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Andrew,
I believe that I previously contacted you about wanting one, so please reserve one for me.
Thank you,
Peter
Rob,
Those connectors are pretty standard for old cars that had distributors.
You need to go to Restoration Supply to find most of what you need.
Below is a link to get you close to what you are describing.
Questions? Post them.
Cheers,
Peter
https://restorationstuff.com/shop/#fb0=5
Gents and Ladies,
The OPTIMA, 6V, RedTop BATTERY DEAL is DONE for 2021!
Let us hope that Optima Jim / Optima Battery will run The Deal again next year.
Thank you for your participation.
Peter
David,
My Trimmer License was taken away from me because of my use of squishy words.
Cheers,
Peter
Gents and Ladies,
The OPTIMA 6V RedTop BATTERY DEAL ENDS TONIGHT @ MIDNIGHT!
Get your Batteries while there is time remaining, otherwise you will have to wait until 2022.
Cheers,
Peter
Hello Gents,
I agree with David.
The top material on my Series 80 is slightly squishy on the top, and the squishiness reduces as it heads around the side radius that goes to the drip edge.
By the time the material reaches 1.5 to 2-inches above the drip edge, it seems to be glued directly to the top’s sheet metal.
Also, how thick is the top material, as it appears to be a bit thick?
I’ll root around for a piece of the material that’s on my top (I think that I’ve seen it somewhere in the past 5-years) and send you a small piece.
I recall that it is about the thickness of construction paper, but of course much more flexible.
I hope that this helps.
Peter
Tony,
Did you have any luck by calling Optima to figure out how to have the battery delivered to your home?
I recall that I was once a visitor to your homestead with Col. George on one of the Modoc Tour weeks.
I recall a passel of barns, sheds and car trailers, each filled with an Absolutely Glorious pre-war vehicle.
You have a nice, but largely hidden, collection of beautiful motorcars.
OOPS, the secret is no longer a secret!
You better stop feeding those Junkyard Dogs so that they can aggressively fend off any potential vehicle snatchers.
Cheers,
Peter
Jason,
BTW, the top material is Not the correct pattern, but it was installed in the late 1980s and that was what was available at the time when my Uncle Joe owned the Pierce.
Peter
Jason,
I attach a photo for your review.
The top drip molding runs from the top of the rear window (it drops a bit down around the curve of the rear window), up and around the windshield and back to and around the top edge of rear window on the other side of the car.
You cannot see any tacks when you look at the molding.
If you want more detail, be in touch via email at [email protected].
Cheers,
Peter
Jason,
There are a lot of Series 80 Gents out here who have a good stash of parts, whether they admit it or not!
When you get together a list of parts, you might post what you need and maybe someone will cough one up.
A Barn Find Series 80, DeLuxe is a gem, so go slow in any refurbishment.
Also, get that Puppy to some PAS Meets.
Be in touch and show us some photos.
Peter
Jason,
That is a very nice Series 80, DeLuxe Sedan! A Great Car!
I love its original condition and color. Excellent!
The material on your top looks like naugahyde (thick) and not what the PAMCC installed.
The tacks holding it on look to be the size of dimes, well, smaller, but they are still pretty big.
I will take a look at mine later today, or tomorrow, and send you a photo or two.
The original material was a lizard skin style material, or something like that pattern of material.
Regarding the drip edge, well, I’ll look at that later and determine if I can determine how it is attached.
You also seem to be missing the front windshield visor.
Do you have that piece?
There are a bunch of Series 80 Boys in the PAS, so I am confident others will chime in!
More later.
Peter
Tony,
Your address is listed as a PO Box.
Is that what you are using to have the Optima delivered?
If so, that may be the problem, as I can only get mail and SOME packages sent there.
For certain things I order, they need to go to a Physical Address, especially if they are Hazardous in any way, shape or form.
Check it out.
Peter
Robert,
Have you ever tried to run a Hot Radiator Flush with your radiator?
In my early days of owning Chauncey, my Series 80, I had cooling problems that I could not solve.
I ran Radiator Flush through it, idled for an hour or so, drained it and refilled with water.
It was better, but not superb.
Before the next driving season, I removed the radiator (not a really big job) and bought 6-gallons of 10-Mol Acetic Acid (vinegar), laid the radiator across two sawhorses, boiled a large pot of water, poured some of it into the bottom radiator pipe (with the top pipe plugged with a rubber bung), added one or two gallons of the Vinegar and let it sit for 30-minutes.
I then bunged the bottom pipe, stood it in end (top up) and pulled the bottom bung and flushed it with warm water.
I repeated the process two more times.
Finally, I flushed it with Cold hose water.
Of course, I was wearing expendable clothes and industrial grade rubber gloves.
That did the trick.
Over the years, the radiator apparently accumulated serious globs of water pump grease at the bottom that wouldn’t completely dissolve through normal running.
Normal hot flushing of the radiator while on the car wouldn’t even touch the grease, let alone dissolve it.
After that intervention, Chauncey ran very Cool and then I acquired a Greaseless Bering water pump, so no more grease accumulation at the bottom of the radiator.
Now, that water pump is out for a rebuild (after 8-years of run time) because it was weeping ever so slightly, and I have a Grease Bearing type holding the water in place. I haven’t driven the car much since I removed the other pump, but I will in the next few weeks.
Just a few thoughts on the matter, even if when you drain your radiator the water “appears” to be clean, you may have accumulated grease in the bottom of your radiator.
Keep us posted!
Cheers,
Peter
Hello Robert,
Have you pulled your thermostat and tested it in boiling water?
Perhaps that is the cause.
I had an overheating problem in my Series 80 (non-pressurized system) and I recall that pulling and testing the thermostat was one of the routines through which I cycled before attaining success.
Perhaps if the thermostat functions properly, you need a Lower Temperature thermostat, or a Higher Temperature thermostat.
If you use the Stovetop testing method, be sure that you have a kitchen thermometer in the water with the P-A thermostat to determine the temperature at which it opens.
If you test it in the car, the thermometer will still provide useful data, and more data are helpful.
Again, I believe that if your water-pump runs well and not leaking, your radiator is not leaking and everything else (that you can see) seems fine, then you need to test your thermostat to see if it is either Not-Opening, or Not-Closing.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Peter
Robert and David,
As you both likely know, the reason to NOT use regular Ethyl Glycol coolant, at least in unpressurized cooling systems, is because it FOAMS UP and gets sucked out of the radiator, thereby causing both overheating and a series mess.
Perhaps, the newer Pierce-Arrow cars can handle the Ethyl Glycol mixture because you Gents have pressurized systems.
I offer this information for the Greenhorns and not for the Old Hands.
I used both the Pencool and the Napa products with good cooling results and without boil-overs.
I also do a radiator flush every year or so and everything comes out looking clean, mostly clear and without rust.
Peter
Gents and Ladies,
I will appreciate it if everyone who takes advantage of The Optima Battery Deal posts a blurb like; “I GOT ONE TOO!” on this Message Board.
By doing so, the posting will stay at the TOP of the Message Board Listing and provide better visibility for members.
Further, I will not have to come back here every three days to get it back up to the top.
Cheers,
Peter
David,
That is great information and I would only add that I believe one uses a High Quality, Very Fine, Natural Bristle Brush.
Most paint brushes these days are polyester bristle and that is NOT what one wants to use when using Spar Varnish, or any other sort of varnish.
I too varnished a good amount of mahogany on my 30-foot sloop.
The varnish needs to be redone / touched-up each year, but it is THE thing to use if you love your sailing or power craft.
Apropos of wheels, those on my Series 80 have been painted for at least 50-years, and likely much longer.
Peter
Craig,
I believe that the headlamp Lenes on the Series 80 & 81 are different sizes.
The Series 80 runs Bausch & Lomb, 8-⅜” lenses (not the B&L STAR lenses).
I DK the size of those on the Series 81, but I believe that they are smaller.
Peter
Gents & Ladies,
The OPTIMA DEAL IS ON STARTING TODAY!
Get them while they are available (Until Friday, 2 April @ 12:00 midnight).
See the Emporium for Details!
Peter
Tony & PAS Gents & Ladies,
It is always a good thing for me, through Optima Jim, to make you and other PAS members SMILE 😉 with this offering.
The Optima, RedTop 6V Battery Deal begins in THREE DAYS (Monday, 22 March) and runs through 12:00 Midnight on Friday, 2 April.
Don’t procrastinate, buy early and you can buy; ONE, TWO or THREE Optima, RedTop 6V Batteries at a Great Price with Free Shipping to your designated address.
See The Emporium listing for Details!
Cheers,
Peter
