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seems the zinc issue affects mostly high-compression engines beginning in the 1950s, with strong valve springs and high cam loading. As was stated earlier, all Pierces were built before zinc oil additives were in motor oil anyway, so I don’t worry about it. Whatever I put in it (I use Shell Rotella 30-weight) is so much better than anything available in the pre-WWII era anyway, and no oil will make up for a worn-out engine or one with too much sludge and dirt.

Enjoy your car; that’s what it was made for, and it will help preserve it to exercise it!

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We have very mild winters typically but can have the occasional cold snap with a drop below freezing. It has been rare but not unheard of to have temperatures in the teens for a brief time. I am certain my fears are overblown, yet it is difficult to maintain perspective.

One thing to remember about anti-freeze solution is that the freeze temperature they quote is a “slush freeze”, not a solid freeze. I run a less than 50% solution which still protects from any temperature we are likely to see in my area. There is a reduction in cooling due to antifreeze, but it is less than it would be with a 50% solution.

 

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I’ve been using old-style, partly because it seems to have a more known history, and partly that is what is recommended most by the Silver Shadow folks somit works for everything old. I run it in the Series 80 with no apparent problems.

I am prepared to put water + corrosion inhibitor in the ‘31 but I have a lingering fear a moment of inattention could so easily result in disaster during a cold snap, although our winters tend to be mild and it has indoor storage with heat.

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Hi, Dave, my only freewheel is on the ’31 and I have never really driven it, so… but I see only limited if any value in it apart from the historical aspect. Later cars with overdrive are as you say, different, and I missed this part of his question entirely…

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Thanks for the roof repair thread; this is interesting and useful information. There is a video of a Ford Model A top replacement on YouTube which might help us amateurs.
As for the free wheeling: forget it and drive it like it is- a manual transmission. It was a mildly interesting attempt at creating something to market cars during the Depression, pre-automatic. Didn’t last long which speaks volumes.</p>

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Better yet: transmission back in place…

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great work! Thanks for sharing!

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Indeed! Kathy and I had a great weekend; thanks to Dave and Diana, and all who played a part.

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I thought about wiring in a temporary generic device in lieu of the normal controls, I just don’t have a good enough knowledge of the way Pierce was controlling things.  Will study and see what I can come up with. My new wiring harness has a lot of disconnected ends so I am basically leaving it disconnected from any power for now. I don’t have the transmission and drive shaft installed so I’m not taking a road trip anyway.

A lot of first starts I’ve see take place without any coolant in the engine, and I can’t do that; it goes against the way I think, you might say. At least I will have plenty of oil and coolant (plain water with corrosion inhibitor, for now at least).

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I understand; thank you!

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Looks like about the most thorough flush it is possible to do!

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Hi, Andrew, and welcome! That Series 80 is a fine, durable car, and the open models are special fun.

I met Luke at Angola and admired his car; a sad story with a great outcome. You will have many happy times with the Series 80 and there are a lot of resources here to assist you. I know this from personal experience!

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The 1929 colors included Sapphire blue with black fenders; the 1930 colors continued the sapphire blue/black combination, and added blue moss/black, and blue hour/Botticelli blue combos.

From the colors I found underneath later paint on my ’31, I believe it and Mark’s car may be the Amherst blue/black combo.

The 1932 lineup had Pierce-Arrow blue upper and lower with black moulding and a silver stripe; and clipper blue No. 3 upper and lower, with clipper blue #4 on the moulding, and a brown stripe, so that looks like it might be the combo on Ryan’s Car.

Mark, I just got my car’s engine out of the shop after a complete rebuild. It ran OK but it was just worn out and I don’t want any trouble if I can help it.

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I like this car; obviously you either bought it or were offering it for sale. I am in recovery or I would have bought it…thanks Mark!

It seems equipped like my example:

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Thanks, everyone. I have anything already on the internet. I was hoping for a photo of a car.

This is one 1931 Series 43 photo I have:

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Thank you all for your help! Yes, I see I have a missing part; I seem to have the steel part underneath the center of the chrome part, as is visible in Mark’s photo, but my chrome part is missing.

I will obviously need to search for this part. Of course, if anyone has or finds one for sale, I am interested.

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David White pretty-much covered the topic as I was planning, so I erased the paragraph I drafted in favor of “ditto””. Keep it full of clean oil and try not to worry so much that you can’t enjoy it. It will be OK.”

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Did Pierce use roller tappets in all the later cars, as in my Series 80?

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Parts for the Marvel inverse oilers can be obtained from: George Folchi

email [email protected] phone 8603555706. He also has parts for AMPCO units.

Even the replacement decal is available, but I don’t have full contact info yet.

Note that my only interest in this is to help someone who may encounter one of these and need parts or help.

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Merry Christmas to all from sunny northern Louisiana, basking in the 70s!

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