Locating serial numbers for Engine block and chassis on the ’33 Model 836 Brougham

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  • #406245

    Hi Karl thanks for the info. I called Larry Symons 818-704-9434 fax 818-887-1602 http://www.socalccca.org Southern California Region CCCA, and Larry tells me he gave it up and sold it to Steve.

    I’ve looked on http://www.pulferandwilliams.com/Pierce-Arrow/ and the closest tag I see is #5 which looks good but it says Travelodge at the top. I’m guessing that’s a trailer? Anyway I have messages into them to see if they have the car chassis tag.

    I’m told there is a big car show on somewhere which most of these folks are likely at. So far it’s all coming back full circle to Steve unless I’m missing something. Corrections invited. The adventure continues…

    #406247

    Brian, I have an extra one if you need it, contact me at [email protected]

    #406248

    There is one on eBay.

    #406251

    Thanks to David I’ll have the tag Thursday. Many thanks Dave!

    Turns out most of the vendors are at the Amelia Island, FLA car show. I got an email back from Steve@vaultcars about an hour after arrangements were started with David.

    Now i just need to figure out how to rivet it in place in the authentic manner.

    Again the power and synergy of the PAS comes to the rescue! Thanks everyone for sticking with me on this!

    #406249

    I suggest threaded rivets from Restoration Supply Co. They have an unslotted head, but are threaded for a standard nut. They can later be removed without damaging the plate, which is nearly impossible with the original “drive”” rivets.”

    #406252

    Hi Bob, Thanks for this. By any chance would you know the size of the rivets I could order now?

    I wish the car were right here in my garage/shop. At the moment it’s stored somewhere else and with the cold weather I’ve not been able to free up a garage bay for it. None of my cars or tractors ever sit outside.

    #406254

    Brian,

    Use the 10-32 threaded rivets #12 is really what you need but I couldn’t find them without buying a box of 100, same with the nuts. #12 anything seems to be pretty much obsolete now. 1/4″ is too large unless you want to drill out the holes and they might look too bulky. Jim”

    #413330

    Brian, now I’m curious, since I got involved in this! When you said it’s “holding up sale”, does that mean you have a live buyer on the line, or that you need the tag in place to be able to transfer paperwork when someone buys it? just curious…

    #406259

    Jim, thanks for the info. Looks like a friend who’s into vintage farm power machinary is set up to stamp the tag and rivet it in place for me.

    David, I have accepted a conditional offer for it. I don’t want to jynx it. I will certainly share the details once the conditions are cleared and sale is complete. Thanks.

    #406260

    Brian, no details needed, just make sure that if the new owner isn’t in the PAS have them join! Glad you’re on your way to finding a good home for it….

    #406453

    Folks, the car is sold and in transit to its new owner in New Zealand. He will be joining PAS shortly and should have the car in 3-4 weeks. I’m going to miss it as I got attached to it working on it picking up where my stepdad left off. Alas I have a few other expensive hobbies to fill my time (a motorbike and seriously debilitating HAM radio fettish to mention a few).

    I would really like to extend my thanks to all of you for your interest, support and all the info.

    This is a great group of folks!

    #406454

    Best of luck to you Brian and thanks for recommending the PAS to the new owner.

    John

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