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Those are great David, yes please, send them to me high res, [email protected]

On one of the stairwells, I believe toward the front of the building, the stairs were separated in the middle of the steps by a groove.  These obviously aren’t but do show the railing in good detail.

Thanks!

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Knobs for top of side mount clamp rods, rounded protrusion is different than 1931 I think, so don’t know years….

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I put an interior in an 840 not long ago, coincidently it belonged to Louis Abelove, Esq.  I have pictures of the process and the end result if that helps you any, just shoot me an email [email protected]  when you get there.

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Thanks for letting me know what it was!  I’m  a sucker for anything that says Pierce Arrow on it so overpaid for sure…thanks!

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Thanks, that could be it, albeit nicely done….dc

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My experience with 1934 and 1935 cars is that the 1934 had an all-chrome radiator shell, the 1935 had a painted shell with just chrome around the front as mentioned.  Shutter plating or painting was an option, also as mentioned.

I think the black painted louvers look good, and are distinctive.  Body color is fine too, that’s what I did with my ’31 phaeton.

While chrome looks great on the louvers, it can also overwhelm the front of the car.

I remember spending hours on the shutter assembly after having louvers chromed, making the pins fit in the top and bottom retainers.  What fun.

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Congrats! I know you’ll have fun with it, and as I’ve said before, you won’t meet a better group than the PAS……

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That’s a great feature, love how one can “thumb” through the pages…..great job!

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Welcome to the Pierce Arrow Society!  Make sure to tell your friends that you aren’t in a Club, but rather a Society!  You’ll meet some great people here.  So glad it went to someone who appreciates it, and will get it back on the road.  Don’t hesitate to ask the group, or individuals, questions….

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It does have a new owner, lives in Pennsylvania.  I don’t have the name but someone who frequents this site does, so stay tuned and he should chime in.

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Top looks great, correctly padded and nice and smooth.  I had to put a new top on a 1932, the guy had installed it in the dead of winter, it flapped at 30 miles an hour.  Well done!

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I stopped for gas in Dolores, Colorado, a few years ago, looked up and a Goose was sitting there next to a small museum.  It’s a little like Washington’s hatchet, though, the Pierce body was replaced by a Wayne body, the Pierce engine was replaced by a GMC engines.  At least the radiator shell was still Pierce!

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That was in the Calvin High Collection, who had the finest early to mid-30s convertible coupe assortment you’ve ever seen….Marmon, Stutz, V-16 Cadillac, and so forth….all in 100 point condition….

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Which is absolutely correct, but you’ll find that a heavy broadcloth is quite a challenge to get into that little slot.  I usually just glue the material on, leaving as small a tail as possible that you can push into the slot with a screwdriver or other flat device.  Thinner material, such as headliner, might work better.

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What number does the title have on it?  If you can’t match a number on the car to a number on the title, you’re really taking a chance buying it.

 

Looks like a nice car though.

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Well, thanks very much for reply!  I know Rich and will contact him, thanks!

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You missed a good one!

Great job by Karl and others, it was a wonderful event.   So good to see all the old, and meet new, friends enjoying the cars and company.  There were over fifty first timers (first PAS meet attended), which is not only believed to be a record, but bodes well for our Society.

Only problem was that when I got home after the meet, had to start a diet, those Pennsylvania Dutch just keep the food a’comin’!

Many thanks to Karl, Mary, Rick, Liz, and others, for making the effort to make this meet happen.

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The material is called a “no fray” fabric, you can buy it at most fabric stores.  It will have somewhat more of a weave evident.  Getting it in the slot is virtually impossible, add about an inch and a half to length and glue it one full round.  All that said, it’s a bear getting it perfectly even, so the next best thing is….

…go to the fellow who restores these for a living.  Not terribly expensive and you don’t have to fool with it. About $100 per shade restored.

Heritage Antique Automobile Interiors

1784 Ramblewood Avenue

Columbus Ohio 43235-7332

614-451-8893

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I have a master mechanic who does engines, mainly race and Porsche engines.  If you’re a friend, he’ll work on your old stuff.  His advice on my 1938 Packard Super Eight engine he worked on, torque rod nuts to 40 ft-lb and do NOT put in cotter pins.  He states a properly torqued bolt will not unscrew itself, and having pieces of cotter pins in the oil is not good for engine….

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