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Optima has agreed to support our members and this website with a great deal on their 6-volt battery. The promotion is set to run from March 1-30th, is not stackable with any other offer, is only good for 6-volt batteries with a maximum of two per purchase and limited to Pierce Arrow Society members only.

From now until March 30th, members of the Pierce Arrow Society, who purchase a 6-volt RedTop battery online at shop.optimabatteries.com will receive special pricing of $100 per battery (normally $169.99) and free shipping right to their front door in the lower 48 states, by entering a unique coupon code when purchasing factory-direct at shop.optimabatteries.com .

Here is how the process works:

1. If you want the deal, send an e-mail requesting a unique one-time use coupon code to [email protected]

2. You will receive a unique one-time-use code that will be valid until 3/30 only. Codes will be invalid after Midnight on 3/30.

3. Once you receive your code, you will need to go to the Optima shopping site at http://www.optimabatteries.com…op-starting-battery/

4. Add the 6-volt battery (up to 2) part # 6V (8010-044) and go to the checkout cart

5. Here’s the important part: Enter your unique code that will calculate your discount on the Billing page of the check-out.

6. Finalize your order

7. Wait for your “Factory Fresh” Optima RedTop 6 volt to arrive at your door (usually within 4 days of your order).

This offer is limited to two batteries per household and will expire on March 30, 2015. This offer is only available on OPTIMA RedTop 6-volt batteries purchased directly from shop.optimabatteries.com .

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Thanks Henry,

This is what the AACA wrote about Steve’s and Bob’s efforts.

“A Feeling for French Cars”, Steve Rossi

M. J. Duryea Memorial Cup

Steve is one of our most read columnist on the staff of Antique Automobile. His lifelong love affair

shows in the stories he writes and his long career in the automotive industry obviously helps him with his topics. The column about French cars was superbly detailed and caused a lot of interest and letters from our members.

“American Automobiles of the Brass Era”, Robert Dluhy

Thomas McKean Memorial Cup

This book with all its fantastic research had to have hurt his eyesight. Thousands of specifications are in one book and will be a treasured resource for brass car guys for a long time to come.

Again, Congratulations Gents!

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Hello everyone,

FYI, Fay Butler is involved with the McPherson College folks, so at a minimum they have access to the Premiere Sheet Metal Fabricator in the Collector Car Hobby.

With this forum, they even have access to the vast opinions of the members of the PAS on matters other than body work.

Peter

PS: Tony, EONS are a long time from now, eh? Now THAT is survivability!

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Scott,

The temptation to turn a lesser car into a more valuable one has been going on since the creation of Used Car Dealers!

BTW, when last I looked, the car was no longer listed on eBay.

Peter

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Garrick,

Here is the info on your “A” engine

1930 A 144-in wheelbase, 300523 (Engine installed in Ray Rylander’s 1930 “C”, see ser #1003500)

PAS c. ‘67 to ‘93. Car has ‘30 B rdstr body and ‘30 A engine #300523.

Here is the info on you “C” engine:

1930 C 132-in wheelbase, 1003853 102558 Sedan McPherson (College)

Here is the no on you “B” engine – from a 1932 P-A:

1932 54 137-in wheelbase, 1050363 230080 Sedan (Past Owner) Feusi, Robert J., 7600 Red Bud Rd., Roseville, CA, 95661 c. ’69-’87. (deceased)

I hope this is helpful.

Peter

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There are a few things going on with that eBay listing.

The opening price on the car is a bit steep and no reserve (?).

The car has obviously been through a number of “collectors” and it sounds as though the seller is a dealer and not a Pierce-Arrow guy.

The seller does not list the engine or body S/Ns so there is no way to track the car through the PAS unless someone happens to recognize it.

It does appear to be a “nice” looking car but i would think that more info is necessary to get someone to make the first leap and offer the initial $80K with the prospects of getting into a bidding duel for the car.

I do not even know if it is “correct” because I am not a 1930-A guy.

Also, what color is it? in one pic it looks blue, in a few others, perhaps burgundy.

From some angles, the paint does not look well done.

I would want to touch it and hear it run before I thought about laying out $80 to $100 large.

If it is a good deal, the snipers will come out to snag it in the last 30-seconds of the auction.

If they don’t come out to snipe, it was not a good deal.

Come to the Buffalo Meet this summer and get to drive some cars so you can find out which you like.

Finally, welcome to the Society!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It is a shame that there are such RATS in our hobby!

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Tom,

On the passenger side of the oil pan there is a stopcock.

Open the stopcock and if oil comes out, the engine has at least sufficient oil.

If not, then add oil until oil comes out of the stopcock.

Do not mistake that SIDE stopcock for the DRAIN stopcock, which resides at the bottom right of the oil pan.

I believe that the Series 80 engine takes about 9-quarts of oil.

A bit more is fine.

Use Diesel Grade oil.

Good luck.

Peter

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West System is also a marine epoxy.

All of the marine epoxy products must survive the world’s most harsh environment, the OCEAN.

You will be fine with whatever brand you choose to use.

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Hey All,

See the Emporium for Non-Member listing for a 1937, 1701, 5-Passenger Sedan.

Also, I think that the Mecum Auction price was close to correct for a respectable driver.

BTW, Tony, how about taking me along for one of those $35K dinners sometime? Maybe we could go to The Four Seasons / George V, in Paris? WOW!

Peter

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BRAVO!

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Michael,

There is a 36 P-A clock on eBay, it is being sold by John Cislak.

It has hands, but they are rough.

It may be worth a look.

Good hunting,

Peter

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That is a WINTERfront, unless I am mistaken.

It was designed to keep the cold air out until the radiator is sufficiently hot to open the louvers (thermostat inside Winterfront) and it will close again if the radiator temp drops sufficiently to cause poor engine performance.

they are interesting to hang on your garage wall for decoration, but since most of us do not drive our P-A cars in the snow, they have little practical use.

Also, per the pic, a Winterfront on a touring car in winter would provide a very chilly ride, even if the engine were toasty.

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Jak,

Maybe the “cut”” before the “”polish”” caused the powder coat to take on a satin finish.

I don’t think that you can buff out powder coat because it is not officially “”paint.””

I believe it is a thermoplastic or a thermoset polymer.

Maybe you need toothpaste or a plastic polish to make it shine.

What do you think mate?

Peter

“

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Is their slogan, “You Stab ‘Em, We Slab ‘Em”?

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Do you know if Mr. Gil was an Attorney?

Now, that would be one-stop shopping!

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From now on, I’m sticking to comments about Series 80 cars, and FYI, I was wrong on both counts.

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David,

I did some searching for Lewis Buckles, Chicago, and it is reported that they did a slew of reproductions and “Fakes-of-Fakes” in the 1960s or so, when there was a “belt buckle” craze.

It is not at all clear that our lovely G. N. Pierce belt buckles are reproductions rather than fakes-of-fakes, but they remain interesting and are at least 50-years-old.

BTW, no need to have concern.

Peter

http://newsok.com/belt-buckle-just-a-fake-of-a-fake/article/2303132

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AH, Sunday Morning goofing off,

Here is more on Carl Nickum from Motorcycle Illustrated, 12 October, 1916.

MAIN BUYS OUT NICKUM, WAUKEGAN Ill

M. T. Main has purchased the business of Carl Nickum, at 131 South Genesee Street and will continue to handle the Harley Davidson for 1917. He will also sell bicycles and accordingly has closed with the Excelsior folks to handle their wheels. Main sells on time asking one half down and the balance at the rate of $1 per week

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Hello All,

Here is Carl Nickum, or at least his US Patent.

It looks a lot like what people use today to do quick fixes on flat tires.

Only one page posts, so you can find the others by doing a search for US Patent #1,363,163.

Peter

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