[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Wayne Hancock also offers water necks and thermostats for the Series 80 / 81 cars.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

BTW, if your neck is not in need of replacing (but you should do it anyway), you can reduce the galvanic corrosion by putting a sacrificial ZINC anode inside of the cylinder head.

These are found at boat stores.

With boats, they are typically attached to the propeller shaft and need to be replaced every few years as they disintegrate over time.

With sea-going boats it is better to replace a $5.00 shaft anode every few years than to replace a $1,200.00 bronze propeller or a $1,000.00 stainless steel propeller shaft.

Galvanic corrosion is less severe in freshwater, but remains a problem.

If you pursue the sacrificial anode route, just make sure that you can access the anode and that it is of sufficient size so that it does not break loose and plug your cooling system.

Paul Jacob’s kit will eliminate the need for a sacrificial anode because of the non-metal material that he uses to cast the thermostat neck.

Peter

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Randy,

You should also check on the integrity of the thermostat neck, as the original ones were made of aluminum.

They disintegrate over time by becoming VERY thin due to galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metals – cast iron & aluminum).

Paul Jacobs sells an entire kit for replacing the neck and thermostat.

The neck that he offers is NOT so effected.

His kit includes an O-ring and a gasket.

Paul’s offering is listed in the P&S Directory.

Peter

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Randy,

That thermostat is a special model, so finding one that fits is difficult.

That stated, be in touch by email and I can forward the correct P/N to obtain one (if it is not listed in the Parts & Service Directory).

I have a couple of spares in my storage unit, and will endeavor to remember to check the number later today.

Peter

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Tony & Pat,

Thank you for your efforts in making an excellent Winter Meeting experience.

Peter

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Here is the Amazon link mentioned by Brooks.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Industry-York-State-Manufacturers/dp/1555571700

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Très chic!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim

If Karl’s STOCK straps do not fit, I am confident that his Amish Dudes can whip up a set to your specification (length, width, thickness, color (black or brown)).

Peter

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Jim,

Will you post the car’s S/N so we can look up its ownership history?

Thanks,

Peter

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Tony,

Point taken and thanks for the obscure but useful information.

Tire Talc is the material to use and it is readily available.

I guess that it is best to keep the Baby Powder on babies’ bums.

Hell, now I need to figure out which of my SIX tires have the Baby Powder and which have the later procured Tire Talc.

Rat Burgers!

Peter

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Also note that when new the Sedan and Limousine cars were the most expensive, however current collectors pay a premium for Runabout and Touring cars.

As they now say, when the top goes down, the price goes up!

On tour in marginal weather, the people in the Sedans are comfortable and dry, while those in Runabout and Touring cars are wearing winter jackets and / or rain gear.

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Randy,

If you liberally apply TIRE BEAD LUBE to the BEAD of the TIRE (both sides), then expanding the steel rim into place with a Y shaped tire jack is easy.

If you don’t have or can’t find TIRE BEAD LUBE then a mixture of dish soap with water will work.

Get yourself some Motorcycle Tire Irons and NEVER USE a screwdriver near a tube tire, as you will be VERY UNHAPPY when you inadvertently nick the tube, finish the installation of the rim and then find that the tube has a hole.

Also, use plenty of TIRE TALC or Baby Powder on the inside of the tire before installing the tube.

This will make the tube slide around easily and keep it from kinking when it inflates.

Then partially inflate the tire, bounce it a few times, deflated it and re-inflate.

The Tire Jack will be quite stable if you use the Tire Bead Lube, as that mixture promotes the tire bead sliding on the steel rim.

Positioning it correctly is important.

Without the tire bead lube, you can get to a point where the tire will not move on the steel rim and you will need to do what you did, use a screwdriver for the final inch to engage the rim lock. (remember nicking the tube, oops! DRAT!).

With the Tire Bead Lube, the jack will easily expand the rim to the point where it just “CLICKS” into place.

Believe me that I had a HUGE learning curve on this matter (installed six new tires and tubes, not including screw-ups when I nicked a tube).

Now, I can change a tube on a Series 80 rim in about 45-minutes, which I think is pretty quick.

Also, the rim locking system that you describe is correct for the Series 80 rim (a “U” shaped channel with a slit in it on one end of the rim, and a flat stud with a hole for a cotter pin on the other end of the rim).

I trust that this is helpful.

Peter

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Post a photo, SVP!

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Another FYI, when they plate metal they first plate in copper, polish it, then plate with nickel, polish it and then plate with chrome.

Chrome will not adhere to copper, thus the intermediate step of plating in nickel, to which chrome adheres.

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Just FYI, when polished, stainless steel looks more like nickel than chrome.

I have a lot of stainless on my Series 80 and it matches nicely.

Stainless has no significant cast to it, while chrome has a blue cast to it.

Nickel shows a gold cast.

The shower rod / tube will be chrome, that is unless you can find one with nickel plating.

Of course, the shower tube will be a thinner wall than what Bill posted.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Here is an easy link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/316-Stainless-Steel-Round-Tube-5-8-OD-x-049-W-x-48-Welded-/361334579207?hash=item5421382007:g:wCEAAOSwDNdVlrvz

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

BTW, modification is a common thing to do when it comes to finding parts for our P-A cars.

Also, I believe that in Judging at PAS Meets, the judges do not look under the car.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Charles,

Greg is correct on the dripping thing.

However, you can use valve grinding compound to tighten it up and the drain cock is easier to use than a plug (that typically drops into you oil drain pan when you unscrew it to drain your oil – a PAIN).

Also, Wayne Hancock had some of the long, flat metal brackets made that center the handle (see your illustration).

I’ll look around to see what I have, but you should start a search on eBay for the drain cock / pet cock.

In addition, there are a number of pet cocks on eBay that would serve your purpose, even if they are not correct.

You could use one of those until you find the correct fitting.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Charles,

Do you have both but one doesn’t work or what?

Do you need just the drain cock or the drain cock and the handle?

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Here is the Worldwide Auction Link

http://www.worldwide-auctioneers.com/auctions/classic-cars-for-auction/?id=8&results=y

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