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Bill,

Do you have any prior owner history? I might be able to do a search of older PAS records by owner and see if a valid number comes up. If you don’t want to post names here, e-mail me.

Dave

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Ryan,

The trailer parking is in the lot behind the hotel. If you drive around the hotel (either direction) you’ll see a the other trailers. There were 10 or so trailers when I looked earlier today. Pierce-Arrow parking is in the lot next to the hotel also in the back of the hotel.

Dave

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Bob,

The latches on my S 36 cars are different. The first is from my touring car the second from the Runabout. They fit over a ball on the top of the windshield post.  I don’t know about the earlier cars. Check with George and see what his ’18 has.

Dave

 

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I second everything peter said about Roger.  He has done an outstanding job with the Arrow for many years. It is a pleasure having him  as a friend and fellow PAS member.

If you are interested in more of Roger’s writings, he has written a book, Charles Clifton of Pierce-Arrow: A Sure Hand and a Fine Automobile, available from the PAS Company Store.

Dave

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I spoke with a representative at Penray today about whether to use Pencool 2000 or 3000 in our cars.  For our purposes, if you are running straight water, use Pencool 2000. It will provide corrosion protection and lubrication for the water pump.  If you are running glycol antifreeze, use Pencool 3000 if you want more corrosion protection and to extend the life of the glycol.  There is also a Pencool 4000 for use with the newer long life coolants.

The “for diesel engines” on the 2000 is just referencing it is safe for diesel engines, not that it should be used in diesels and that 3000 should be used in gas. Both are a cooling system additive for engines including car, truck, stationary or marine. These are products primarily for use in fleet applications, but will work in our cars also.

Dave

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Robert,

 

You don’t need a timing light to time it. Check the owner’s manual for the procedure.  You can use a 6v test light to tell when the points open.

It’s better for the engine to have a thermostat. If the thermostat is opening correctly, it should not cause overheating. You can test it as Peter mentioned above. If you are seeing good water flow looking through the fill neck the thermostat is most likely opening.

Does the car overheat at anything other than idle?

I need to see a picture of you riding around o a tractor………

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Robert,

I called Penray and left a message with the question about 2000 or 3000.  Their website is pretty specific about 2000 is for plain water systems and 3000 is for systems that use a glycol coolant.  It does also mention 2000 is for diesel engines but does not say that it is ONLY for diesel. I’ll let you know as soon as I get a answer.

As far as your cooling issue, is it just when it’s idling? How is it when cruising or particularly pulling a hill.  You mention good flow so it is less likely, although not impossible that the system is restricted.

Starting with the easy stuff, the first thing I would look at is if the fan belt is loose or is glazed and slipping. A quick check is if you can turn the fan easily by hand when the engine is stopped, the belt may be slipping.  If you press on the belt midway between pulleys it should deflect 1/2 to 3/4″ with a light press. Be careful not to over tighten. Also, are you running it with the timing advanced and is the timing set right?  Retarded timing can make it run hot.

After that you’ll have to start looking at problems with the water pump or restrictions in the system.

Dave

 

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Hi Robert,

Good question. Are you using anti-freeze or not?  I have been using Pencool 3000 because 2000 says it’s for Diesel engines as you noted.  However, now that I have read the fine print, it says 2000 is for “Water Only”  systems while 3000 is for systems using glycol coolant.  So, I am going to call or email Penray tomorrow and see if I can talk to somebody that can give me an answer. I’ll let you know what I find out.

I have also used Napa Rust inhibitor and Water Pump lubricant which is easier to find.

Some others may chime in.

Dave

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George,

I included the drum headlights to add to your vast knowledge.   Maybe it will overflow……..

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George,

For Series 36 Fender lights  9 1/4″ B&L Star lenses, not 6 1/4″  (typo?).  I think Don Benham told me his Bracket Headlights on his Series 81 are 9 1/4″ B&L.  The Bracket Headlights on my ’27 S 36 runabout are 11″ B&L Star.

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Kenneth, you are correct about the names and towns.  The Message Board is set up so that they don’t show if a non-member views the Message Board. That information is not available to anybody outside of the Society. You have to be logged in to see that information or to post.

Dave

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Adam,

I sent you an e-mail with more info on Manuals.

Dave

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Adam,

Congratulations on the new (to you) car.  There digital owners manuals are available on the PAS website under the Publications tab.  Digital Parts books are possibly available through the PAS library held by the AACA Library.

I am going to move the car from the prior owners record to yours, so when you get the transfer e-mail, that’s what’s going on.

Dave

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Yes, inquiring (nosey) minds want to know what you bought…..

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Diana,

One of our members in Charlotte, Dave Benson is going to contact her.

Dave

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Diana,

I received the same request. I guess she is covering all of her bases.  We have one member in the Charlotte area with cars, I have e-mailed him to see if he is interested.

Dave

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Robert,

Heat is usually the key.  Keep the puller on and heat and cool and reheat the hub.  Ideally heating it with a torch works fastest but of course you run the chance of paint damage, otherwise use a heat gun. It takes a long time to heat the entire hub.  Keep the pressure on. While you’ve got it heated,  give the outside end of the puller center bolt some good hits with a hammer, often times the hub will pop off.

I have heard that loosening the nut a little and driving it around with the puller on sometimes works but I have never tried it.

I noticed in your photos that the axle nut is not on the axle.  When you are using a wheel puller, you should leave the nut at the outer end of the axle threads.  There are two reasons for this.  The first is that the tapered end of the center bolt can swell the end of the axle and you won’t be able to get the nut back on.  The other reason is that many times when the hub breaks loose, it does so explosively.  I have seen a pulled brake drum come off and fly completely across the shop and leave a dent in the far wall.

Good luck, let us know what finally works.

Dave

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Bill,

Is this what you are looking for?

 

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Don,

Did you use any sort of radiator flush or evapo rust?  Looks like the stocking worked well.

 

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Karl,

You are putting some of those king size Peanut Butter cups in the Meet goody bags, right?

[Author]

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