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What number does the title have on it? If you can’t match a number on the car to a number on the title, you’re really taking a chance buying it.
Looks like a nice car though.
Well, thanks very much for reply! I know Rich and will contact him, thanks!
You missed a good one!
Great job by Karl and others, it was a wonderful event. So good to see all the old, and meet new, friends enjoying the cars and company. There were over fifty first timers (first PAS meet attended), which is not only believed to be a record, but bodes well for our Society.
Only problem was that when I got home after the meet, had to start a diet, those Pennsylvania Dutch just keep the food a’comin’!
Many thanks to Karl, Mary, Rick, Liz, and others, for making the effort to make this meet happen.
The material is called a “no fray” fabric, you can buy it at most fabric stores. It will have somewhat more of a weave evident. Getting it in the slot is virtually impossible, add about an inch and a half to length and glue it one full round. All that said, it’s a bear getting it perfectly even, so the next best thing is….
…go to the fellow who restores these for a living. Not terribly expensive and you don’t have to fool with it. About $100 per shade restored.
Heritage Antique Automobile Interiors
1784 Ramblewood Avenue
Columbus Ohio 43235-7332
614-451-8893
I have a master mechanic who does engines, mainly race and Porsche engines. If you’re a friend, he’ll work on your old stuff. His advice on my 1938 Packard Super Eight engine he worked on, torque rod nuts to 40 ft-lb and do NOT put in cotter pins. He states a properly torqued bolt will not unscrew itself, and having pieces of cotter pins in the oil is not good for engine….
Liquidation and published a booklet for all the inventory, quite interesting to see all the machinery that was in the plant….
Yowsa….I was never exposed to early motorcycles, sure wish I had been back in the day….prices have one sky high, wonder if long term values will stay there..but, if one has the money, they are beautiful toys…
Jim, excellent write up, I’ve restored three 34-35 closed cars and they all had this problem. I remember well having to do the offset holes so that the handle shaft would line up inside the wood trim. I wish the new brackets had been available.
This should be published in the service bulletin. Thanks David C.
Thanks Craig, a lot of work went into getting the mats nicely done. I know about what you mean on minor differences, and know about them, but some things I couldn’t quite get the fabricator to go along with. The ribs are the big thing, lots of work. I think at this point just a couple of people have shown interest, I’m not doing anymore, and the cost to do a few more is high.
The close up above makes the mat look funny, but I can tell you, as Craig mentioned, they are really pretty. Thanks David C.
Beautiful bike, does anyone know the history on this one? With replicas being built it ‘s so very important to know if is real….with an engine one can build a bike…
https://www.mecum.com/lots/LV0121-435629/1911-pierce-four-cylinder/
Maybe the tag didn’t work, just search Old Cars Weekly Golden Quill 2020 … dc
Peter, if you’re going to be using trimmer’s technical terms such as “squishy”, I may need to see your trimmer license!
That sounds correct to me, that the material ends up on metal in the curve….
Always hard to tell from just pictures, but it looks to me like the sides of the top are over padded. The padding should be feathered as it goes around the curve, or if there’s metal in the curve then there should be virtually no padding over the curved metal itself. Again, this is just from looking at the problem in picture, I’m not specifically familiar with Model 80s…..
Yes, the vent windows are a pain to get to work correctly. When everything was new I’m sure they were fine, but a bracket which bears all the force and made out of some mysterious pot metal after 80 years isn’t always a good combination.
How many people need H rubber now? If I could get 8 or 10 orders could make another run of it. This was specifically made for rear vent windows 34/35, would fit other years, and if I had it to do over again I’d have used it in the front vent windows too. The Steele rubber just seems too thick. The H legs need to be cut in appropriate places, it’s a little work but not difficult.
Cost would be $125 per 15 foot length, which includes shipping in Continental US. I have none now, just asking if there’s more interest. David Coco Winchester Va.
Beautiful car, for some reason I love the color scheme, I’m trying to remember why. (my phaeton pictured, though my picture appears different, in reality it’s virtually the same color)
Kroil is fabulous stuff.
You’re doing the correct thing by researching and being methodical about taking care of any unseen issues.
I don’t think you’d damage the wheels once done, it’s just that they need a little time to swell and be really tight. You might discuss that matter with your wheel guy. Even though more expensive, I’ve always used Calimers for wood wheels, and know he has a special drying room that gets the wood very dry, and the 1.5% moisture is what I remember him telling me. I would assume all wheelwrights do the same, but don’t know that for a fact.
I’d hate for my semi-educated comments to be the reason you missed shows! David Coco Winchester Va.
