[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I would add another step to George’s advice; After lightly inflating the tire bounce it smartly on the ground several times, then deflate it completely and re-inflate to final pressure. This will ensure that no folds remain in the tube from the initial insertion into the tire.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

While the above suggestions will provide good results, I have found that the boating folks have produced a far superior product for shaft sealing. A braided packing of high quality flax rovings impregnated with TEFLON is available (West Marine, for example) that seals with much less friction. The Western Pacific Trading Company PTFE FLAX shaft packing is to be installed with their SYNTEF packing lubricant. I have used this combination for over twenty years, with no problems — no leakage and no scored or galled shafts.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Check out CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) at restor-it.com. It is used a lot in boating repairs. I used it to treat a small dry-rot area in my Pierce.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Peter,

I am very much interested in Bernie’s tables of “known P-A cars”, could you e-mail me a copy of the list?

Thanks,

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Sorry John, but your advice is bad in two very important ways. First, silica sand should never be used on internal surfaces of any machinery. Sand particles remain after cleaning and make their way into the lubrication where they will destroy bearings. Second, silica sand should not be used as a blasting agent due to extreme health hazards. Google silicosis! There is a variety of safe media available; glass beads, garnet, steel slag, etc. I buy several different materials from a local supplier to save the shipping cost from folks like TP and Eastwood.

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Richard,

I highly recommend that you treat all wood surfaces with a clear penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES) prior to repainting. It seals, strengthens,and primes the wood. I use Restor-It brand, which is available from boat repair facilities. It is about the viscosity of water and soaks into old, dry wood readily.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The undercarriage is indeed judged. There is a specific line item, scored 0 to 5 points, for “Physical Appearance of Undercarriage, Splash Pans”. “Every effort effort should be made to ascertain the general appearance and maintenance of the undercarriage as far as reasonably possible. Absent splash pans or belly pans on vehicles prior to 1920 are cause for mandatory deduction”.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

My 1703 has both a roof wire connection and an under-the-running board antenna originals, no whip. Who has an original whip?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg,

I also think you are a font of info–maybe a Helvetica or a Times Roman.

But, maybe a fount of knowledge too?

Bob

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Steve,

That was the original material. I replaced mine with a sandwich of 1/4″ plywood top and bottom, with a filler of modern insulation/sound dampener material inside. I then protected the underside with sheet metal, same as the originals.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I got my 1703 harness from Y n Z and the only difficulty was the small difference between their 1803 pattern (from Eric Roseneau’s car) and the 1703, which Gene Zdunowski promptly resolved. Perfect repro harness.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Steve,

I suggest that you refer to PASB 2011-1 for helpful hints on lubricating your Ross Steering gear. The key point is, that if you do not know for certain that your steering box has not been lubed with grease via the Alemite zerk, you should open it before adding oil. Few folks out there know about oiling via the zerk and use a grease gun.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

John,

Yes, the rubber runs the full length of the board. What is it that you are trying to do?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

My 1703 has a 73-1/2″ running board.”

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I can see two problems with your reproduction sticker; the company name should be hyphenated, and the perimeter should be a double line vice single. If you look carefully, you can see both of these features in your pic of the original. The outer line is slightly wider than the inner and the hyphen is barely visible. Otherwise your reproduction looks identical to the original on my Model B Travelodge and I would like to purchase two from you if they can be corrected.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Better yet, send them to Arnold Romberg so we can all get them in a PAS Service Bulletin.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I might add that a weak spring can be a problem. A common misconception is that the camshaft-driven arm does the pumping; not true. The arm pushes the diaphragm against the spring pressure and the rebounding spring does the actual pumping.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

The screw-off top is on the vacuum check valve. Oil added here would free up and help seal the check disc. The intake manifold vacuum draws air out of the system allowing atmospheric pressure to operate the brakes. All air flow is towards the engine, so the answer is no.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Steve,

You would need to remove the power cylinder from its mounts only if it is frozen. Bragg-Kliesrath did provide for lubrication in place. One of the four front mounting bolt bosses is drilled through to the inside; the other three are blind holes. The drilled one should be at the lower left, when facing the cylinder. According to my B-K instruction booklet, two ounces of vacuum cylinder oil (not motor oil) should be added every 10K miles. Remove the clevis pin and move the piston four or five strokes by hand, rotating one-half turn with each stroke to distribute the oil over the cylinder wall and piston leather. The rubber piston guard should be removed and three or four drops of oil applied to the piston rod and spread out with the finger; then move the rod in and out two or three complete strokes to lubricate the rod bearing and packing.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The original material was called Pantasote. The only reproduction of this material that I have found is Jonarts Classics, Pantasote Replication, #200/B. I obtained this material from Eric Haartz, at Haartz Corp., Acton, MA.

[Author]

Posts