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Jack,
My Dear Departed Mechanical Engineer Father used to tell me: IF IT IS NOT BROKEN, DON’T FIX IT!
In those days, every time I tried to FIX something that was not broken, I broke it.
In this regard, a Wiser Man, I never knew.
Peter
Gents,
I just copied this from the CCCA website: CCCA Approved Classics (updated 4/1/2019).
“Pierce-Arrow – 1915-1924; All; 1921 Series 32; 1922 and up Series 33; 1925 All.”
And Ed, you were saying what about ALL P-A cars being included? 
BTW, this discussion seems to be going downhill and I take some responsibility for rolling certain marques over the cliff.
Peter
http://www.classiccarclub.org/grand_classics/approved_classics_2019.html
Make sure that they were introduced on the Series 81 and not just the senior cars.
Per Ed’s comment, if absolutely necessary, an extra washer or two will take up some gap.
Jack,
As you now know, you can buy the AN900-4 crush gaskets / washers from another supplier for about $1.20 each.
Also, speaking of money, ask your wife about women and their shoes and purses, IF YOU DARE!
Peter
Jack,
Use stainless steel nuts and polish them if you wish.
I don’t believe that they are supposed to be chrome anyway.
Peter
Jack,
BTW, I don’t think that you can REAM those washers / gaskets because they are VEARY FRAGILE!
Peter
Jack,
Didn’t you recceive the email I sent you with a source for the AN900-4 crush washers?
That is the correct size and the company seemed to have them for sale.
Peter
Ken,
That registration has been offered on eBay few times according to the Bernie Weis records.
Here are the details.
It seems as if the EDL is gone.
Peter
1925 PA registration, plate #59590. (copy from Paul Jacobs, orig. offered on eBay Oct. ’08)
1924 PA registration, plate #67262 (copy from Bob Sands, orig. offered on eBay, June 2010)
Ed,
YOU ARE A HOOT!
Peter
Jack,
Stainless Steel slot screws look like nickel when polished and using square nuts is nuts, unless you are restoring to Pebble Beach standards.
Peter
You mix them with Distilled Water.
Jack,
When you are ready to button it up, use NAPA KOOL or Penn Cool as coolants in your radiator, as they have a rust inhibitor.
Do that and that will be the end of your corrosion problems.
Peter
Jack,
Taking off the manifolds won’t help your cleaning out the rust, as the only substantial access to the cooling chamber is where you are now.
You will be maximally successful if you Shop Vac, then hose it out, let it dry, then repeat with the Shop Vac.
I continue to believe that a long, thin magnetic pickup will be of great assistance and you won’t run the risk of dropping a magnet off of clothes hanger wire and being unable to retrieve it because you can’t reach it and it is magnetically stuck to some part of the cylinder block.
As far as removing the broken bolts, if you hav any part sticking out of the backside (within the chamber, try a small vice-grip to get them moving.
Peter
Jack,
As for most things Series 80/81, contact Greg Long.
Peter
Jack & Greg,
The Paul Jacobs Cylinder Block / Radiator Neck is of excellent quality and the bottom is Piano-Wire Flat / Straight.
It is not aluminum.
There was no problem attaching one of Paul’s reproductions to my Series 80 without leaks, but of course, I followed the procedure outlined above by Greg.
Jack, keep at it and you will get that engine working properly.
Then, you will host discussions here on other matters (brakes, electrical, etc.).
BTW, the thermostat number: 248-160 is what you need, as finding a “Federated” 248-160 may be near impossible.
Other makes (viz., Motorad) are available, and note that 248 is the size, and 160 is the temperature.
You should be able to get one for under $20.00.
Peter
Jack,
In reviewing the Parts & Services page on the website, I see that Karl Krouch may also offer a cylinder block / radiator neck, but I do not know the details of it.
Peter
Jack,
To add to Greg’s finger blistering comments, i offer some details.
Paul Jacobs, a PAS member offers a radiator neck that is made of some composition material that will not corrode.
Regarding the sacrificial anode, you can pick one up at a Marine Supply store. When you get it, just place it in the cooling chamber of the cylinder block, or as Greg suggested, in the upper radiator tank, and you will be good to go.
Apropos of the modern, 160-degree thermostat, I attach a photo of what you want.
After you acquire said thermostat, then you can drill two small holes in the base to allow for minor water / coolant flow.
I believe that everything else Greg posted covers the bases.
Also, regarding Randy’s posting, the water jacket gasket,, and of course the water jacket, has a wonky arrangement of the bolt holes with the bottom left having an non-symmetrical extra hole, but you will figure it out in one shot: up, down, left, right, oh yeah!
Peter
Jack,
BTW, the pipe is brass because brass won’t RUST away as would steel.
Peter
Jack,
The water jacket gasket is cork and with the Permatex, will be leak free.
Just make sure that when you put it on the cylinder block side that you hit the holes a touch with the Permatex, or at least tight to them.
Then, make sure you cover to the edges of the gasket, both sides.
Olsen Gasket sells a full sent of gaskets for the Series 80 / 81, but making your own gives a real sense of accomplishment.
Peter
Jack,
There is also a gasket that surrounds the water jacket.
That is affixed to the cylinder block with the Permatex Ultra Black sealer and similarly to the water jacket cover.
Don’t be skimpy with the Permatex, but don’t glob it on.
Also, you need copper crush washers for correct seating of the bolts.
They are impossible to find at a reasonable price, check Restoration Supply, and after you do, be in touch with me, as I have a Supply that I will sell for much less than the Resto price.
Peter
