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Ed,

Great news. If you can get some urethane windshield adhesive, that would be the ticket to glue the glass back in.

Good luck.

Bill

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Richard,

I have enjoyed watching your car’s TV debut, going thru auctions and handing off to other dealers. The “going back together”” is the most interesting part and I thank you for taking the time to keep up the progress reports.

Continued good luck.

Bill”

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Pretty slick. I prefer mechanical advantage to brute force/ heat

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Here is the weld around the race. You can see the 1/16″ welding electrode which is easy to handle and keep on the race.”

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James,

I just removed that race by running a weld bead around the race with my sub $100 120V inverter welder. When it cools, the bead shrinks the race and loosens it. Then I drove it out with a punch.

Bill

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Jim,

That is a pretty neat trick. I hadn’t thought of that. Then you could use Greg or my ” sliding hammer” with impunity.

Thanks,

Bill

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Greg,

I used this 15 pound tube to drive the previously heated to 230 degree bearing, but I got worried about the potential damage to the retaining cage. So I have come up with a more passive approach.

Stay tuned

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Here is how the axle looks with both cones off. You can see the cut in the cone leaning on the axle. You can also see the cut race in the previous picture. Anyone know why they forged a square in the shaft to separate the bearing?

Now comes the hard part, replacing the bearing on a shaft that is over 2 feet from the end to the bearing. That is a tall press, a long gear puller or something else. I am waiting on some parts then I can cover the installation next week.

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Your are left with the cones. In the picture the left bearing is complete and the right is just the cone.

Next I use a Dremel with an abrasive cutoff wheel and heavily score the cone, being careful not to grind thru or hit the axle with the wheel.

Then use a cold chisel and place it in the groove you have made and hit the chisel with a BFH, also known as a big hammer. If you have gone far enough thru the cone, this should split the cone and loosen it. If not repeat above steps until it is free.

Being a steel guy I don’t like freezing or heating 80 year old steel in something like an axle. (Remember the Titanic) and I don’t have the major shop tools to do this easily, so I had to rely on other means.

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The housing just taps off to the nut side and will clear the nut. You should be left with a race and 2 opposed bearings. To remove the bearings, I cut through the bearing retainer cage and spread it apart. The rollers will go everywhere so don’t step on them.

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Edward,

It looks like the mirror head was held on by a semi rectangular boss coming off the stem. The boss was placed in the corresponding hole in the mirror head and staked from the inside? Evidently, the head pulled off the boss, Is that correct?

Can you tell if the mirror glass is crimped to the head or just glued.

If glued, then if you can get the glass off you should have access to the mounting point and either restake it or make a larger plate the same shape as the boss, drill and tap the stem, if possible, and screw the head back on with the larger shaped washer and replace the glass, hopefully without having to get new glass.

I am making assumptions here and you know what happens when you ass u me.

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Yes, he is Jak Guymor and is fairly active here. He has a 29. The roster lists 9 members and 8 cars “down under”, but I know you have a very big country.

Bill

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Jason,

Here is a link to timing 25-30’s.

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=2600

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Jason,

You can start by grounding each plug when running and noting any change. Be sure to use insulated handle pliers or screwdriver. If the cylinder is not firing, you will notice no change. If the plug is firing, there will be a noticeable change.

Timing a dual point distrinutor thread is attached.

I would also remove each plug and inspect them and check compression. If you have a compression problem, you will never get it to run correctly.

Good luck with your car. Are you friends with Jak?

Bill

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/155582-setting-up-dual-points/

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Joe,

If all else fails you can look on page 28 of the Restoration Supply catalogue, They have a 1/2 round brass (steel also) that is .75″ wide by .38″ high. Your drawing is .75″ X .28″. You could have .10″ milled off the top and radius the edges, drill and tap the back and have it plated. I had to do that with a Morgan Drophead Coupe side trim.

Now that doesn’t answer the correctness question.

http://www.restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

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Tom,

Thanks for the input. Enjoyed talking to you at the museum. You will have to show me that TR.

Bill

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Bill,

I think I confused myself. I was lookin at a aaca forum. (Forums.aaca.org/f120/ Pierce-arrow-brake-lining-217072.html).

The listing shows 3/16″ on a ’30 and another reference says .170″” for a 31. Can anyone confirm?

Bill”

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Sorry, that is for a ’31.

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A ’30 is 3/16″

See below”

http://www.nucwa.com/nov29spec.pdf

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Everyone, thanks for posting all this. It is really fascinating.

[Author]

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