,

Do you have an Owners Manual for that car?  They contain a lot of information about the operation and care of the car. A digital download is available under publications.  https://pierce-arrow.org/members/owners-manuals/

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Bob,

You might try contacting Dennis Egan who is looking for an 8 cylinder Pierce-Arrow.

https://pierce-arrow.org/acadp_listings/wanted-1928-1938-eight/

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Branham pages that Brooks was referencing.  As this is a jpg file, it should be loaded as an image.

 

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Brooks,

If you email them to me as attachments, I will see if I can post them.  Also, there is a 1931 Phaeton right hand drive currently in France. It doesn’t look like a salon model.

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Ken,

Have checked with Greg Long. both about finding a radiator and whether the S 80 and S81 are interchangeable?

Dave

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Alan,

Wire wheels are listed as an option for $90 for rear mount spare. $225 for cars including side mounts and a trunk rack. I don’t know about the manifold cracking issue, or any other issues particular to ’31.

You might also download the ’31 Owner’s manual from the website under the Publications tab.

The 87-2 and 87-4 Arrows have a lot of information on the ’31s. I can e-mail you digital copies if you wish.

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Alan,

Here are a few pages from the ’31 Dealer Data Book. There also is a good article on ’31 models in Arrow 87-4.

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It sounds like you covered things.  What is your feeling about the arc, a high voltage arc, or a 12v arc?  What is the arc length? By “Both show ground to the block”, you mean the coils show no voltage potential to the block ground? How about between the block and the chassis? I can’t see how the coil cases would have voltage potential to arc to the firewall if they are at ground. Perhaps I am misunderstanding something.  I am hoping someone else will chime in with some ideas.

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Have you replaced the secondary wires from the coils to the distributor? How about the rotor and cap?  Electricity is going to take the path of least resistance, so if one of those has high resistance it might cause the spark to take a different path through the coil case. I have a hard time visualizing spark feeding back through the dist/coil primary wire, but I guess with some fault in the distributor it might.   Dave

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Carl,

I am a little confused (a common thing),  are you actually seeing an arc from the coil case to the firewall? To me this says a breakdown inside the coils.  Can you clarify?  Dave

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Try John Cislak.  413/543-9017.

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Hi Carl,

If you do a search in the technical search tool, you will get a lot of articles about the archers (there was none for 1930).  Enter “Archer” in the “Title” box.

There is a short article in PASB 1999-3, page 8 on 1930.

https://pierce-arrow.org/members/service-bulletin-library/

There also is information on the Bareheaded Archer in Arrow 1967-1. If you want it, I may be able to e-mail you a digital copy.

Dave

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Brooks,

You might check with the LeMay collection in Tacoma. There are two LeMays,  the original LeMay collection, and the newer LeMay, Americas Car Collection. I would try the original, on the Marimont campus first. Either may have some knowledge of an earlier Seattle collection. Harold LeMay had 1000s of cars.

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Brooks,

That serial number is not listed in the PAS database nor in Bernie Weis’ files, so no help there. Hopefully somebody in the group knows something about it.

Dave

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Mike,

From Service Bulletin 97-5:

1929 points and Rotor
(To: a member with a 1929 Pierce) ’29
The distributor on your 1929 is a Delco-Remy #668-E. Standard Brands
point sets #DR-2437-P and #DR-2236-P will work. Also, Echlin parts,,rotor
#RR-99 and contact assembly #CS 779-A, are designed to interchange.
The Delco-Remy part numbers for the points are: contact arm #813238,
and point #825452.
(OHK)

You might also check with John Cislak,  Office Phone: 413/543-9017
Email: [email protected]

Dave

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Yep, the bell of the horn is blocking the view of the number.

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Yes, that is a casting number, not the engine number. Do you have any photos higher up on that side of the block that might show the engine number?

I see what you mean about the casting date code. It certainly looks like “1” or an “I”.  An “I” would indicate 1928 which I guess is theoretically possible  since I believe the first ’29 car came out in very late 1928. But I think May of ’28 is pretty unlikely.  We really  need the correct engine number.

Dave

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Dennis,

Yes, the serial number indicates a 1929 Sedan.  The engine number in that car should start with A-.  Looking at near cars by serial number, it would be A-5xxx.  Please confirm for me that the engine number you have was stamped on a flat on the left side of the engine. The reason I am questioning the engine number is the only 8 cyl. engine numbers in PAS records that start with 1xxxxx are from a 1930 Model C, and these numbers only go to 102806. Attached is a photo of another 8 cyl engine with your exact number cast into the block, This is not the engine number. I have also attached a photo of the left side of an 8 cyl showing the correct location of the engine number.  ’31 engine numbers start with 22xxxx or 32xxxx.

Records we have on that car only show the ownership (Robert Howe of MA) up to the late ’60s. Interestingly, that record has a question mark for the engine number. Is it your car or do you have any other ownership history? If you have a high res photo of the left side of the engine you could e-mail me it would really help. Sorry to keep throwing questions at you.

Do you have anything to worry about? It depends on how much you value originality. If you want it for a show car, it would probably cost a few points. It is hard to say the effect on value, but I would think a little maybe, again, unless someone wants it as a show car, it would be more. As far as points loss, you would have to check with Rick Horne, PAS head judge.

As a driver, I wouldn’t think it would make a lot of difference. I am not that familiar with the working of the 8 cyl. engines, so I will let someone more knowledgeable comment on which might be the better engine. There are some differences in different years. Depending on year and what model it came from, it might actually have a larger displacement than the original.

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Dennis,

What year car is this in? How many cylinders? Are you sure the 123379 number is not a casting number? It does not fit in any P-A engine number sequence I can find. There are several cars listed in the PAS database with this as the engine number which makes me think it is a casting number.  If this is an 8 cyl., the engine number should be STAMPED on a flat midway down the block at the joint with the head on the driver’s side. A correct serial number would indicate the year.

The other number looks like a casting date code, except that it should start with a letter.  5-16 = May 16th. If the first character were a “J”, it would be 1929. Could it possibly be an “L”, which would be 1931?

Dave

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Have you checked with John Cislak?

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