Garrick,
Here is the info on your “A” engine
1930 A 144-in wheelbase, 300523 (Engine installed in Ray Rylander’s 1930 “C”, see ser #1003500)
PAS c. ‘67 to ‘93. Car has ‘30 B rdstr body and ‘30 A engine #300523.
Here is the info on you “C” engine:
1930 C 132-in wheelbase, 1003853 102558 Sedan McPherson (College)
Here is the no on you “B” engine – from a 1932 P-A:
1932 54 137-in wheelbase, 1050363 230080 Sedan (Past Owner) Feusi, Robert J., 7600 Red Bud Rd., Roseville, CA, 95661 c. ’69-’87. (deceased)
I hope this is helpful.
Peter
There are a few things going on with that eBay listing.
The opening price on the car is a bit steep and no reserve (?).
The car has obviously been through a number of “collectors” and it sounds as though the seller is a dealer and not a Pierce-Arrow guy.
The seller does not list the engine or body S/Ns so there is no way to track the car through the PAS unless someone happens to recognize it.
It does appear to be a “nice” looking car but i would think that more info is necessary to get someone to make the first leap and offer the initial $80K with the prospects of getting into a bidding duel for the car.
I do not even know if it is “correct” because I am not a 1930-A guy.
Also, what color is it? in one pic it looks blue, in a few others, perhaps burgundy.
From some angles, the paint does not look well done.
I would want to touch it and hear it run before I thought about laying out $80 to $100 large.
If it is a good deal, the snipers will come out to snag it in the last 30-seconds of the auction.
If they don’t come out to snipe, it was not a good deal.
Come to the Buffalo Meet this summer and get to drive some cars so you can find out which you like.
Finally, welcome to the Society!
It is a shame that there are such RATS in our hobby!
Tom,
On the passenger side of the oil pan there is a stopcock.
Open the stopcock and if oil comes out, the engine has at least sufficient oil.
If not, then add oil until oil comes out of the stopcock.
Do not mistake that SIDE stopcock for the DRAIN stopcock, which resides at the bottom right of the oil pan.
I believe that the Series 80 engine takes about 9-quarts of oil.
A bit more is fine.
Use Diesel Grade oil.
Good luck.
Peter
West System is also a marine epoxy.
All of the marine epoxy products must survive the world’s most harsh environment, the OCEAN.
You will be fine with whatever brand you choose to use.
Hey All,
See the Emporium for Non-Member listing for a 1937, 1701, 5-Passenger Sedan.
Also, I think that the Mecum Auction price was close to correct for a respectable driver.
BTW, Tony, how about taking me along for one of those $35K dinners sometime? Maybe we could go to The Four Seasons / George V, in Paris? WOW!
Peter
BRAVO!
Michael,
There is a 36 P-A clock on eBay, it is being sold by John Cislak.
It has hands, but they are rough.
It may be worth a look.
Good hunting,
Peter
That is a WINTERfront, unless I am mistaken.
It was designed to keep the cold air out until the radiator is sufficiently hot to open the louvers (thermostat inside Winterfront) and it will close again if the radiator temp drops sufficiently to cause poor engine performance.
they are interesting to hang on your garage wall for decoration, but since most of us do not drive our P-A cars in the snow, they have little practical use.
Also, per the pic, a Winterfront on a touring car in winter would provide a very chilly ride, even if the engine were toasty.
Jak,
Maybe the “cut”” before the “”polish”” caused the powder coat to take on a satin finish.
I don’t think that you can buff out powder coat because it is not officially “”paint.””
I believe it is a thermoplastic or a thermoset polymer.
Maybe you need toothpaste or a plastic polish to make it shine.
What do you think mate?
Peter
“
Is their slogan, “You Stab ‘Em, We Slab ‘Em”?
Do you know if Mr. Gil was an Attorney?
Now, that would be one-stop shopping!
From now on, I’m sticking to comments about Series 80 cars, and FYI, I was wrong on both counts.
David,
I did some searching for Lewis Buckles, Chicago, and it is reported that they did a slew of reproductions and “Fakes-of-Fakes” in the 1960s or so, when there was a “belt buckle” craze.
It is not at all clear that our lovely G. N. Pierce belt buckles are reproductions rather than fakes-of-fakes, but they remain interesting and are at least 50-years-old.
BTW, no need to have concern.
Peter
http://newsok.com/belt-buckle-just-a-fake-of-a-fake/article/2303132
AH, Sunday Morning goofing off,
Here is more on Carl Nickum from Motorcycle Illustrated, 12 October, 1916.
MAIN BUYS OUT NICKUM, WAUKEGAN Ill
M. T. Main has purchased the business of Carl Nickum, at 131 South Genesee Street and will continue to handle the Harley Davidson for 1917. He will also sell bicycles and accordingly has closed with the Excelsior folks to handle their wheels. Main sells on time asking one half down and the balance at the rate of $1 per week
Hello All,
Here is Carl Nickum, or at least his US Patent.
It looks a lot like what people use today to do quick fixes on flat tires.
Only one page posts, so you can find the others by doing a search for US Patent #1,363,163.
Peter
David,
Thanks for outdoing me by having TWO Zimmerman buckles and a few others.
Heck, I figured that I could sell mine to Ben for $5,000.00, but that deal is shot! HA!
Considering the diversity of buckles described (three different names), perhaps they are not PAS reproductions, but product runs of the time, like by the PAMCC Dealer’s Association.
What do you think?
Peter
Here is some semi-related trivia.
Check out Arthur Augustus Zimmerman as an early bicycle racer.
I attach photo of a belt buckle (PAS reproduction – long ago) awarded to him by the G. N. Pierce Dealers.
However, I do not believe he ever competed on a Pierce bike.
If you want the Ford wiper motors and parts, you can get them from Labaron Bonney or Mac’s Antique Auto Parts. Wiperman.com is GREAT for all sorts of vintage wiper parts and the Rain-X works like a charm.
Good luck!
Identification MADE by Jak!
Thanks Mate!