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Viewing 20 posts - 181 through 200 (of 1,070 total)
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  • in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411887

    Jim and Bill,

    Thanks for the contributions. Jim your working in forward or reverse explains why the, lets call it the Bendix, will travel in both directions.

    After I cleaned off the area around the speedo attachment, it is a 1 1/8″ hex nut to get it off and pull out the shaft. The gear is held on the splined shaft with a big flat snap ring. It doesn’t have holes for a normal snap ring tool so I will have to improvise I guess. I am thinking piston ring pliers and a lever or 2″

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411884

    Next is the 2 forks that can activate the brake clutch.

    Next on the shaft is the speedo drive gear/shaft, which I will have to figure out how to remove

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411883

    So, it allows the clutch to advance even if the shaft isn’t turning, so conversely it must mean that the shaft can continue to turn even if the brake clutch is engaged, otherwise it would kill the engine. I think???

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411881

    This is the hub that the clutch disc slides on (splined).

    Happens that this splined hub rides on a spiral Bendix similar to a starter.

    Haven’t figured how it works yet but I will keep dismantling.

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411879

    Now it is getting interesting, I removed the end case, brake clutch, movable clutch plate and got to this.

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411876

    Jim,

    Thanks for the photos. Ok, here is what am thinking. there are two controls to the left rear of the case, the freewheeling cable and the rod that is off the clutch pedal.

    If you are in freewheeling you can shift without depressing the clutch so the freewheeling lever unlocks what the rod off the clutch does when you are not in freewheeling. To be able to shift at all, there must be something that the FW or the clutch pedal rod releases.

    I am sure there are people that know how this works, but that is my best guess.

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411870

    David,

    How does it attach to the clutch and what does it do? With a clevis pin??

    Bill

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411869

    Ed,

    You make a valid point. When I used to own 3 transmissions businesses, we always had concerns over tooth pitting. This trans has been inside for 60 years and the top has been on it for 58 of them. I took the cover off a couple of years ago to look at tooth condition, chips, rust, etc. I think these are ok with just surface, not pitting rust, but I will know more when I get it apart. Might need a 2/3 gear, we will see.

    As Ed suggested, you won’t like the noise if the gears are pitted.

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411868

    And here is the left side

    4.brake actuating rod to brake cable yokes

    5.Freewheeling lever ???, someone verify please.

    6.I have no clue, What is it?

    7.Brake pedal

    8. Clutch linkage without pedal

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411867

    Here are the key external operating rods.

    1. Handbrake

    2. Yoke to actuate(pull) the front and rear brake cables

    3. Speedo input

    The rear cover, bearing/spacer, friction plate and movable brake plate have been removed

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411866

    Due to the size/weight I decided to use an engine stand.

    Needed an engine hoist to get it on.

    in reply to: Robe Rail Bar – 1/2″ Slit Steel Tubing Needed” #411860

    Pipe and conduit are basically sold on the ID dimension, so no, 1/2″ rigid is .840 OD and EMT is .607 if I remember.

    in reply to: What year does this fit? #411836

    Here is the back.

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411829

    Flip it over and grease the shifter socket and install shifter, spring concaved washer and screw on the retaining color. Insert reverse switch pin and you are done with the cover.

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411828

    I bought new 3/8″ ball bearings to replace the old detent balls that had worn. Insert greased ball in the side hole then the spring then the plug. I pulled the spring out a little to compensate for wear. Do the same on the other side. Need to have the rails in the neutral position.”

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411827

    Tighten the locating pins with a 3/8″ open end wrench then safety wire them.

    You may have to loosen the screw to get the wire in then tighten it. I use stainless wire.”

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411826

    Forgot, you have to lift the lock plate so that the shaft will go in. The flat grooves on the shaft serve to locate the lock plate. When you shift to 2/3 the end of the shifter ball lifts the plate and allows the forks to move

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411825

    Next slide the 1st/rev fork on the rail in the case. Then insert the shaft for 1/r thru the for and the boss. Be sure it slides into the “C”” on the 2/3 fork”

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411824

    Start with the 2/3 shaft and install the lock out plate and spring then start inserting the shaft from the front thru the first ring of the lock plate.

    Notice the spring and how if attaches to the lock plate and the center boss in the case

    in reply to: Transmission rebuild #411823

    All the parts cleaned and painted.

Viewing 20 posts - 181 through 200 (of 1,070 total)