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I was not able to find a source for seat springs and needed to replace some that were damage from exposure to rodent droppings, so I made them using music wire available from McMaster-Carr.

Anyone with access to a lathe can do so too. I made a coil winding mandrel and a brass toolpost clamp. A little experimenting with mandrel diameters and feed rate (inches per turn) yielded perfect repros of the OEM springs.

Go for it!

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PASB 2011-1 provides the Motor’s manual info and rebuilding instructions for Ross boxes.

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A henweighs about three pounds.

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David,

Great job on the Emporium ad!

For all; you can read the backstory of the oil in this thread.

Happy motoring,

Bob

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Gee Ken, this award must be a new high for you!

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R.I.P., Dave. I enjoyed every minute spent with you.

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Does anyone know of a source for this cloth?

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This is Model B original fabric.

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Tony,

You have kept the check valve lubricated, but not the power cylinder. It is not possible for oil to get to the cylinder from the check valve. Buy a can at Hershey and refer to the instruction sheet.

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Dave, you are welcome.

It’s a pleasure to help out.

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My fundraiser project is now complete and the Vacuum Cylinder Oil for 1936-38 Pierce-Arrow Bragg-Kliesrath brakes will be available at the Pierce-Arrow Society and Museum tent at Hershey. Merlin Smith will also have it at upcoming P-A events – the Winter Meet and Next year’s annual meet.

Since oil is flammable it must be ground-only delivered and shipping costs about $14.00 for a one pint can, so buying it in person will be preferable. The reproduction can (as above) with 12 ozs of oil will retail for $25.00 and all proceeds will go to the Museum. Contact Merlin if you must have one shipped.

Each can comes with complete instructions for injecting the oil into the vacuum cylinder.

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James,

There are no levers in the ’36-38 steering wheel. Those functions are dash knobs.

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Jack, if not removing the head, you can replace nuts one-at-a-time. You should torque all nuts first, then replace (with anti-seize lube) and torque each one as you go. The hot/cold re-torquing steps are only required for a new gasket. Yours is already fully compressed. If you remove all nuts at one time, the gasket may not reseal and require replacement.

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Jim,

No, wipers need grease. I suggest you contact Kent Jaquith at 541-923-4319. He is listed in the Parts and Services Directory.

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Roger,

No on the flat washer, but absolutely yes on the thread sealant.

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Happy Birthday David!

I have fond memories of your visit to our Winter board meeting and the Meet in Silvedale, 1998. What happened in Silverdale will always stay in Silverdale.

Best Regards,

Bob

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The “I””s are ones. This is a plate from a 1931 Model 43.”

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Edgar,

You said I must kill a neat and cut off its feet to service my BK brake system. Now, must I find an angel to bend my wiper arms on?

Bob

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Ken,

You say – “Lots of silicon though used in the engine that has to all be cleaned out””. What are you referring to?”

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Ed,

What are the handful of Seagrave parts you can see?

[Author]

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