In the PASB 1968-4 Otto Klausmeyer mentioned that he had the paint tinting formulas, have they been printed anywhere? I’m interested in the Maroons. Jim
Hi Jim, we just bought another touring car. While talking to some of the Pebble Beach judges they commented…………..PLEASE don’t paint it maroon or silver………..we sure are tired of those colors!. While I paint my cars any color I please, and anyone who has seen my 36 1602 club sedan will agree…….. there are a lot of cars out there in that color. While I think most 29’s should be conservative and tasteful, many people do the earth tones and they look very good. Most importantly, paint it the way you like it. Good luck, Ed.
Having just gone through years of interesting volumes of the Service Bulletin, I believe you will find many, but not all, of the formulas in PASB 75-4.
Thanks I’ll look at those. I was thinking Maroon with Black fenders and accents but maybe I should rethink that. I wouldn’t want to be driving it and have another one the same color pull up next to me.
Jim, I agree you may want to look at the 29 and 30 touring cars that are finished, it’s nice to have a color that sets the car off from the crowd. Ed.
By the way, as a Pierce-Arrow buyer, you could have any exterior color you wished, you just had to order it rather than to buy the Pierce-Arrow off of the sales floor done in standard colors.
The PAMCC would totally accommodate buyer’s preferences in exterior paint color and interior finishes.
Just ask Bill Rolapp, who did his his 1930, Model C in a “standard” color and personalized interior finishes from the PAMCC option book, like the totally grey leather interior on an enclosed car.
Maroon is maroon, but I am sure you can find something that is a bit more striking, just as long as you are willing and interested in owning a striking motorcar.
That stated, I would stay away from Canary Yellow.
As another note, you might wish to review the pics of the winners of the past PAS Meets for color combos.
There is a HUGE range in colors on cars in the PAS in your 1930 range.
Some are quite subtle and others are, well, err, not subtle.
It is most important that you like the color you choose and have fun with it.
Whatever you choose will be wonderful and I look forward to seeing the finished product.
I have a 29 Phaeton and am in the exact situation as you. My car is not painted as of yet. I found colors I loved looked totally differant in non metalic. The color was the same, but the lack of metalic left the color lifeless and flat. No matter how many coats of clear.
I found that selecting a color that will comand attention without drawing in the circus clowns was a difficult task.
Im a firm believer that you should pait your car the color YOU want. With that said, its like painting your house, be sure on what you select because its not easy to change and you have to live with it a long long time.
Best of luck. Rick
The colors you pick, have to satisfy only you, but for a LONG LONG time. Best of luck. Rick
That ’35 Pierce coupe with the rear mounted spare used to be mine, it’s more of a cream color than the picture shows…the picture makes it look almost white..man, miss that car!!
Nice looking car. You pulled off the colors very well. Super nice!!!
Go to your hardware store and get 5 or 6 sheets of galvanised steel (very thin) and prepare them with primer as you would your car. Then have your painter paint and buff as he would a final coat for your car. Try 4 or 5 shades of the colors you like best. Try primers in BLACK and WHITE. The results may be surprising. Some paints are cheaper because they have less pigment in them, however the result may be better than the more exspensive paints. PPG bought all the formulas and color chips from the early masters and can ‘read’ your old color chips and recognise your formulas, if you are trying to hit original colors. Be sure to get the pin striping correct. Many restorers won’t use pinstripes. Too bad as they bring back the true style and age of the car. If you use lacquer you get a very shiny paint, but it forms small cracks over time and you will find yourself constantly waxing and polishing. Enamel used with certian colors can be long lasting and beautiful, but will not be as satisfying with certain colors or pigments. Two stage will generally be the best choice but your painter has to be willing to do it right, lots of coats, each one sanded down like silk until the last one, and then only two coats of clear coat. More coats than that may crack and peal. The stripped metal of the car must never ‘see’ gasoline or any oil. The paint primer won’t stick well. I am not a painter but worked closely with mine. I had 6 shades of blue testing my final car color. It is not an easy task, but more important than almost any other part of the restoration.
Agree on the pinstripes, they can really accent a car. My personal preference is fairly thin stripes (if you ever look at original striping it is rarely wide), and in my opinion it must be done freehand with a brush. No roller wheel, no tape. If there are imperfections doing it by hand, that is all the more character to the car, and with a good striper they are small if any….my Pierce was pinstriped by an artist who lives south of me, he’s literally blind in one eye, and has to use a loupe and a strong light, with his face almost touching the metal, to pinstripe…scary, but he did (and does) beautiful work….