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This shows up in the AACA forums:

Clean-Sweep Windshield Wiper Motor Service, Sales and Rebuilding

Kent Jaquith

2633 SW Obsidian Unit 15

Redmond Or 97756

541-923-4319

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Brooks and William,

Thanks for the hints. It sounds like I need to refine my search methods.

What I have found on prior owners of my car says it lived in New York up until 2000 when it came to California. So researching information from New York will be my first step.

Would either of you (or both) be interested in putting together a “How to research the history of you P-A”” article together that I could publish in the Service Bulletin?

I am sure there are a number of members that are struggling with finding prior owners of their car and would find the information very useful.

Dave”

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Brooks,

I have been going directly to DMV and getting stonewalled, It sounds like there are some ways to get around the bureaucrats.

I have been trying to get back to the original owner on my 1928, reportedly Al Jolson, so far with no luck. I will try some of the methods you suggest.

Thanks,

Dave

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Another option is to click on the “Library”” button on the left side of this page. Enter the information for you car and a list of documents will come up. The Owner’s Manual for your car is available for free download. It has a section on adjusting the brakes.

Dave”

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Eric,

They are a set of files put together by PAS member Bernie Weis with whatever information that he could locate on many Pierce-Arrow cars. They generally include serial/engine number and whatever prior owner information he could locate. It had to have been a massive undertaking.

I think Peter must have access to the information as he provided what there is on your car above.

If you want information on your car from Bernie, you can contact him by U.S. Mail using the address listed in the Roster. He does not do e-mail.

I contacted him by mail when I purchased my car and he responded by phone, so if you mail a request to him, include your phone number.

Did you get my e-mail?

Dave

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Eric,

There is a little more information in the PAS records. I will e-mail it to you at the e-mail listed on the PAS roster. Dave

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Peter,

The car number he gave is valid for a 1929 car (which the roster says is what he has). Check the 1929 list.

Dave

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Eric,

Good luck on the search. I have been trying to research the ownership history of my 1928 Series 36. My car came from New York in 2000.

While at the Buffalo Meet in 2015, I went to the New York DMV to see if they had prior owner info beyond what I had. They informed me that yes, they did, but it is against the law for them to give out that information. California DMV is the same. It turns out there is a Federal law called the Driver Privacy Protection Act that makes it illegal for any state DMV to give out ownership information.

As Greg said, your best bet is probably to WRITE Bernie Weis. He was able to provide several of the prior owners of my car. Not all the way to the beginning, but back to the 30’s. With some research while in New York, I was able to contact the son of one prior owner, who it turned out restored the car. The son had photos his dad had taken of the car during restoration, and allowed me to make copies. The search has been an interesting adventure.

Greg, How did you come up with a 1932? That serial number comes up to a 1929 133. The PAS Roster also shows Eric’s car as a 1929.

Dave

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It looks very similar to the late S33 / S36 distributor. Mine are Delco and the primary connections and cap clips are in a different location, otherwise pretty much the same. I have been told that DeJon distributors were also used on these cars.

Didn’t the Fleet Arrow trucks of the 20’s use the Dual Valve six engine?

This is the best photo I could get of mine.

Dave

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Arndt,

Welcome to the Pierce-Arrow Society.

Looking at the photos on the Bonhams site, it looks like the car is a two wheel brake car. You should be able to see the brake drums behind the spokes (as you can on the rear wheels) and they are not visible on either front wheel in the photos. The engine photo shows a single distributor, so that indicates a later Series 33 car (if the engine is original to the car). Checking the actual number on the engine against the photo of the number plate would tell if it is the original engine. It is an unusual body style.

I would suggest you contact Bonhams, or the current owner if you can get that information, and see what you can find out about the car. The first thing to find out is does it run and drive well. Repairs to the driveline of these cars can be expensive and parts a challenge to find, particularly in Europe, although with some hunting they can be found. Also, is there any corrosion/rust or wood rot. None is visible in the photos. Try to drive the car before purchase. The car looks like it is mostly original and correct, or an old restoration. There are modern wires and modern coils under the hood.

The only Series 33’s currently listed the PAS database in Europe are both Runabouts, one in Germany and one in Denmark, so the car is not currently listed with PAS.

Good luck with the car.

Dave

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Ken, Let me change my statement, LED bulbs including headlights, are available in both positive and negative ground from several suppliers. Good luck at the concours. We’ll be at Ironstone Concours Saturday. Dave

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Ken,

This article will be reprinted in the next PASB with an updated source list. LED bulbs for positive ground cars are available. Dave

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Link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-VINTAGE-CAR-PHOTOS-w-Driver-Passengers-Original-Early-Antique-Automobile/112533761608?hash=item1a3388ee48:g:WvMAAOSw0xRZmejy

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Kevin,

I believe your car has a hypoid differential and should take an Extreme Pressure, GL-4 type of gear oil. See “1603 Differential gear oil recommendations”” a few posts back for more info. I don’t believe that your differential has any “”yellow”” metals. Some 1933 models have a worm drive rear axle that has a brass bull gear. In that type of differential you should use a GL-1 or 2 equivalent oil that does not have the EP additives. Dave”

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Chris,

The Sta-Lube Stu mentioned should work fine for you. Redline and Chevron (Caltex) also sell GL-4 Gear Oils. I have used Sta lube gear oil for many years in a variety of vehicles and never had a problem.

The main difference between GL-4 and 5 is the amount of Extreme Pressure additive (sulfur/phosphorus), which can be bad for yellow metals. I think I would stay away from the GL-4+/5 oil although I don’t think it would hurt your differential, but why take the chance. Most of the problems with GL-5 have been when it is used in a transmission that has brass synchro rings. It either causes corrosion of the brass, or the different friction characteristics cause poor shifting. Hypoid differentials such as yours require an EP type (such as GL-4) gear oil- Dave

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Tony, there is a posting “2020 Winter Weekend-Williamsburg Virginia”” about 15 posts down the Message Board list that has the information. Dave

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My 1928 Series 36 has the same one that Robert shows in his photo. It is nickel plated brass.

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Looking good Rich.

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Pierce-Arrows at the ACD Museum.

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The Pierce-Arrow parking area at the Hotel.

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