Jim,
See my reply to your question about upholstery.
Peter
Jim,
You should look at SMS Auto Fabrics.
Here is their web address: https://smsautofabrics.com.
I had good luck with them.
Peter
Series 80 cars are nickel plated, not chrome!
Duane,
Prior PAS member owned it.
Here is the link to the Gent’s info.
Peter
(https://pierce-arrow.org/members/vehicle-list/?doact=show&member=1467&pid=361289)
Duane,
I don’t know anything about the car, but it looks nice.
Did you look up the VIN on this website?
If not, you should.
Below I will post the eBay link.
Peter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324833033779?hash=item4ba18ebe33:g:C40AAOSwudBhaYB0
David and Donna,
What a lovely motorcar!
You deserve such a fabulous vehicle.
Cheers,
Peter
Art,
You should not be using traditional antifreeze with your car.
It can cause your car to overheat and spew antifreeze, which is a frustrating MESS.
I believe that a number of us use a combination of Distilled Water (available in gallons at your local supermarket) and an additive called something like PennCool (https://penray.com/product/pencool-2000-engine-cooling-system-treatment/).
Then, you don’t have to change the liquid in your radiator but every zillion years.
It may also prevent the bonding of dissimilar metals
If I am incorrect on this matter, I am confident that someone will chime in.
Peter
Ken,
I also appreciate your input.
I decided to use it as a mascot display piece, rather than as a functional Moto-Meter cap for my car.
I have plenty of those.
Thanks again.
Peter
Gents,
I have a substantial collection of dog-bone caps which now hold various sized Moto-Meters, so buying the most recent one was done on the chance this one would fit.
It didn’t!
I am currently not in the mood to spend another bunch of $$ to not only get this one to fit, but to re-plate it in nickel.
I will probably be offering it for sale on the PAS website as soon as I take a few photos.
Thanks for all of the input.
Peter
Ken,
Very Nice!
What was the cost?
Peter
Art,
Make sure you are using Wooden Wedges, a bunch of them all around, in the gaps between the block and the head!
Use six or eight of them.
Whack one with a hammer, then move to the next.
I did it in the past and it will work, if slowly.
Move from whacking one wedge to the next and back again.
I trust that will work and the wood will keep the block and head from being damaged.
Peter
Herbert and David,
Measurements of the “new” dog-bone radiator cap OD is as follows.
2.095″ – 2.096 and 2.092″. (only three measurements).
The OD of an existing and usable cap threads is 2.013″.
The ID of my radiator neck is 1.977.
The pitch on both caps is 14.
Peter
I believe that your aluminum cylinder head is from a Series 81, so you original cast iron Series 80 cylinder head was replaced sometime in the past.
Rod,
That is valuable information.
Perhaps it can be added to the Parts and Service Directory as a supplier of these hard to find commodities.
Maybe David White will notice this and do so in his usual, excellent way.
Peter
Hello Tom & Joan,
Thank you for the lead.
I bought two (2) mascots, one of which was the Running Archer!
Peter
Best,
Jason,
Just in case you need a new gauge, you can look on eBay for a “Vintage AMPERES” gauge.
There are at least a dozen currently (no pun) available on eBay, although the faces on some are WHITE.
I believe that you can always remove the faceplate with a very ting screwdriver, and replace it with the Black one from your Pierce-Arrow.
The Packard, Amperes / Oil Pressure gauge set is near identical in shape, size and configuration, perhaps, save for color, as that on the Pierce-Arrow.
Some have Black faces.
It will be good for you to start collecting replacement parts, especially electrical parts, for your Series 80, as they are increasingly difficult to find and you should snag them when you see them.
Just don’t tell your wife!
Apropos of the wiring on the car, it will not be that difficult.
You need to buy a number of different colored rolls of electrical wire.
Get one in Black and one in Red, and then a few that are multi-colored rolls which come with White or Black tracers.
I recall that the most difficult wiring is behind the dashboard, as you may have to be lying on your back on the floor and working upward.
The headlight and taillight run is relatively simple, although you need to run it through the conduit that runs fore to aft.
I don’t totally recall, but I may have had to run a nylon string, or just SS-wire through the conduit first and then affix the electrical wire to the nylon string or SS-wire and carefully pull it through.
At least in that way, you know that all of your wiring is new.
The one wire that I did not replace was the wire that runs to the interiorDome Light, as it may require removing some of the “B-Pillar” upholstery to do it.
I rarely use that light anyway.
Restoration Supply and other vendors carry that type wire. https://restorationstuff.com
As for the gauge, I do not recall (a mind is a terrible thing to lose!), however I believe for MOST applications will require 12- to 14-gauge wire.
For some of the direct to Battery leads may require 16 t0 18-gauge wire.
If I am wrong, I am confident that someone here will correct me.
If you ave any questions on any of this, please feel free to telephone.
Cheers,
Peter
Jason,
The 6v Rayovac battery is an excellent suggestion for testing your wiring.
Also remember that your Pierce is a POSITIVE GROUND car.
A good source for 6V ammeters is eBay.
I believe that I just bought one there today.
Peter
Steve,
You should do an eBay search with the keywords: Owen Dyneto 40300 cutout.
I saw three of them there this morning.
Cheers,
Peter
Yo Bill,
It’s too bad that you couldn’t take it home.
Peter