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Robert,
You don’t need a timing light to time it. Check the owner’s manual for the procedure. You can use a 6v test light to tell when the points open.
It’s better for the engine to have a thermostat. If the thermostat is opening correctly, it should not cause overheating. You can test it as Peter mentioned above. If you are seeing good water flow looking through the fill neck the thermostat is most likely opening.
Does the car overheat at anything other than idle?
I need to see a picture of you riding around o a tractor………
Robert,
I called Penray and left a message with the question about 2000 or 3000. Their website is pretty specific about 2000 is for plain water systems and 3000 is for systems that use a glycol coolant. It does also mention 2000 is for diesel engines but does not say that it is ONLY for diesel. I’ll let you know as soon as I get a answer.
As far as your cooling issue, is it just when it’s idling? How is it when cruising or particularly pulling a hill. You mention good flow so it is less likely, although not impossible that the system is restricted.
Starting with the easy stuff, the first thing I would look at is if the fan belt is loose or is glazed and slipping. A quick check is if you can turn the fan easily by hand when the engine is stopped, the belt may be slipping. If you press on the belt midway between pulleys it should deflect 1/2 to 3/4″ with a light press. Be careful not to over tighten. Also, are you running it with the timing advanced and is the timing set right? Retarded timing can make it run hot.
After that you’ll have to start looking at problems with the water pump or restrictions in the system.
Dave
Hi Robert,
Good question. Are you using anti-freeze or not? I have been using Pencool 3000 because 2000 says it’s for Diesel engines as you noted. However, now that I have read the fine print, it says 2000 is for “Water Only” systems while 3000 is for systems using glycol coolant. So, I am going to call or email Penray tomorrow and see if I can talk to somebody that can give me an answer. I’ll let you know what I find out.
I have also used Napa Rust inhibitor and Water Pump lubricant which is easier to find.
Some others may chime in.
Dave
George,
I included the drum headlights to add to your vast knowledge. Maybe it will overflow……..
George,
For Series 36 Fender lights 9 1/4″ B&L Star lenses, not 6 1/4″ (typo?). I think Don Benham told me his Bracket Headlights on his Series 81 are 9 1/4″ B&L. The Bracket Headlights on my ’27 S 36 runabout are 11″ B&L Star.
Kenneth, you are correct about the names and towns. The Message Board is set up so that they don’t show if a non-member views the Message Board. That information is not available to anybody outside of the Society. You have to be logged in to see that information or to post.
Dave
Adam,
I sent you an e-mail with more info on Manuals.
Dave
Adam,
Congratulations on the new (to you) car. There digital owners manuals are available on the PAS website under the Publications tab. Digital Parts books are possibly available through the PAS library held by the AACA Library.
I am going to move the car from the prior owners record to yours, so when you get the transfer e-mail, that’s what’s going on.
Dave
Yes, inquiring (nosey) minds want to know what you bought…..
Diana,
One of our members in Charlotte, Dave Benson is going to contact her.
Dave
Diana,
I received the same request. I guess she is covering all of her bases. We have one member in the Charlotte area with cars, I have e-mailed him to see if he is interested.
Dave
Robert,
Heat is usually the key. Keep the puller on and heat and cool and reheat the hub. Ideally heating it with a torch works fastest but of course you run the chance of paint damage, otherwise use a heat gun. It takes a long time to heat the entire hub. Keep the pressure on. While you’ve got it heated, give the outside end of the puller center bolt some good hits with a hammer, often times the hub will pop off.
I have heard that loosening the nut a little and driving it around with the puller on sometimes works but I have never tried it.
I noticed in your photos that the axle nut is not on the axle. When you are using a wheel puller, you should leave the nut at the outer end of the axle threads. There are two reasons for this. The first is that the tapered end of the center bolt can swell the end of the axle and you won’t be able to get the nut back on. The other reason is that many times when the hub breaks loose, it does so explosively. I have seen a pulled brake drum come off and fly completely across the shop and leave a dent in the far wall.
Good luck, let us know what finally works.
Dave
Bill,
Is this what you are looking for?
Don,
Did you use any sort of radiator flush or evapo rust? Looks like the stocking worked well.
Karl,
You are putting some of those king size Peanut Butter cups in the Meet goody bags, right?
Bill, it certainly is. It is a fairly heavy piece of metal. I have never hand cranked a Pierce, but I would think it would take a pretty good heave to get all that mass turning enough to start it.
Art,
Below are some photos of the crank from my Series 36. I do NOT know if this is the same as a Series 80. The length is 10″ from the center of the square hole to the end of the crank arm. The square hole is 3/4″ between the flats. The 10″ arm gives about 1 1/2″ of clearance to the slash apron covering the frame. The offset is 3″. I would think some measuring would tell you if this would work on your Series 80.
Greg should know better if the S 80 crank is different.
Dave
Sorry, I worded that poorly. How about; Looking from above, turn the main jet screw clockwise to lean.
Larry,
George brought up a really good point about running your car slightly rich. The dual valve sixes have a tendency to crack around the exhaust valves when hot so running them lean (hot) is not a good thing. I set my base mixture on a level road near sea level at part throttle. Anytime I am going up a hill or pulling hard, I run the mixture richer. Check your spark plugs under different conditions to see if you are running it OK. Don’t let the car idle for any time before pulling the plugs or you will be seeing the idle mixture. Ideally, having an exhaust gas analyzer that you can use on the road would be the best way to check.
It sounds like you have experience with non synchro boxes, so practice is a good thing. Every car shifts differently with different gear ratios and different gear spacing. Every time I change cars, I have to readjust my pause time and engine revs for that car. My two Series 36 cars shift differently because the Runabout has a higher geared rear end than the touring car.
I will add to George’s comments about oil that you can change the shift characteristics by changing the viscosity of the oil. Heavier oil = quicker shift action needed. I like to pause my shifts a little longer (not good for uphill up shifts) than George so I run a slightly thinner oil. Gear oils are an entire subject on their own. 250 weight gear oil is getting harder to find in any quantity less than 55 gal. I have been looking for several years for a 5 gallon pail.
You make a comment about slow going up hills. Your car should do well going up hill compared most cars of the era. Perhaps the RR you are used to was a more powerful car. It might be a good idea to check all the ignition settings to make sure that they are correct. Also check your valve clearances. I run the exhaust valves .001″ loose from factory setting. I have not found that I am holding up other cars going uphill (except for George in his 48hp Dual Valve, it will run just below lift off speed). Are both ignitions working? My Runabout was running on only one ignition when I got it. A huge difference when I got both sides working. When you check the ignitions individually, you should get a noticeable RPM drop at idle compared to both on.
Dave
Mark,
The 1931 Sales Data Book lists the ’31 Model 43, 5 ps. Sedan at 4868 lbs road ready. With the extra stuff we all carry, I would figure 5000lb.
I purchased a new enclosed trailer last year and did a lot of research on trailers. At an absolute minimum, you need a 9990 lb GVW rated trailer. Many of the enclosed trailers weigh 4000-5000 lbs empty, so add a 5000 lb car to that plus tools, spare tire (s) and whatever else you carry and you can be at the gross rating of the trailer very quickly. Some states require a Class A license to tow a trailer of 10,000 lb GVRW or more, so be aware of that. I got around that problem by having the factory build me a trailer to 12,000 lb (6000 lb axles) specs and rating it at 9990 GVWR. Some companies will do this, some won’t. My all aluminum trailer weighs 4300 lb empty. Mine is 12″ over height for taller cars and 24′ long, so a little extra weight there. An equivalent steel trailer will be 3-500 pounds more. Open trailers are 1500-2500 lbs less depending on construction.
Don’t skimp on tires, if possible, get one with at least 16″ wheels and step up a size from standard if possible. Some people want 3 axles, I have never had problems with two axles. The big thing with tires is to make sure they are in good condition and that they are properly inflated. I check my tires with a gauge (and check lug nut tightness) every time I use the trailer and give the tires a “fist bump” every time I stop on the road.
If you are looking at used, you are kind of stuck with however it was built. Don’t get a 7000 lb GVWR trailer, you will be way overloaded. Make sure it is high enough and long enough for the car and any extra stuff you want to carry.
There are a lot of opinions out there on trailers, so I am sure some others will give their thoughts.
Dave
