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Glenn,

There is a post ’33 ornament on ebay, 291302214766. $698 BIN. I do n’t know if it is for a 34 or later.

Bill

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Philomena,

If you still need them, here are you starter brushes on eBay

Item # 331387406888

Bill

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Here is a photo of the ring and tool apart. I think that Pierce might have sourced this axle from Timken as the words Timken are cast into it.

To clarify, I passed the threaded rod with a nut and washer from the right side of the diff thru to the other side, thru the channel and then held on with another nut.

Now on to the other side.

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Ok, the heat and 50%/50% Trans fluid and acetone did its job and I was able to remove the bearing adjustment ring on the left side. After looking at it, I think it is also used to center the bull gear relative to the worm gear (right to left adjustment).

I had to come up with a tool to remove the ring and came up with this setup. A piece of steel channel with a 1/2 hole drilled in it (could be bigger) which I loosely attached with a threaded rod with a nut and washer on the one side and a nut to hold it on on the other. I hammered on the end of the channel to loosen the ring.

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Jim,

Great info, just what I was looking for. I determined the cotton duck canvas would be a #12 weight, which is .0295″.

Bill”

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Michael,

Great information. Thanks for sharing all the nuances. I guess it is best to do with the springs off?

Thanks again

Bill

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Richard,

I am working on making some decals for my Morgan. If you have any on your car or accessories, if you wold take a photo and the measurements to me, I’ll try, not promise, to reproduce them.

Bill

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Jim,

Great info. I mic’d the wrapping and it was .030. I agree with your canvas analogy. Where you able to tell the wrapping pattern? Barber pole, folded over lengthwise, ????

Thanks,

Bill

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David,

I am showing armature numbers of 1837650 for ’30 A &B’s, 1836677 for ’30 C and ’31 model 41 & 42.

’32-’33 I show 183968. I think the 586 reference is the generator #, but I couldn’t find a reference.

Let’s see if anyone can confirm, because I can’t.

Bill

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David,

I really like the Stewart Warner mechanical brake and the wheel are pretty cool too. Great find, teamwork and a wonderful story. I think it has found the right home.

Bill

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Here are what the ’33 brushes and springs look like. The springs are a different design, but work fine. Notice the V groove in the brush, the holder should have a V to fit it into.

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I don’t know if the brushes changed between ’29 and ’33, but here are the part numbers for the ’33. I have also had a lot of luck with the antique tractor parts people. Tractors used a lot of Delco-Remy stuff.

Starter PA Model 836, 1933

Model 497

Brushes 16083 D750 D112 (these are various brand numbers)

Springs 34846

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Philomena,

Make sure your grounds are good first. You should have a Delco data plate on the starter. I should say 728-C, which I think fits up to ’31. There is a reference that it also fits a ’29 Studebaker President, I think.

You may want to check with Club Member Arnold Romberg and the people below that are listed in the parts section under electrical. The brushes should be relatively easy to find as they are Delco-Remy

Obsolete Parts and Equipment ,ask for Neal

And

Special Interest Autos

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=3326

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Bob,

17.56 miles. One of the problems is that the covers have to be hammered closed on the spring. That may exclude the powdered coating. I checked today and there is some material between the cover and the spring. I will do a forensic exam to determine what it is.

Stainless is intriguing, but also has a paintability issue.

Would you like a mixed bucket of spicy, original and grilled, or just one type.

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The part needs some more filling and shaping, but the epoxy sands easily. In the lower right corner of the previous picture, you can see the beginning of the next project, the lighting/throttle levers.

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Here is the repaired surround in primer. I used some fiberglass screen, like goes into your windows of your house, and embedded it in the back side of the epoxy for added strength.

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Once hardened, I took the mold off and used basic bodywork, filling and sanding to get the surface smooth and uniform. The form is on the left.

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I measured the arc of the missing section and then dammed off a slightly larger section from the good part of the surround. I used tape, but you could use clay. I sprayed the area with silicon to keep the epoxy from sticking. I then filled the dam with the epoxy, which mixes itself in the injection tube. Next day, I took off the hardened epoxy, which is now my mold, and used it to backup the missing section. I turned the surround upside down and filled it with more epoxy.

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Here is another view.

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John,

Thanks for the encouragement. Just hope my patience holds out.

A Virginian in exile.

Bill

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