Hi Bob,
I THINK that George Teebay told me about an article Greg Loftness did a few year back on P-A tools.
I may be wrong and if I am George will chime in.
But I think that Greg would be a good guy to contact on the matter.
George said that he thought it would be a good article for Arnold Romberg and the Service Bulletin.
I will send him an email.
Peter
BTW, it is J.H. Williams, not J.M.
Regarding the pic above, see EBAY #121215927614.
Considering that I never heard of Dyna Beads, I went looking on Google.
Here is a YouTube piece on Dyna Beads.
My contact at Ramsey 6-years ago was Bob Finchum. He was very helpful and knew a ton about Pierce-Arrow silent chains.
His telephone number was: 804-394-0322 X6716.
I would be comfortable in sending them your chain if they requested it.
Good luck, and happy hunting.
George Teebay is the one who is recommending the truck tubes, if I remember correctly.
The contact information for Ramsey in the Parts & Services section of this website. It is under the Engine parts category.
Regarding the tensioner, it should be relatively clean but in need of checking the spring tension. However, be careful in your thoughts about disassembling it, as you may fid it a monster to reassemble (others know more on this for your car than do I).
Redone water pumps, generators, etc., with new enclosed bearings are identical and you keep the grease cup / cups as a dummy.
Rick will tell you about the shaft replacement, but mine are stainless.
Ramsey is THE source for timing chains. Chains do stretch a bit over time and chain noise it the indicator of the need for replacement. They are after all, Silent Chains, as advertised by Ramsey. Ramsey supplied the chain for my Series 80. ALso check your chain tensioner to insure it operates properly.
A large number of people that I know replaced the bearings in their water pumps and fan hubs with greaseless bearings and stainless shafts. Karl Krouch and Rick Horne can probably direct you to someone who will do the job. I believe that the gentleman who did my water pump and fan is no longer working.
Generators can also have the bearings replaced so no lubrication is necessary.
I hope that this is helpful info.
Richard,
If the price is right (cheap), the body and wood clean and dry, the interior decent, an engine rebuild is easy, or at most the least of your concerns.
That stated, figure $8K for an engine rebuild or replacement that you will never again rebuild unless you do something stupid or live for another 50-years.
Mechanical repair on a car is the easy part.
Reassembling / reconstructing a body, etc., is much more time intensive.
Contact Wayne Hancock in Brooksville, FL. (PAS Member) and see if he can give you an opinion on the car and the value.
Good luck and welcome to The Society.
Bill,
That is GREAT news and you have a GREAT website. Bravo!
Handsome Motor Car!
Check out Bill’s website.
He even has a link to the Society on the website.
Recently I performed the “hidden coil swap” on my Series 80. This technique was brought to the level of an art form by Mike Bortoli.
It involves mounting a modern coil and condenser to the interior side of the firewall. It is out of sight and out of the way.
I then ran the new wires into the wiring loom in a clandestine fashion and left the original coil wire in place but going essentially nowhere (cut it short, but it continues into its old position and ends out of sight) and ran the new condenser wire to buddy up with the old condenser (running the electrical impulse from the new through the old).
The car gets great spark and runs like a charm. It also appears original, as I kept the old Delco-Remy coil in place. The condenser on the Series 80 resides inside the distributor but gets a juice boost from the new condenser.
This may be a useful approach to your problem, or it may be useless information, depending on the arrangement of the coil on your 1930, Model B.
I believe that I used a 6-V coil from a 6-V VW and a condenser from a small V-8 Ford (352 / 289? Contact Paul Johnson for this info). Both were bought at NAPA.
Happy Wiring!
Just FYI, the cap is worth about $50, the points sets sell all day long on EBAY for $35 and ditto the rotor ($35). The marketplace will determine the price. The cap is somewhat rare, but the points sets and rotor come up all of the time. Most of the Series 80 guys that I know have three lifetime’s stash of each. It is hard to wear them out when you only run your cars 500 miles per year.
Hey Don, I believe that you are good to go!
The cap looks like an aftermarket cap and the major issues are as follows. Does it take a flat, spring loaded / sweep-type rotor (the inside of the cap should be smooth)? Second, does it have a notch on the underside to lock it in place on the distributor cap? Additional pics should allow people to judge. The parts, if correct, are interchangeable with a Series 80.
Note that the original caps had a number on each of the spark wire connection to show which wire went to which spark plug. Also, the center wire connection, for the coil wire, is not as tall on the original as on the cap you show.
I hope that this is helpful.
That is certainly true of Arnold!
Al,
To piggyback on Bob’s comments, contact Rhode Island Wiring (RIWire.com) and see what they have for you. They make cloth covered plastic covered wire that is very original looking. THey also make wiring harnesses for most classic cars.
Good luck on the project and I reiterate Bob’s position of keeping it original. You are trusting a good number of essential 80+ year-old systems, so don’t ditch the wiring system, which was probably one of the best made at the time. Remember, it is a Pierce-Arrow. You don’t run that much power through the lines, so don’t get too fancy.
Peter
Ed,
You are a star!
Peter
Tony,
You are a funny guy!
I hope that she likes it.
Peter
Hello Karl,
The Warwick, Rhode Island Meet runs 8 to 12 July 2014.
See you there with Ms. Mary.
Peter
Oh yeah, the Meet would have been perfect if only Tony didn’t bring his junky old car!