[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Numerous heat cycles are necessary to set the hoses so that they do not leak.

You tighten the clamp a bit after each cycle.

I use modern S-S band hose clamps until the hoses set and then replaced them with the wire clamps.

There are fewer leaks this way as the wire clamps seem to be difficult for me to position correctly / snug sufficiently to initially set the modern non-natural rubber hoses.

As per the way this message board works, others will doubtless offer opinions and perhaps other more effective solutions to avoid the initial leaking problems with the wire clamps.

Also note the the clamps that I use seem to work the opposite of those shown above, in that the screw DRAWS /

PULLS the clamp tighter rather than PUSHING the clamp tighter.

I do not know which clamp is more correct or effective, but with with the clamps I use there is not an excess of screw hanging off one side when snuggled. It startles the center section.

Tomorrow, I will post a pic of the type of clamp that I use.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ed,

WOW, what a find!

Peter

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To follow up on Bill Rolapp’s comment, it would be GREAT if you submitted the description of your project, with pics, to Arnold Romberg for publication in the PAS Service bulletin.

It is an impressive piece of work and demonstration of same.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Optima has agreed to support our members and this website with a great deal on their 6-volt battery. The promotion is set to run from March 1-30th, is not stackable with any other offer, is only good for 6-volt batteries with a maximum of two per purchase and limited to Pierce Arrow Society members only.

From now until March 30th, members of the Pierce Arrow Society, who purchase a 6-volt RedTop battery online at shop.optimabatteries.com will receive special pricing of $100 per battery (normally $169.99) and free shipping right to their front door in the lower 48 states, by entering a unique coupon code when purchasing factory-direct at shop.optimabatteries.com .

Here is how the process works:

1. If you want the deal, send an e-mail requesting a unique one-time use coupon code to [email protected]

2. You will receive a unique one-time-use code that will be valid until 3/30 only. Codes will be invalid after Midnight on 3/30.

3. Once you receive your code, you will need to go to the Optima shopping site at https://www.optimabatteries.com…op-starting-battery/

4. Add the 6-volt battery (up to 2) part # 6V (8010-044) and go to the checkout cart

5. Here’s the important part: Enter your unique code that will calculate your discount on the Billing page of the check-out.

6. Finalize your order

7. Wait for your “Factory Fresh” Optima RedTop 6 volt to arrive at your door (usually within 4 days of your order).

This offer is limited to two batteries per household and will expire on March 30, 2015. This offer is only available on OPTIMA RedTop 6-volt batteries purchased directly from shop.optimabatteries.com .

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks Henry,

This is what the AACA wrote about Steve’s and Bob’s efforts.

“A Feeling for French Cars”, Steve Rossi

M. J. Duryea Memorial Cup

Steve is one of our most read columnist on the staff of Antique Automobile. His lifelong love affair

shows in the stories he writes and his long career in the automotive industry obviously helps him with his topics. The column about French cars was superbly detailed and caused a lot of interest and letters from our members.

“American Automobiles of the Brass Era”, Robert Dluhy

Thomas McKean Memorial Cup

This book with all its fantastic research had to have hurt his eyesight. Thousands of specifications are in one book and will be a treasured resource for brass car guys for a long time to come.

Again, Congratulations Gents!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hello everyone,

FYI, Fay Butler is involved with the McPherson College folks, so at a minimum they have access to the Premiere Sheet Metal Fabricator in the Collector Car Hobby.

With this forum, they even have access to the vast opinions of the members of the PAS on matters other than body work.

Peter

PS: Tony, EONS are a long time from now, eh? Now THAT is survivability!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Scott,

The temptation to turn a lesser car into a more valuable one has been going on since the creation of Used Car Dealers!

BTW, when last I looked, the car was no longer listed on eBay.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Garrick,

Here is the info on your “A” engine

1930 A 144-in wheelbase, 300523 (Engine installed in Ray Rylander’s 1930 “C”, see ser #1003500)

PAS c. ‘67 to ‘93. Car has ‘30 B rdstr body and ‘30 A engine #300523.

Here is the info on you “C” engine:

1930 C 132-in wheelbase, 1003853 102558 Sedan McPherson (College)

Here is the no on you “B” engine – from a 1932 P-A:

1932 54 137-in wheelbase, 1050363 230080 Sedan (Past Owner) Feusi, Robert J., 7600 Red Bud Rd., Roseville, CA, 95661 c. ’69-’87. (deceased)

I hope this is helpful.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

There are a few things going on with that eBay listing.

The opening price on the car is a bit steep and no reserve (?).

The car has obviously been through a number of “collectors” and it sounds as though the seller is a dealer and not a Pierce-Arrow guy.

The seller does not list the engine or body S/Ns so there is no way to track the car through the PAS unless someone happens to recognize it.

It does appear to be a “nice” looking car but i would think that more info is necessary to get someone to make the first leap and offer the initial $80K with the prospects of getting into a bidding duel for the car.

I do not even know if it is “correct” because I am not a 1930-A guy.

Also, what color is it? in one pic it looks blue, in a few others, perhaps burgundy.

From some angles, the paint does not look well done.

I would want to touch it and hear it run before I thought about laying out $80 to $100 large.

If it is a good deal, the snipers will come out to snag it in the last 30-seconds of the auction.

If they don’t come out to snipe, it was not a good deal.

Come to the Buffalo Meet this summer and get to drive some cars so you can find out which you like.

Finally, welcome to the Society!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It is a shame that there are such RATS in our hobby!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tom,

On the passenger side of the oil pan there is a stopcock.

Open the stopcock and if oil comes out, the engine has at least sufficient oil.

If not, then add oil until oil comes out of the stopcock.

Do not mistake that SIDE stopcock for the DRAIN stopcock, which resides at the bottom right of the oil pan.

I believe that the Series 80 engine takes about 9-quarts of oil.

A bit more is fine.

Use Diesel Grade oil.

Good luck.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

West System is also a marine epoxy.

All of the marine epoxy products must survive the world’s most harsh environment, the OCEAN.

You will be fine with whatever brand you choose to use.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hey All,

See the Emporium for Non-Member listing for a 1937, 1701, 5-Passenger Sedan.

Also, I think that the Mecum Auction price was close to correct for a respectable driver.

BTW, Tony, how about taking me along for one of those $35K dinners sometime? Maybe we could go to The Four Seasons / George V, in Paris? WOW!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

BRAVO!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Michael,

There is a 36 P-A clock on eBay, it is being sold by John Cislak.

It has hands, but they are rough.

It may be worth a look.

Good hunting,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

That is a WINTERfront, unless I am mistaken.

It was designed to keep the cold air out until the radiator is sufficiently hot to open the louvers (thermostat inside Winterfront) and it will close again if the radiator temp drops sufficiently to cause poor engine performance.

they are interesting to hang on your garage wall for decoration, but since most of us do not drive our P-A cars in the snow, they have little practical use.

Also, per the pic, a Winterfront on a touring car in winter would provide a very chilly ride, even if the engine were toasty.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jak,

Maybe the “cut”” before the “”polish”” caused the powder coat to take on a satin finish.

I don’t think that you can buff out powder coat because it is not officially “”paint.””

I believe it is a thermoplastic or a thermoset polymer.

Maybe you need toothpaste or a plastic polish to make it shine.

What do you think mate?

Peter

“

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Is their slogan, “You Stab ‘Em, We Slab ‘Em”?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Do you know if Mr. Gil was an Attorney?

Now, that would be one-stop shopping!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

From now on, I’m sticking to comments about Series 80 cars, and FYI, I was wrong on both counts.

[Author]

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