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Oh no, so sorry to hear. I’d reached out to him recently and not heard back, so this obviously explains it. Hope he recovers well, will be in thoughts………
Interesting, pictures of youR keys would be of help. I have a handful of original Pierce script keys, unfortunately they don’t fit my car!
The ground wire to the carriage bolt, at the frame, and at the back of the body is common. There’s no good ground through the body itself. The positive wire should run up the side of the body behind the door, through the switch and then to the light. There may also be a door swithch, a plunger type, which activates the dome light. The ground is critical.
I’ve redone window shades myself with some success.
The main “secret” is buying what is known as “no-fray” fabric material. Most fabric shops (my local JoAnns has it) carry it.
It is best cut with a razor along a metal straight edge to get a perfect edging. The other “secret” is, that when applying the material to the roller, it must be ABSOLUTELY dead-on straight and in-line, so that when it rolls up it doesn’t wander to one side or the other.
The other issue is usually the roller itself, and does it operate correctly. There are springs and detents to worry oneself with, and they need to be in excellent condition so that roller works correctly.
Tassels, if so desired for pull downs, are available on the ETSY marketplace.
Good luck. dc
Thanks to all who came by to visit, and thanks for all the purchases too! Still have some literature and memorabilia left, will work on organizing it for sale. Happy Motoring!
$5000 would buy my good Model B shell, towable as is but needs some frame repair, stripped interior but LOTS of original pieces including sconces, sink, faucets, lots of stuff that had to be removed due to animal infestation. . Original hitch (1-5/16″, need to make a ball). David C.
I agree, ash was the wood most commonly used. If you replace the existing with ash, make sure you get wood that has been recently cut and dried. Such wood is very easy to work with, cut and shape, but it hardens over time. I’ve installed ash in a car, come back about two years later to make some modifications, and it was almost like cutting mild steel, it was so hard.
I’ve learned in driving my phaeton just to stay in the right lane.
Model 43 phaeton, which the previous owner equipped with an overdrive in 1960 (Franklin Overdrive, no association with car company, I have original instructions), can do 60 to 70 no problem, so I do my best not to look right.
My 1931 phaeton has the dual mirrors. I’m sure their use could be endlessly debated. One explanation I’ve heard is that it gives the wife/girlfriend/sister/daughter in the right front seat a mirror to use for beauty purposes (before mirrors were mounted on the back of sun visors). Another explanation is that it can be slanted to see what’s on the right side of the car, though that makes little sense on the two lane roads primarily used then.
Interesting.
Karl that is quite a nice embossment on the bottom of that feeder, mine seem to be more faint than that….
Interesting to look at early Pierce letterheads, some have cages shown of course. The one attached shows an ornate cage, though not as decorated and busy as the one pictured above.
A few years back I was on the hunt for a Pierce birdcage.
I was in contact with a bird cage collector on the West coast.
He told me that Pierce did not tag the cages made, thus identifying a bird cage now as being of Pierce manufacture is not possible.
He stated that Pierce built high quality cages, and some collectors own what they think might be, or in the style of, Pierce.
What ARE identifiable are the glass feeders for water and seed which attached to the cage. They are marked “Pierce Buffalo NY PAT May 14 1878”, The two ribbed feeders say the samebut a patent date of August 30, 1876.
1934 was a fully chromed shell. 1935 was a painted shell except for a chrome ridge around the border of the grill.
When I restored a 35 coupe, I couldn’t bear to paint the beautiful chrome on shell. I think that might be a reason one sees 1935 cars with all chrome shells.
Of course, the old caveat, to sell a car the factory or dealer would do it any way you wished, as long as greenbacks flowed…
Anyone know where the Abelove 1934 840 sedan, yellow with black fenders, went? I put the interior in it, although the rest of the car needed some work…
Ah,man, am I jealous, one of my dream cars! Congrats on finding it, looks like a good car to start with….
I do need the Bernardsville plaque, thanks Tony.
Interesting mystery, maybe it was some prototype for a planned meet that didn’t happen in Florida. It’s metal and looks real as can be…that’s why I didn’t look for another 1980 plaque.
Here I thought I had all the plaques, yet it just occurred to me to double check against published list!
Thanks dc
Sorry, I tried a couple of times to post the curtain site and failed.
Door panels are no hill for a stepper, nor a trimmer… half oval rubber to form the pattern, sewn on each side, carpet melded into bottom of door panel, pockets with elastic….have done many like that.
But, those are great original fabrics and work, I agree to just leave them alone.
The pockets sag a bit, but don’t we all as we grow older…
Beautiful car. I’ve never used one, but you may want to find someone who has the machine which “trues” brake shoes to the drum. I wouldn’t think you’d be having that much trouble with the brakes if the shoes were mating properly. Great that it’s on the road!
Those seats look very nice!
I was scheduled to upholster a 1931 Chrysler two door sedan, and the owner ordered material from SMS, sending them the money for it.
Months went by, no material, and SMS saying it would be a few weeks, every time he called. Finally demanded his money back and bought material elsewhere. Meanwhile, he substituted another (open) car for me to trim out, and the Chrysler went to a friend of mine in Ohio to be done. Didn’t hurt my feelings at all, I have trouble crawling around in a closed car these days!
Peter, I’d love to see a picture of the door panel you state would be difficult to replicate. I’ve done some pretty complicated panels before, even to the extent of having to make special feet for my sewing machine to accommodate the pattern.
As to the shades, there is a gentleman who specializes in restoring and recovering antique automobile window shades. Here is his website. Cost around $100 per shade, not counting mounting hardware.
Services Page 2 (heritageaai.com)
Wow! It’s a nice truck but I never would have thought that kind of money, it will be interesting to see where it ends up. I’d think it’s a challenge just to transport it to the new owner!
