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Jim,
My 1703 has four of these spacers in each wheel well, each of a different thickness. There is a steel plate fastened with wood screws to each spacer. The large holes are for the head of plow bolts that secure the assemblies to the well. I did not find a ready source for plow bolts, so I used elevator bolts instead; they have the same large head but are flat instead of crowned. One of the spacers was too thin to accept screws, so it was attached with countersunk rivets (OEM). I hope you have the special spacers for the bottom of the well, as they are a different profile and held in place with countersunk stove bolts.
Bob
It’s available from the PAS Company Store, $15.00.
Steve,
The Wiring and Tune-up Guide calls for a Model 266 TK relay, 0.25 amps to close contacts and 0.8 amps current draw.
Bob
Jim,
Is the rail split? Â My 1703 has a split tube. The finish is unimportant, as it was covered with upholstery. The ends of the material were forced into the rail slot.
Bob
Jim,
These go into your fender wells to support the spare tire. You should have some blocks that bolt to the sides of the fender wells as well.
Bob
Jim,
You know that if you close the doors when the handle is in the locked position, it locks them and they cannot be unlocked from the outside using the key. The tab on the right front door prevents your inadvertently locking all the doors, with no way to enter the car!
Robert,
As I have commented on this forum before, one should not strike the puller bolt unless they are already planning to replace the bearings. Brinelling is the likely result of such hammering, requiring replacement of bearings and races. Dave’s warning about the danger of serious injury/damage with the axle nut removed is right on!
Bob
The Packard striped wool from Hirsch is the closest material I found to the original Pierce upholstery for my 1703.. Most lot numbers of this material have a purplish tinge to the gray. Some lots have a pure gray tint – ask for samples of all Hirsch’s lots to find the best available color match. I got about four or five samples and ordered the grayest among them.
Ken,
My 1703 EDL has an intercom. The power from the pushbutton goes to a terminal on the mic. There are three wires from the mic to the speaker. Happily, there are numbers at the terminals that correspond to numbered terminals on the speaker. The speaker frame is connected to the ground wires for the dome light and clock to complete the circuit. Frequently, all that is needed to make this system work is tapping the carbon mike on a wooden workbench to loosen caked carbon granules. Tap firmly but take care not to fracture the potmetal case. Good Luck!
James,
Yes, but I lost them in a computer crash. I may still have the tooling.
I was not able to find a source for seat springs and needed to replace some that were damage from exposure to rodent droppings, so I made them using music wire available from McMaster-Carr.
Anyone with access to a lathe can do so too. I made a coil winding mandrel and a brass toolpost clamp. A little experimenting with mandrel diameters and feed rate (inches per turn) yielded perfect repros of the OEM springs.
Go for it!
PASB 2011-1 provides the Motor’s manual info and rebuilding instructions for Ross boxes.
A henweighs about three pounds.
David,
Great job on the Emporium ad!
For all; you can read the backstory of the oil in this thread.
Happy motoring,
Bob
Gee Ken, this award must be a new high for you!
R.I.P., Dave. I enjoyed every minute spent with you.
Does anyone know of a source for this cloth?
This is Model B original fabric.
Tony,
You have kept the check valve lubricated, but not the power cylinder. It is not possible for oil to get to the cylinder from the check valve. Buy a can at Hershey and refer to the instruction sheet.
Dave, you are welcome.
It’s a pleasure to help out.
