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Diana,

One of our members in Charlotte, Dave Benson is going to contact her.

Dave

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Diana,

I received the same request. I guess she is covering all of her bases.  We have one member in the Charlotte area with cars, I have e-mailed him to see if he is interested.

Dave

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Robert,

Heat is usually the key.  Keep the puller on and heat and cool and reheat the hub.  Ideally heating it with a torch works fastest but of course you run the chance of paint damage, otherwise use a heat gun. It takes a long time to heat the entire hub.  Keep the pressure on. While you’ve got it heated,  give the outside end of the puller center bolt some good hits with a hammer, often times the hub will pop off.

I have heard that loosening the nut a little and driving it around with the puller on sometimes works but I have never tried it.

I noticed in your photos that the axle nut is not on the axle.  When you are using a wheel puller, you should leave the nut at the outer end of the axle threads.  There are two reasons for this.  The first is that the tapered end of the center bolt can swell the end of the axle and you won’t be able to get the nut back on.  The other reason is that many times when the hub breaks loose, it does so explosively.  I have seen a pulled brake drum come off and fly completely across the shop and leave a dent in the far wall.

Good luck, let us know what finally works.

Dave

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Bill,

Is this what you are looking for?

 

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Don,

Did you use any sort of radiator flush or evapo rust?  Looks like the stocking worked well.

 

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Karl,

You are putting some of those king size Peanut Butter cups in the Meet goody bags, right?

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Bill, it certainly is.  It is a fairly heavy piece of metal.  I have never hand cranked a Pierce, but I would think it would take a pretty good heave to get all that mass turning enough to start it.

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Art,

Below are some photos of the crank from my Series 36. I do NOT know if this is the same as a Series 80.  The length is 10″ from the center of the square hole to the end of the crank arm.  The square hole is 3/4″ between the flats.  The 10″ arm gives about 1  1/2″ of clearance to the slash apron covering the frame.  The offset is 3″.  I would think some measuring would tell you if this would work on your Series 80.

Greg should know better if the S 80 crank is different.

 

Dave

 

 

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Sorry, I worded that poorly.  How about; Looking from above, turn the main jet screw clockwise to lean.

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Larry,

George brought up a really good point about running your car slightly rich.  The dual valve sixes have a tendency to crack around the exhaust valves when hot so running them lean (hot) is not a good thing.  I set my base mixture on a level road near sea level at part throttle. Anytime I am going up a hill or pulling hard, I run the mixture richer. Check your spark plugs under different conditions to see if you are running it OK. Don’t let the car idle for any time before pulling the plugs or you will be seeing the idle mixture. Ideally, having an exhaust gas analyzer that you can use on the road would be the best way to check.

It sounds like you have experience with non synchro boxes, so practice is a good thing. Every car shifts differently with different gear ratios and different gear spacing. Every time I change cars, I have to readjust my pause time and engine revs for that car. My two Series 36 cars shift differently because the Runabout has a higher geared rear end than the touring car.

I will add to George’s comments about oil that you can change the shift characteristics by changing the viscosity of the oil. Heavier oil = quicker shift action needed.  I like to pause my shifts a little longer (not good for uphill up shifts) than George so I run a slightly thinner oil.  Gear oils are an entire subject on their own. 250 weight gear oil is getting harder to find in any quantity less than 55 gal. I have been looking for several years for a 5 gallon pail.

You make a comment about slow going up hills.  Your car should do well going up hill compared most cars of the era.  Perhaps the RR you are used to was a more powerful car.  It might be a good idea to check all the ignition settings to make sure that they are correct. Also check your valve clearances. I run the exhaust valves .001″ loose from factory setting.  I have not found that I am holding up other cars going uphill (except for George in his 48hp Dual Valve, it will run just below lift off speed). Are both ignitions working?  My Runabout was running on only one ignition when I got it.  A huge difference when I got both sides working. When you check the ignitions individually, you should get a noticeable RPM drop at idle compared to both on.

Dave

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Mark,

The 1931 Sales Data Book lists the ’31 Model 43, 5 ps. Sedan at 4868 lbs road ready.  With the extra stuff we all carry, I would figure 5000lb.

I purchased a new enclosed trailer last year and did a lot of research on trailers.  At an absolute minimum, you need a 9990 lb GVW rated trailer. Many of the enclosed trailers weigh 4000-5000 lbs empty, so add a 5000 lb car to that plus tools, spare tire (s) and whatever else you carry and you can be at the gross rating of the trailer very quickly.  Some states require a Class A license to tow a trailer of 10,000 lb GVRW or more, so be aware of that.  I got around that problem by having the factory build me a trailer to 12,000 lb (6000 lb axles) specs and rating it at 9990 GVWR.  Some companies will do this, some won’t.  My all aluminum trailer weighs 4300 lb empty.  Mine is 12″ over height for taller cars and 24′ long, so a little extra weight there. An equivalent steel trailer will be 3-500 pounds more.  Open trailers are 1500-2500 lbs less depending on construction.

Don’t skimp on tires, if possible, get one with at least 16″ wheels and step up a size from standard if possible. Some people want 3 axles, I have never had problems with two axles. The big thing with tires is to make sure they are in good condition and that they are properly inflated.  I check my tires with a gauge (and check lug nut tightness) every time I use the trailer and give the tires a “fist bump” every time I stop on the road.

If you are looking at used, you are kind of stuck with however it was built.  Don’t get a 7000 lb GVWR trailer, you will be way overloaded. Make sure it is high enough and long enough for the car and any extra stuff you want to carry.

There are a lot of opinions out there on trailers, so I am sure some others will give their thoughts.

Dave

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Larry,

Clean up shifting on an uphill is a challenge. Depending on the steepness of the hill, as you found, sometimes a straight shift works better.  When double clutching on an uphill/up shift, the shift has to be made slower, as the car is slowing down. Often times the car slows down as much or more than the engine/gears and it is not possible to make a clean shift by double clutching. Speed, steepness of the hill and engine RPM all play into it.  Find some hills of varying steepness and practice on them to see what works best. Sometimes it just isn’t possible to make a clean uphill up shift.  You should be able to make clean down shifts going uphill with a little practice. How much you rev the engine while the clutch is out/trans in neutral makes the difference along with the steepness of the hill and the speed of the car.  Practice, practice……

Perhaps someone that has found a technique that works on uphill shifts will chime in.

There are a number of articles in the service bulletin on adjusting the Series 33 carb.  Use the technical search tool and put “33” in the model box and “carburetor adjustment” in the title box.  I know that issues 1988-6 and 1976-3 have good instructions on adjusting these carbs. It’s not too difficult. There are good diagrams in these articles.

You asked for easy, so first I would suggest trying to adjust the Main Jet on the bottom of the carb before going through the whole adjustment process. First center the dashboard mixture knob. Then make a note of the location of the rod that goes through the main jet screw so you can start over if need be. Loosen the clamp on the main jet screw that connects to the mixture control cable. Turn the main jet screw in a small amount. Tighten the clamp. Take it out and drive it and see if it improves. Keep adjusting until it is not running rich anymore. Vary the mixture control on the dash while driving and once you can get the mixture where you are happy using the mixture knob, pull over, note the position of the through rod, loosen the clamp, center the mixture knob without turning the main jet screw, tighten the clamp and you should be good.

Once you get the carb adjusted where you are happy, I would suggest warming it up and driving it several miles at moderate throttle. Shut the engine off and pull over and pull a spark plug. The insulator should be a tan color if the mixture is correct.

When you go to altitude (unless your are going really high) you should be able to lean enough using the mixture knob.

If this doesn’t solve your problem it is possible your carb needs a more complete adjustment, or there is a problem such as reeds not opening properly or the float level is too high.  You can check the float level through the glass window on the float bowl. One other possibility is the fuel pressure is too high.  The gauge in the car should not show more than 3-4 lbs. The air pump pressure is adjustable.

The majority of the intake air comes through the block into the back of the carb. It enters through a hole behind the water pump and through the oil filler cap. At high speeds the reeds under the round intake screen open to give the carb additional air. If they are not opening, the car will run rich at high speeds.

 

I hope this helps you.

Dave

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Fernando,

Here is a website that has a few photos from the movie as well as some other information.       https://www.imcdb.org/v054753.html

Additional info listing the car as the movie car;  https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/21153/lot/328/?category=list

The car is identified on this site as a 1917 Model 66, which I believe is incorrect.

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Fernando, owner history information has been e-mailed to you.  Sorry, no mention of movies.

Dave

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Does anybody know where Tom Sparks 1935 845 Club Sedan mentioned above ended up?  He is deceased but the car is still listed in his record and I would like to correct it. Sorry to hijack your thread Jim.

Thanks, Dave

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Randy,

I updated your cars’ records with the information from the Weis files.  If you have any further information please add it.

Chasing a car’s history can be a lot of fun although at times frustrating. I am still trying to find documentation that my ’28 Touring was originally owned by Al Jolson as I have been told by prior owners.  New York DMV told me they had registration records on my car but refused to give them to me due to privacy issues.  Grrrrr.

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Randy,

Have you looked at the Weis files under the “Publications” tab?  Currently, there is more information there than in the PAS vehicle records. Although Dalton is the earliest owner listed on the ’31.  I believe that Bernie went through old Rosters when he created his records. He mentions Dalton had the car in the ’66 PAS Roster as well as a ’64 CCCA Roster.  I will update your records while I am thinking about it.  Dave

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Hi Randy,

Are you guys feeling the effects of that little blow you just had?

It sounds like the car has sat a while. I’d first disconnect the fuel line at the carb to see if you are getting good fuel flow when cranking.  Another thing might be the float valve stuck to the seat although this usually results in no fuel at all and it sounds like you are getting some.

 

Dave

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Randy,

There are a couple of PASB articles on adjusting that carb.  Do a search for 1931 and Carburetor adjustment in the Technical Search tool in Publications.

Are you sure the carb is getting adequate fuel?

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Jim,

In the early years the newsletters/magazines kind of bounced around.  That article is in an issue of the Arrow.  The Arrows are not currently on line. While looking into this I noticed there are duplicate issues of the PASB for 1964, there were actually only two I believe.

Dave

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