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Greg I agree on the advantage of proper operating temp (i.e. not too cold). The thermostat I added to the Series 80 has a couple holes drilled as you state and the temp comes right up but I haven’t overheated so far. It did great in St. Louis last year.

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Dave, I had may radiator rebuilt/recored and I understand the new core is cellular, but a different cell from the original. I did not remove the shutter device. I know the shutter thermostat does not work so it will need repair but it seems a good time to add a normal thermostat to the coolant outlet on the engine, IF this is one recommended way to best control engine temp, which is why I asked.

Dave, Peter: I hear/read regularly about coolant puking. My Series 80 has never done this but it does have a modern 160 F thermostat in the engine coolant outlet.

I have to think a while about the situation described: the engine slows suddenly, which means the pump slows also, which means the flow slows, but the increased flow overfills the top tank of the radiator. Maybe the issue is: the engine has internal heat content and flow at a fairly high level due to being under load, but the coolant flow suddenly slows, causing the coolant in contact with the hot internal engine surfaces to locally overheat and boil, burping/pushing coolant toward the radiator mostly toward the top but likely in both directions? I know flathead engines put a lot of heat into the cooling system when loaded, compared to ohv engines. This could be a phenomenon enabled or aggravated by the cooling system not being pressurized, as pressure will increase the boiling temp. An orifice in the engine outlet to the radiator would certainly slow whatever flow is being pushed that direction, no doubt. If there is localized sudden boiling in the engine block or head, it would push coolant toward the only way out: toward the radiator top.

In summary of what I read here: the bellows systems which position the shutters seem to be troublesome and expensive to set right, and frequently the shutters are opened and left that way, and that will work for me. I am studying the shutter systems and will perhaps repair mine once I understand them better. Thanks everyone!

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Thank you for all the information! The front seal on mine seems to not be leaking, but I know the rear was bad.

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This is interesting! Can you post more photos of your work?

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I opine in general here: while the 60 degree included angle is technically perfect in terms of even firing for the V-twelve, often compromises are made for other reasons. In this case, perhaps making more room in the included angle for the manifolds, at the expense of very minor vibrations. Ease and expense of manufacture could also be factors. A search of SAE technical papers often reveals a design analysis of a new engine of significance authored by the proud “father”” (designer). I will search and see what there might be.”

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Agree: good, strong unit, very well made. I just need to change the seals in mine and would like some service literature if I can find it. sometimes I realize that not only do I need service literature, I enjoy the search also.

Thanks!

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You should talk to a craftsman like Member Sean Ornduff; I know these are regularly fabbed up.

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I believe someone is reproducing the end caps. I know I need a set.

My 1927 Series 80’s tubular bumpers were made by Balcrank and are so marked. They began business making crank handles for machine tools, then moved into automobile bumpers and accessories. They are still in business, but today they make hose reel dispensers for service stations, quick-lubes, etc.

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Just proves: the sun never sets on PIERCE-ARROW.

All the choices were great!

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I looked this afternoon, and the wire has been spliced at appeoximately the end of the flex shield. The visible part is 10 ga Belden, fabric-covered wire, black. I plan to pull a new wire, presumably from the ammeter to the generator it is one piece, far as I can tell.

Thanks a bunch! The best way to learn about them is to work on them ( with plenty of backup from Forum Friends of course).

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Mine ate steel, I had assumed they were aluminum when I saw shiny blades on other Pierces. Thanks!

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If the blades are aluminum, only a polish would be needed.

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So the Series 43 fan is painted all over? Seems the same fan, though… I should have gone for the 42 at least!

Thanks!

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On my Car, the inner baffle is a strip of stainless steel sheet which is tack-welded along the top edge and serves to somewhat divert the water flow from the pump to disburse it better: very simple but I am not certain this is the correct original design. I do not have problems with overheating. Another Member may have a photo to better-illustrate this for you.

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I forgot to look at your Lincoln at Rohnert Park; I really like those.

My Dad had a 1972 Buick Electra 225 that used a double joint on the differential end of the drive shaft. I remember replacing it once.

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Depends on the condition of course, but when the plate on my Series 80’s engine developed a leak, I removed it and found on the inside a collection of gunk with corrosion underneath. I cleaned it up and had a welder run a bead over the perforations on the inside, then reinstalled it, and Bob’s your uncle, as they say in England: leaks stopped.

A servicable plate is not that hard to fabricate: remember the water baffle on the inside which forces the coolant flow to distribute better, and realize the spacing of the bolt holes is not exactly regular.

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One should never open links in emails of suspicious origin. If necessary contact the party directly.

And one should be highly suspicious…

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Thanks, Peter. I needed a center pan for my Series 80. Greg rode to the rescue yet again, and provided a serviceable used item which I forwarded to Sean Ornduff to use as a pattern to form a duplicate.

The wrench was found in a 1931 Series 43. The pans are intact and with a little straightening and paint, will look great.

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Yep, these Cars have been through a lot over the years. It’s amazing any survived!

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Electric schematic?

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