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Brooks,
I already did a search of Bernie’s records for Jennifer and came up with nothing besides the name of her Dad as the owner of the car. the prior owner was not listed.
Jennifer,
Perhaps, as Brooks suggested, Jim and / or Mary Anne Sandoro, owners of the Buffalo Transportation Museum, could provide information on the car, as they have a treasure trove of information related to the PAMCC.
Who knows, but having a chat with them while we tour their Museum will afford the opportunity to determine if they can be of assistance.
Jim and Mary Anne have always been quite kind to me and though unsolicited, provided me with information about my Series 80 and about my Aunt’s Uncle, who was the first family owner of my car and a PAMCC Supervisor. They are quite good people and well worth knowing.
Keep searching, you will prevail.
Peter
Ed,
Thanks for the heads up.
Peter
You can buy the water pump packing material at Restoration Supply Company.
They show the product on page 21.
Edward,
Here is an eBay listing. Maybe the mirrors are the same, but….!
Also, i like Bill Lyons’ input.
Good luck.
Peter
Edward,
Does the back end of the mirror stanton come off to get access to the stud?
If so, you might want to take it off and see if you can remove the stud to have it sort welded on to the mirror to reinsert it.
if not, you may be stuck with using JB Weld to reattach it (does it already have glue on it – it looks like there is something like that on the faces shown in the pictures).
However, with that solution you may lose your ability to adjust the angle of the mirror unless it adjusts by moving the stanton itself.
A third option is to take it to a restorer or a machine shop to see what they can do with it.
Good luck on that.
Peter
Edward,
Could you post a pic of the problem?
It will help before anyone can make a reasoned recommendation.
Peter
Jennifer,
I bet you that the either the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, or the City of Philadelphia, or both, collected taxes on that Pierce-Arrow and the old tax records may exist somewhere.
Peter
Jason,
Do you have a laser thermometer that you can use to check for hot spots on the radiator?
If you find any, that may tell you where you have restricted flow.
You can get one for under $50.00.
Peter
Oivind,
Can you give us a better link, as going to the http://www.prewarcar.com does not allow me to find the 1933 Pierce-Arrow 1242 V-12, or any variation on the theme.
Peter
Rick,
Very cool!
Peter
Hello Jennifer,
Do you have the Serial number of the car?
If so, I can look it up and see what the records indicate.
Also, what is your parents’ last name?
The records indicate that there is no Bexley and only one 1936, 1601 Sedan associated with Philadelphia and I believe that is not the Pierce-Arrow for which you seek information.
Be in touch, if you wish.
Peter
What the heck is up with those pictures?
Sideways and stilted, even if the running car looks nice.
This Picasso sold at Christie’s yesterday for $179,300,000.00, so perhaps a Great Arrow is worth a zillion USD.
John E. Cislak
33 Briggs Street
Indian Orchard, MA 01151-2105
USA
Office Phone: 413/543-9017
Email to: [email protected]
Paul,
Thanks for the clarification and the direction to the Identification Guide.
I stand corrected about the screwy numbering system.
It was screwy!
Excellent information.
Thanks again,
Peter
Sunday, 26-Apr-2015 at 05:26 PM
Having been an ocean sailor, i had to use a sacrificial ZINC on the stainless steel propeller shaft that had a bronze prop on the end of the shaft.
With that combo, I replaced the zincs every year with no erosion of the very expensive shaft or the more expensive feathering prop.
A few years ago, we discussed this matter on this site and I suggested that the members with aluminum heads on their cast iron blocks to put a zinc in the cylinder head to sacrifice rather than sacrifice the head.
The challenge would be to secure it sufficiently so that it did not dislodge and plug the system.
I am sure that there is a way to effect this modification without causing problems, perhaps in the top of the radiator.
It is an idea anyway as small zincs are available at your local marine shop.
Pretty car!
It is important to note that one should never use water alone for any prolonged period. You always need something to keep the corrosion down to a minimum.
As far as tap water versus distilled water, you run the risk with tap water of introducing minerals and sediment into the system. This point is clearly made in Greg’s article.
Also stated in the article, which relates to Personal Computer Cooling Systems, the writer in general DOES NOT recommend the use of tap water, but DOES highly recommend the use of distilled water.
Apropos of pH levels, you need to add what you would normally add to any water that you put in you cooling system. Oh yeah, you also need to do periodic maintenance on your cooling system. Distilled water is not toxic to automotive cooling systems and as Greg points out, to each his / her own.
Maybe you warm weather climate guys never flush your systems, but I do it twice per year. When I commission my Series 80 in the spring I drain the antifreeze that sat in the system over the winter to keep it from freezing. I flush the system with tap water and install NAPA Cool with distilled water.
Then in the fall, I drain the NAPA Cool / distilled water solution and replace it with antifreeze. Repeat each spring and fall.
Richard,
Regarding uploading pics, are you following Paul’s rules shown at the bottom of this page, particularly with the filename (not file name)?
Just curious.
Perhaps, you need to contact the Webmaster, Paul Morris, on this matter.
Happy uploading.
Peter
Ed,
There is no listing of ownership years for Mr. Hersey.
The previous or subsequent owner was Steve Beilstein, but there are no years of ownership listed for him either.
Peter
