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Bob,
Thanks for the correct name spelling for Kliesrath, for anyone who wants to learn more, check out this PAS service bulletin in our publication section of the member pages. It has a great line drawing of the assembly on page 8.
Karl
Service Bulletin – Brake, Vacuum Booster – B-K, 1927-1928
Subject(s):Chassis, Braking System
Model:36
Cylinders:6
Publication Title:Service Bulletin
Publication Year:1994
Issue #:4
Page #:7
Randy, looks like they started using the logo in 1923 but waited until the forty’s to trademark it for themselves. The on-line info does not mention a foundry, but who knows. Only the Pierce script hammer has the logo on the reverse side of the head. Karl
Randy, It sure looks like the Fairmont Tool logo. They were the supplier of all tool rolls at this time for Pierce, Karl
https://tsdrsec.uspto.gov/ts/cd/casedoc/sn60567302/ORC20060310183501/1/webcontent?scale=1
Joseph,
Your new parts should fit 1929 all, and early 1930 Model C 3 speed transmissions. It will not fit 1930 3 speed’s with free wheeling as the e-brake handle and the arch of the ratchet are different. I checked and it looks like the mid 1930 4 speed arm and paw is the same if you have the ( herring bone tooth) transmission. This is what is in my 1930 Model B. The late 30 and 1931 4 speed transmission, may be the same but I do not have one to compare to my other 3 transmissions on the shelf. Then comes the early over drive in late 1930… It is no wonder Pierce went out of business using 5 transmissions in 3 years!
Karl
The home page keeps getting better every day. The short video lets everyone know we are a touring bunch! I love the touring car in the mud puddle near the end. Where was that from? Karl
In the 2021 Meet video on the home page check out minute number 14.27 seconds. This is a “goose” on the tracks at the National Toy Train Museum. Karl
Randy, I too received an e-mail from the same guy. It came right to my spam folder. He must be a scammer as he also has what I need for my 1921 R10 truck. (good luck with that!) I will contact the powers to see if we can ban an IP address like I can at the AACA site. The fact that he is using an e-mail to contact us there may be little we can do here except get the word out. ericfagens76@gmail…. is where mine came from. It sounds like Arnold R. had the same scam e-mailed to him. DO NOT RESPOND. Karl
William, the frame tag is reproduced and that number should be put there. Any trophy shop should be able to do it for you if you purchase the car. Karl
Dave,
You should have a washer with bendable tabs behind the nut. When tight, you bend the tab against the flat of the nut.
Karl
Dave, Are you talking about the short arm off the steering box? That has a tapered shaft, so tight plus what it takes to get to the next hole for the cotter pin. I think there is 2 locations on the output shaft, so you should not have to go far when tight to find the next hole, after 50 miles go under and recheck for play, none found it should be good. Karl
Adam, the nice thing is made from aluminum they will be there a very long time. Karl
Just 3 weeks until touring begins in PA. Your meet committee is working hard to show you our little piece of the world. See you all soon. Karl
Adam,
don’t give up yet…
John Cislak has made the rings for 29 and up cars.
The PAF has some for sale also. Give Dave Stevens of John Wosney a call, I am not sure which one of them has the inventory.
With six screws holding to the fender you should be able to screw and j b weld it if you have to do that to get it here. The old hot glue gun could be used to Fill the inner edge so you can play for now.
We are all looking forward to play in a few weeks!!!
Karl
Adam, sounds good. See you soon, Karl
Adam,
Take a mirror and check the front bracket for 8 holes in the bearing bracket. 4 extra,4 holding the support bracket to the block, if using the upper 4, move it down, this may be the ticket. Over the years, more cars are towed back to the hotel for fan troubles than anything else. Too tight is never good, I would put up with a belt bounce before too tight.
Karl
Adam,
I just checked the book. The short number is the correct belt by the book. There are times you have to remove the fan, put the belts on the pully then reinstall the 4 bolts that go into the block. Some also have a second set of holes to add distance for mounting the fan higher. this could also be why they don’t fit.
Dayco makes a 54.5 and a 55.5 belt, but does not show a 55in. in the catalog. The new book has gone metric so those numbers are now 15A-1385 and 15A1410.
Karl
Adam,
The 3550 belt should decode that it is # 3 wide ( now 5/8 or 1/2 inch wide on top?) ( measure the old one) and 55.0 inches long measured on the front of the belt. the back of any belt catalog should match a belt. I always go to the “green stripe” section as they do not have the cogs. I will look at my Dayco book this morning and get back if you still need numbers.
The wrong belts you got would de-code to Tractor size 22 wide, 53.4 inches long which is why they are short by 1 1/2 inches.. in that catalog you would need a TR22550 if they make one or within a 1/4 inch of it. TR22553, TR22548 etc.
Karl
Jim and all,
I just spoke to our contact at the Double Tree and more rooms have been added to our block for the nights that showed zero. Don’t forget that our block deadline is May 7th, take a minute now and call them or use the easy online site.
Karl
May 1st is just days away. Make our Meet Registrars job easier and get your registrations in now.
Thanks to all who are supporting our meet in PA. Don’t forget to sign up for the Calvin High Collection Wednesday evening.
Karl
Rob and Robert: Flip a coin, loser buys the 19 inch wire wheels, lock rings and brake drums John Cislack has for sale, then the winner can buy the new “EXTRA” wood rims from the other guy…. (they call it plan B”) I wish I could help both of you, but I don’t have any in stock. Karl
