Gents,
I just checked the bands on my Series 80 generator and starter and they are both nickel plated, not chrome.
Peter
Bob,
Yes, shame on me, but I am unsure if I had raw steel generator and starter bands plated nickel, or if I cheeped out and just had chromed bands made.
Likely the former (nickel plated).
Now that the question is raised, I will remove one or both and compare them with my Series 80 radiator shell and other brightwork which I had plated in nickel.
And yes, I believe that chrome began to arrive on P-A cars in 1928 or 1929, however, I will check with Wayne or Marc Hancock, a.k.a, Master Restorer & Son, on those details.
Peter
David White,
Perhaps, the Classic Generator Company in Texas should be added to the list of Generator Service / Repair people on the Parts & Service section of the website.
Peter
Bob,
Is there space for a piece of glass between the back of the front seat and the mahogany wood cap?
BTW, lovely inlays and it looks like there are lots of fingernails scratches in the center.
Perhaps the recollections are of riding in a similar Series 81, but not this one?
Peter
Ken,
I believe that all of the Series 80 /81 Sedans had fixed front seats.
It is a shame for we long-legged Gents who do not have a Chauffeur.
Peter
Gents,
The Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil, SAE-30W contains; 1,400-ppm of Zinc and 1,300-ppm of Phosphorus.
Ditto with their 40W, 50W and 60W oils.
Boy, I love doing online research!
Peter
Gents,
I just spoke with a Shell Oil Tech Guy and he told me that Zinc remains in the Rotella T1, but it is reduced from years past.
I asked him about using Zinc additives and he was positive about adding that to standard single-weight motor oil, including Rotella T1.
He was pushing multi-weight oil, but was willing to understand my / our position on the single-weight oil.
I trust that this info helps.
Peter
Tom & Rod,
An excellent source for TRICO wiper parts / motors, etc, is Ficken, The Wiper Man.
He help me a good deal!
You can find lots of TRICO single motor vacuum wipers on eBay, but it would help if you had a Model Niumber.
Below, I post the website for The Wiper Man.
Peter
Jim,
Just because you don’t currently own a Pierce-Arrow motorcar, truck, motorcycle or bicycle, doesn’t mean that you cannot be a member of the Pierce-Arrow Society.
We need member support, and at the minimum that comes with renewing memberships.
Besides, as you renew, you can check in on your PAS Message Board Buddies.
In this way, we also don’t have to be sad to see you go.
The membership fee is “small beer”” for the connections it provides.
Peter”
Jim,
You need to send that out to a clock & watch maker, or at least to a sophisticated jewelry stop with a watch repair person.
There are some mechanisms that are far too delicate for we mere mortals to repair / refurbish.
Peter
WOW!
Gents,
On the replaced windshield on my Series 80 (DeLuxe sedan, top/bottom split window), the Bug is on the lower section / bottom right-hand corner.
I covered it with my State Inspection sticker.
Where there i a will, there is a way.
Peter
Tom,
I don’t know about the door glass, but I had to replace my windshield, both top and botton (Series 80 DeLuxe – split windshield) with modern flat safety glass.
The top piece was easy, as t is just a big rectangle.
However, the bottom piece has a very nice CURVE that took three pieces of glass to get done without breaking it (that was killing their profit margin).
If you can get access and remove the window mechanism, and also have the glass dimensions (perhaps, including thickness, any good Auto-Glass shop should be able to create one for you and perhaps install it on your mechanism.
Then re-installing it without breaking it will be up to you or your “man.””
As long as it is not a windshield they may not need to attach a “”bug””.
The “”bug”” is the design / identification image that lives in the lower corner of every windshield and most side windows.
I believe that it indicates the glass is Safety Glass.
I hope that this helps.
Merry Christmas!
Peter”
Bill,
I had the same problem with the 90+ year-old bolts on my water jacket.
I punched the broken bolt face, drilled with a very small titanium tipped drill bit, then a larger titanium drill bit, then a larger titanium drill bit, etc.
I go the hole large enough to take a good size easy out, soaked the area with penetrating oil, let it sit overnight and tried to remove it.
NOPE!
I then drilled it a bit more to fit a larger easy out, and repeated the operation.
I believe that on the second try, the bolt threads broke loose and I removed the sucker.
On the Series 80 there are 41 water jacket bolts (why 41?), so removing them the first time after ?? years was a challenge.
I believe that I had to do that on a number of WJ bolts.
I also removed about 2-quarts (dry) of ferrous crud from the cooling chamber.
Good luck with your endeavor.
Peter
Ron,
John may be pricy, but you will receive quality parts, and as you indicated, beggars cannot be choosers especially when you want the parts NOW.
Peter
Gents,
Clean Sweep is also listed in OUR Parts & Services Directory.
Peter
Ronald,
Look in the Parts & Services section of this website.
In there, under Body & Trim is a listing for Windshield Wipers.
In that section is a list of Sellers & Repair guys.
I have used David Ficken before for obscure parts, and perhaps others.
Peter
Marc,
What are the engine and body numbers?
I’ll look them up for you, if you wish.
Peter
James,
The Schwabacker-Fry files, or the Schwabacker-Frey files?
And if either, what are those, and what do they have to do with Pierce-Arrow motorcars?
They were a high-end postcard / fancy printing company.
Peter