[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Eric,

Note George Teebay’s comments on types of cutouts.

You can find them on eBay (by number) and as Mr. Ed pointed out, carry a spare.

I have three or four spares and have never needed them.

Just as I installed an electric winch in my trailer after I blew a piston and needed to have a gang of PAS Gents push my Series 80 into my trailer (it has never been used).

Peter

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Tony,

It is wonderful to have excellent memories of mentors.

I did not know Roland, but I knew Leo and he was a Real Man.

He once commented longingly on my cigar smoking, but declined my offer of one for him to burn.

It is a shame and I wish he would have taken it, for he died within a year or so.

It would have been a high point for me to have smoked a cigar with Leo.

Cigar smokers know that burning “sacred tobacco” is an investment in personal leisure time.

Peter

PS: To amend my previous comment, I now substitute SMILE for Laugh. Thank You.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

I occasionally don’t agree with you, BUT I ALWAYS LAUGH at your COMMENTS!

You are a Good Man, Tony,

Peter

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It may be a matter of tradition, but It should be listed under ACTIVITIES and ANNOUNCEMENTS, not on the Message Board!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

The water jacket bolts don’t need to be torqued, per se, but sufficiently tight so that the jacket does not leak around the perimeter or at the holes.

The way to test is to fill the cylinder bock with water and see if / where it leaks.

Then tighten the bolt associated with the leak a touch and see if it stops.

Then, move on down the line.

I not only used the cork gasket, but used Permatex Ultra Black on each side of the gasket to make it adhere.

I also used a touch, to a minor glob, of the Permatex on each of the bolt threads to seal them a bit more.

Maybe even a touch on the inboard ID of each crush washer.

Any “free floating” Permatex pieces in the cooling system will get captured in your fancy, new fangled, ladies’ hosiery toe, cooling system filter.

Have fun.

Peter

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Jack,

We are trying to keep you from going cylinder head NUTS!

And you would go NUTS if you ever over-torque those cylinder head fasteners and crack that aluminum cylinder head.

HA!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Torque to 50-psi max, run until at driving / operating temperature, re-torque when cold, repeat in two weeks, repeat in two weeks.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

My Dear Departed Mechanical Engineer Father used to tell me: IF IT IS NOT BROKEN, DON’T FIX IT!

In those days, every time I tried to FIX something that was not broken, I broke it.

In this regard, a Wiser Man, I never knew.

Peter

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Gents,

I just copied this from the CCCA website: CCCA Approved Classics (updated 4/1/2019).

“Pierce-Arrow – 1915-1924; All; 1921 Series 32; 1922 and up Series 33; 1925 All.”

And Ed, you were saying what about ALL P-A cars being included?

BTW, this discussion seems to be going downhill and I take some responsibility for rolling certain marques over the cliff.

Peter

http://www.classiccarclub.org/grand_classics/approved_classics_2019.html

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Make sure that they were introduced on the Series 81 and not just the senior cars.

Per Ed’s comment, if absolutely necessary, an extra washer or two will take up some gap.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

As you now know, you can buy the AN900-4 crush gaskets / washers from another supplier for about $1.20 each.

Also, speaking of money, ask your wife about women and their shoes and purses, IF YOU DARE!

Peter

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Jack,

Use stainless steel nuts and polish them if you wish.

I don’t believe that they are supposed to be chrome anyway.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

BTW, I don’t think that you can REAM those washers / gaskets because they are VEARY FRAGILE!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Didn’t you recceive the email I sent you with a source for the AN900-4 crush washers?

That is the correct size and the company seemed to have them for sale.

Peter

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Ken,

That registration has been offered on eBay few times according to the Bernie Weis records.

Here are the details.

It seems as if the EDL is gone.

Peter

1925 PA registration, plate #59590. (copy from Paul Jacobs, orig. offered on eBay Oct. ’08)

1924 PA registration, plate #67262 (copy from Bob Sands, orig. offered on eBay, June 2010)

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ed,

YOU ARE A HOOT!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Stainless Steel slot screws look like nickel when polished and using square nuts is nuts, unless you are restoring to Pebble Beach standards.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

You mix them with Distilled Water.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

When you are ready to button it up, use NAPA KOOL or Penn Cool as coolants in your radiator, as they have a rust inhibitor.

Do that and that will be the end of your corrosion problems.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Taking off the manifolds won’t help your cleaning out the rust, as the only substantial access to the cooling chamber is where you are now.

You will be maximally successful if you Shop Vac, then hose it out, let it dry, then repeat with the Shop Vac.

I continue to believe that a long, thin magnetic pickup will be of great assistance and you won’t run the risk of dropping a magnet off of clothes hanger wire and being unable to retrieve it because you can’t reach it and it is magnetically stuck to some part of the cylinder block.

As far as removing the broken bolts, if you hav any part sticking out of the backside (within the chamber, try a small vice-grip to get them moving.

Peter

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