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Mark & Greg,

When I owned the two Running Archer mascots, I had one with a large base and one with a small base and I don’t believe that either was altered.

I think that they came that way.

They were just probably different production runs from the manufacturer..

Perhaps the larger one was the later production model and had the large base to assist in the dissipation of heat from the radiator.

Who knows?

Peter

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Here is another one of what it was like before I purchased it!

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Mark,

I have owned my Series 80, 7-passenger DeLuxe Sedan for about 14-years, but it has been in my family since 1928.

I am the third family owner of the car.

It was originally owned by Myron Edson Forbes, then President of the Pierce-Arrow Motor Car Company and was bought from Mr. Forbes by a Great Uncle who was the managing supervisor for the Grisholdt Rear-End Plant at PAMCC.

From there, my Uncle Joe owned it and I bought it from his estate in 2005.

I then refurbished the heck out of it.

I have not yet shown it at the Endicott Estate, but will do so this July at the Misselwood Concours.

Also, I do not recall ever knowing your friend Bill Williams, but I will think about that one.

Cheers,

Peter

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Last photo with me, Chauncey, my Series 80 and the Running Archer (aka, Mercury / Hermes).

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PS, posting the photos was a SNAP!

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Mark,

It’s interesting to notice on my first photo, where all of the plating is GONE, its shows that the base is bronze, then there is a transition metal mid-thigh (seemed to have the consistency of LEAD) and then the top section is pot-metal.

I believe that the bronze absorbed the heat, the transition metal dissipated the heat a bit and then came the pot-metal which would probably not tolerate to the heating-cooling cycles without crumbling.

BTW, of these mascots that I know exist, one lives in Florida, one in Pennsylvania, one in Tennessee, one in Ontario and then yours.

Repeat, congratulations!

Peter

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Last one.

Please excuse the glare, but it was newly plated at that time, so no patina.

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Another photo

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Mark,

You have THE MOST DIFFICULT TO FIND Pierce-Arrow Mascot.

That said, I had TWO of them and sold each, re-plated for $1,00.00 to $1,200.00 EACH.

The only photo of them shows it on a Series 80, even though the Williams Mascot book states that they were made for the Series 33 / 36.

That is an AMAZING mascot to have.

My Plating-Guy had his repair guy fashion a tip for one of mine, and it ws PERFECT.

I would get it plated in Nickel and then you will have an EXCEPTIONAL piece to keep for posterity.

There are not many around, but a few PAS guys have them, maybe a half-dozen at most, and you are one of the half-dozen.

I will post a number of photos of the stages of refurbishment / restoration.

Congratulations,

Peter

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The Fluorescent Green K-S liquid is for sale online.

The application is for an Oil Level Sight gauge.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KING-SEELEY-OIL-GAUGE-SIGHT-GLASS-GREEN-FLUID-AUBURN-OTHERS-N4-98/352344221139?hash=item52095a25d3%3Ag%3A49oAAOSwUuFW2IQM&LH_All=1

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Tony,

Ed’s first post above.

Peter

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James,

Were your test samples also exposed to the open air, as your photo makes them appear to be contained in upside down, and therefore, sealed bottles.

I do not believe that the K-S gauge is sealed at the top of the head unit.

If so, perhaps exposure to air is also a fading factor.

Peter

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Robert,

Take it from me, you do not want to try and change a tire on a rim on a Pierce-Arrow while wearing a suit, as pictured above (Chauffeur?).

I believe that Arnold Romberg / Dave White published in a recent PASB my process of how to change the tube and tire on a Series 80 split-rim.

It definitely has a learning curve and you have to be careful, because the rim can bite you if the split rim tool jumps off of the rim.

You do need a GOOD tri-legged split rim tool and a number of tire irons.

You also need Tire Lube and Tire Talc.

If you want details not found in the PASB, be in touch.

Peter

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The K-S dyes WON’T FADE if you keep the vial in a Desk Drawer.

The easy way to have a K-S fuel gauge that “appears to work” is to cut a piece of RED WD40 tube and drop it into the K-S gauge head.

I have K-S that either does not work, or the dye has faded.

I don’t worry about my fuel level, as I just fuel up every day I drive my Pierce.

Also, wooden dowels make great fuel level sticks because unlike most yard-sticks, they don’t have any varnish / polyurethane on them.

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Gents,

The Coker Tire guy states that their 32-35 X 4.5/5 Tube / Center Brass Stem / NOS, is just that, an NOS tube that is A Number of Years Old (4-years +).

Their Stock # for that tube is: 87525, and the Stock # for its replacement is: 87526.

Even though the Manufacturer is named Hartford (a US company), the tubes are produced in the Pacific Rim.

Peter

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Luke,

I’ll be trying the SLIME approach in the next week.

Also, how about posting the Michelin and Light Truck tube numbers and where to get them?

I’ve gone to two big rig shops and neither deal with truck tire tubes.

I also have my Tire Guy working on locating the tubes.

I just want to know the sourcing as the availability seems to be getting lean.

Peter

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Gents,

Coker Tire doesn’t sell any tubes for 600Xs22 except NOS tubes that they indicate are for DISPLAY ONLY!

Below, I show the link.

Peter

http:////www.cokertire.com/lg-combo-33-35x5-brass-stem-90200-tube.html

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Gents,

Apropos of my comment above about running the SLIME around in the tubes, DUH, I could always JUST DRIVE THE CAR!

That is easier than jacking it up and inserting jack stands!

HA, HA!

Peter

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Gents,

If I use that Tire Slime, or any other tire sealer, I would first jack up the entire car, put it on jack stands, insert the SLIME and then run the car IN GEAR and spin the rear wheels.

That should adequately distribute the SLIME.

Thoughts on that?

Peter

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Gents,

How about the TUBES?

George Teebay says to go buy truck tubes.

What about those?

I lose air all of the time on my Series 80 tires in my BF Goodrich Silvertowns, and those tubes are made in the EU.

Any suggestions?

Peter

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