[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim,

The TRICO Visionall wipers, if that is what you are writing about, Do Not use Grease for lubrication.

You need light weight oil, like 10W or 3-in-One oil.

The 3-in-One is the easiest to install.

I believe that I posted this on a previous PAS M-B entry.

If you have specific questions, send me an email.

If that is not what you are questioning, then I DK.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Also, what is the big silver thing?

It looks like a top latch.

Does the top of your Series 81 come off?

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

As for the electric switches, I DK, but you can always run them back to their ends to determine what they do.

Perhaps, a dash instrument, an interior light or something in the engine compartment.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

It appears that you have a FULL Length TRICO Visionall.

A photo from outside would confirm.

They are quite the Cat’s Meow!

If it works, that is great.

If not, then I can connect you with the Visionall Guy.

Also, I have two spares of that unit, one NOS.

They need to be oiled every year with light weight oil (3-in-1 oil or 10W).

If you want details on that procedure, send me an email.

The engine manifold vacuum drives the wipers after you flip the switch.

They should also “PARK” and one of the positions on the switch should bring them together in the middle of the windshield.

As soon as they PARK, you shut off the valve.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

BTW, my wipers had that sort of Left-Center-Right toggle until I swapped it out for a three position In-Out type.

I will post photos soon.

Also BTW, it is cool to have wipers on a 1920s car.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Just as a point of correctness,; Electrics, not Electronics.

Electronics came in with Transistors and that didn’t happen until the 1950s or 60s.

How about an under dash photo of the mystery switches?

Do you have ONE wiper or Two?

Is your wiper motor a small semicircular type that swing back and forth or a Long type that goes back and forth all the way across the windshield?

Photos?

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

I have similar small pulls on my Series 80, one is for the Visionall Vacuum Wipers and one is for the Cowl Lights.

On your Series 81, do you have Auxiliary lights in between the headlights?

Do you have wipers?

Are they both electrical switches or is one a vacuum switch?

I see in the one photo what looks to be a vacuum tube (although it appears cracked).

Do you have vacuum wipers on the car?

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg,

My Series 80 was upgraded about 91-years ago to run the Stromberg O-3 carburetor.

It was upgraded by my Uncle Joe’s, Uncle Joe Waldorf who was the Supervising Director of the PAMCC Grisholt rear-end / differential plant.

In addition, I am confident that there are no Choke Knobs in any of the boxes of nickel do-dads that I have floating around.

If there was such a knob, it certainly would not have a hole for mounting on the dashboard of my Series 80.

The Rich-Lean level adjusts the Choke / Butterfly on my Series 80, Stromberg O-3 carburetor.

If you note my second question to Jack, I requested that he post a photo.

After that, I made no comments regarding the Choke Knob..

As to my adding confusion to the discussion, OOPS, as I clearly pointed out from the beginning this discussion, I am not familiar with the dashboard configuration / Choke Knob on the Series 81.

Cheers,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Kevin,

It seems that you are being ignored here (Sunday posting effect?), so contact George Teebay (see PAS Roster) on the matter, as he will provide everything you need to know about gear and transmission oil.

If I can dig up my document on Lubrication, I will send it as an email.

Also, you should contact Olsen’s Gaskets (listed in the Parts & Service section) for gaskets.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg,

All of what you wrote is fine, but remember that my Series 80 runs a Stromberg O-3, Series 81 carburetor on it.

If the carburetor has a real choke on it, that is great, however, my Series 80 does not have a “Choke” knob, but a “Rich – Lean” slide on the dash and that adjusts the level of choke, which I usually run mid-way between Rich & Lean.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

How about a photo?

The Series 80 has a slide that is a “RICH – LEAN” lever, and no “CHOKE.”

I believe that the Rich-Lean lever IS the choke.

The Series 81 must be different.

Also, the problem with detail parts for the Series 81 if they are different from those on the Series 80 is that the PAMCC made very few Series 81 cars.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Here is the guy that I used for a number of casting projects.

He does great work with reasonable turn around.

Peter

Walter Butler

New England Castings

57 Main Street

Post Office Box 295

Hiram, Maine 04041

(207) 625-3256

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Are you talking about the PRIMER PULL or the Rich-Lean assembly?

If the former, contact Wayne or Marc Hancock (PAS members).

If the latter, I DK.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Eric,

Note George Teebay’s comments on types of cutouts.

You can find them on eBay (by number) and as Mr. Ed pointed out, carry a spare.

I have three or four spares and have never needed them.

Just as I installed an electric winch in my trailer after I blew a piston and needed to have a gang of PAS Gents push my Series 80 into my trailer (it has never been used).

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

It is wonderful to have excellent memories of mentors.

I did not know Roland, but I knew Leo and he was a Real Man.

He once commented longingly on my cigar smoking, but declined my offer of one for him to burn.

It is a shame and I wish he would have taken it, for he died within a year or so.

It would have been a high point for me to have smoked a cigar with Leo.

Cigar smokers know that burning “sacred tobacco” is an investment in personal leisure time.

Peter

PS: To amend my previous comment, I now substitute SMILE for Laugh. Thank You.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

I occasionally don’t agree with you, BUT I ALWAYS LAUGH at your COMMENTS!

You are a Good Man, Tony,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It may be a matter of tradition, but It should be listed under ACTIVITIES and ANNOUNCEMENTS, not on the Message Board!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

The water jacket bolts don’t need to be torqued, per se, but sufficiently tight so that the jacket does not leak around the perimeter or at the holes.

The way to test is to fill the cylinder bock with water and see if / where it leaks.

Then tighten the bolt associated with the leak a touch and see if it stops.

Then, move on down the line.

I not only used the cork gasket, but used Permatex Ultra Black on each side of the gasket to make it adhere.

I also used a touch, to a minor glob, of the Permatex on each of the bolt threads to seal them a bit more.

Maybe even a touch on the inboard ID of each crush washer.

Any “free floating” Permatex pieces in the cooling system will get captured in your fancy, new fangled, ladies’ hosiery toe, cooling system filter.

Have fun.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

We are trying to keep you from going cylinder head NUTS!

And you would go NUTS if you ever over-torque those cylinder head fasteners and crack that aluminum cylinder head.

HA!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Torque to 50-psi max, run until at driving / operating temperature, re-torque when cold, repeat in two weeks, repeat in two weeks.

Peter

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