[Mark Wetherbee]

This is where I sourced the gauge for my 1931, you might want to see if they can help.

https://straight-eight.com/product-category/king-seeley-hobson-fuel-gauge/

[Mark Wetherbee]

I swapped aluminum pistons for the original cast iron ones into a Model T years ago and it made a huge difference. It was a low mileage car and the bore was standard, one cylinder was belled a few thousands so boring wasn’t necessary. My typical experience is that when you switch pistons you bore as well so I’d expect it to be much different.

[Mark Wetherbee]

I can only guess at what is going on there, but it seems like the original stud had rusted and was broken off. The original stud is a 3/8-24 that protrudes 1” beyond the flat surface of the mascot and was likely cast into the mascot at time of manufacture. Once broken it appears that someone drilled and taped a smaller hole into the original stud so it could be attached to the cap and I’m assuming it didn’t work out and the epoxy was added… I’m thinking the mascot is probably epoxied to the cap and the small screw only held the bayonet on. This is a picture of the stud on my original mascot removed from the cap, that scale is 1” wide. I hope this helps.

[Mark Wetherbee]

Try calling Dave, but from what I’ve heard he is slowly selling what he has in stock and not making any more parts. It could very well be that Anthony is right about “ain’t no mo”…

[Mark Wetherbee]

Try getting in touch with Tom Vanmeetering his email is [email protected] – he advertises a lot of NOS ignition parts on the AACA Forum and many people have good reviews for him. Good luck!

[Mark Wetherbee]

My 1931 Model 43 has .050 jets and they seem to run well at sea level. I had a copy of that chart and checked everything internally so I knew it was the right carburetor for the car.

[Mark Wetherbee]

Alan, you should consider buying the wiring and tuneup guide from the club as it gives you the best information in one place. It lists 3 distributor numbers between 29 and 31 dependent on the model number and serial numbers of the specific model. Those numbers are Delco 668-E, 652-E, and 660-P. The only one I have worked on is the 660-P which is on my 31 model 43.

[Mark Wetherbee]

Might be a long shot, but try contacting Tom Vanmeetering at the email [email protected] – he might not only have what you need but also know what numbers to search for in the future. He advertises a lot of NOS ignition parts on the AACA Forum and many people have good reviews for him. Good luck!

[Mark Wetherbee]

I’m just glad that you made it through, it sounds like you’re one blessed soul! Good luck with your physical *terrorist*  and listen to her/him and do whatever they want. It’s hard but they really know what they’re doing.

* note – it’s my wife’s profession so I can call it what it seems….

[Mark Wetherbee]

Another important thing to consider is the curb weight is something north of the 4800 pounds shipping weight from the factory for a 5-passenger sedan. It limited my choices when I bought my 31 model 43 sedan.

[Mark Wetherbee]

Fantastic looking car, congratulations!

[Mark Wetherbee]

Cislak in Massachusetts might be your best option, you can look him up in the membership directory.

[Mark Wetherbee]

I am not going to suggest oil, you have received excellent information and advice already, but I will give a huge shout out about the modern replaceable oil filter holder that I bought from John Cislak. Its appearance is exactly like an original but it holds a modern screw-on filter inside that only costs a few bucks at NAPA. Considering the age and, more importantly, the internal conditions of any original filters that might be available this is a great alternative!

 

[Mark Wetherbee]

I guess you would have to be specific about “later Sedan” but my 1931 has a visor that I have not seen on any other 31’s… it was not added recently as it’s patina matches the rest of the car. ***my car is not for sale, this picture is from when I bought it and showed the visor best***

[Mark Wetherbee]

Unfortunately I don’t know the answer to your issue but leaving the tower off has the potential to allow the gears to float around as the shifting forks will not be holding the gears in place. I would think they would possibly end up in a bad combination which would be worse for them. Then there is also the possibility of the gears slinging 600 weight everywhere without a cover.

[Mark Wetherbee]

Yup, there is a lot wrong with that reproduction… it is not even close to an original.

[Mark Wetherbee]

I’ll ask the obvious, but did you try “Blonder & Murray” from Gig Harbor Washington? I heard he was out of radiator caps and didn’t plan on making more but when I bought my car 4 years back he had caps as well as the bow & arrows for the mascot (mine was missing the arrow too).

[Mark Wetherbee]

Actually they do sort of exist… I have had two different ones in my hands  – one has been fully scanned and submitted for the newsletter to use as they see fit before it was gifted to another member here, and I need to get cracking on scanning the second one which covers the early 8 cylinder years…

[Mark Wetherbee]

Well, let’s just say you won’t have to worry about not telling that reproduction from an original, but there have been some very good reproduction ones made which are quite hard to see the difference until you have an original right next to them.

That has to be the worst one yet…

[Mark Wetherbee]

Good information, I thought the bottom disc was just a vented baffle but I didn’t try taking it apart to see the construction.

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