Jim and Bill,
Thanks for the contributions. Jim your working in forward or reverse explains why the, lets call it the Bendix, will travel in both directions.
After I cleaned off the area around the speedo attachment, it is a 1 1/8″ hex nut to get it off and pull out the shaft. The gear is held on the splined shaft with a big flat snap ring. It doesn’t have holes for a normal snap ring tool so I will have to improvise I guess. I am thinking piston ring pliers and a lever or 2″
Next is the 2 forks that can activate the brake clutch.
Next on the shaft is the speedo drive gear/shaft, which I will have to figure out how to remove
So, it allows the clutch to advance even if the shaft isn’t turning, so conversely it must mean that the shaft can continue to turn even if the brake clutch is engaged, otherwise it would kill the engine. I think???
This is the hub that the clutch disc slides on (splined).
Happens that this splined hub rides on a spiral Bendix similar to a starter.
Haven’t figured how it works yet but I will keep dismantling.
Now it is getting interesting, I removed the end case, brake clutch, movable clutch plate and got to this.
Jim,
Thanks for the photos. Ok, here is what am thinking. there are two controls to the left rear of the case, the freewheeling cable and the rod that is off the clutch pedal.
If you are in freewheeling you can shift without depressing the clutch so the freewheeling lever unlocks what the rod off the clutch does when you are not in freewheeling. To be able to shift at all, there must be something that the FW or the clutch pedal rod releases.
I am sure there are people that know how this works, but that is my best guess.
David,
How does it attach to the clutch and what does it do? With a clevis pin??
Bill
Ed,
You make a valid point. When I used to own 3 transmissions businesses, we always had concerns over tooth pitting. This trans has been inside for 60 years and the top has been on it for 58 of them. I took the cover off a couple of years ago to look at tooth condition, chips, rust, etc. I think these are ok with just surface, not pitting rust, but I will know more when I get it apart. Might need a 2/3 gear, we will see.
As Ed suggested, you won’t like the noise if the gears are pitted.
And here is the left side
4.brake actuating rod to brake cable yokes
5.Freewheeling lever ???, someone verify please.
6.I have no clue, What is it?
7.Brake pedal
8. Clutch linkage without pedal
Here are the key external operating rods.
1. Handbrake
2. Yoke to actuate(pull) the front and rear brake cables
3. Speedo input
The rear cover, bearing/spacer, friction plate and movable brake plate have been removed
Due to the size/weight I decided to use an engine stand.
Needed an engine hoist to get it on.
Pipe and conduit are basically sold on the ID dimension, so no, 1/2″ rigid is .840 OD and EMT is .607 if I remember.
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Here is the back.
Flip it over and grease the shifter socket and install shifter, spring concaved washer and screw on the retaining color. Insert reverse switch pin and you are done with the cover.
I bought new 3/8″ ball bearings to replace the old detent balls that had worn. Insert greased ball in the side hole then the spring then the plug. I pulled the spring out a little to compensate for wear. Do the same on the other side. Need to have the rails in the neutral position.”
Tighten the locating pins with a 3/8″ open end wrench then safety wire them.
You may have to loosen the screw to get the wire in then tighten it. I use stainless wire.”
Forgot, you have to lift the lock plate so that the shaft will go in. The flat grooves on the shaft serve to locate the lock plate. When you shift to 2/3 the end of the shifter ball lifts the plate and allows the forks to move
Next slide the 1st/rev fork on the rail in the case. Then insert the shaft for 1/r thru the for and the boss. Be sure it slides into the “C”” on the 2/3 fork”
Start with the 2/3 shaft and install the lock out plate and spring then start inserting the shaft from the front thru the first ring of the lock plate.
Notice the spring and how if attaches to the lock plate and the center boss in the case
All the parts cleaned and painted.