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Thank you for the pictures and comments, it explains the reaction I got when I mentioned having one. At some point I will take your advice and have him restored to his original state. Seeing the pictures shows that I didn’t quite get the arrow tip right, I continued the groove all the way forward not adding a rib to define it.

Bill Williams was a good friend who got me hooked on mascots as a kid, he would set up at many small fleas in the New England area and he would take payments over time. By this I mean I would give him $25 at one show, and more at the next one until I had paid for a mascot he had. I showed this to Bill after buying it, he was impressed and offered to get it restored for me, but I was months away from getting married and didn’t have the spare money to do it. His price to restore it was in the $300 range then, which was 1992. A lot of money compared to the NOS 31 mascot I have on my car now that was bought a year or two after that for not much more. Bill claimed the 31 Archer Mascot was so common, due to thefts at the factory of them, that I should have shopped around more! It’s a story I have heard several times now but it doesn’t seem to affect their prices now…

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Sorry about the sideways picture, but until we can preview a post there’s nothing to do…

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Well, I ran away for the holiday and came back to quite the conversation…

I have some reddish color Viton washers somewhere that were kicking around my desk when I retired that I might try making a bead from and see if I can get it to fit the glass. A very interesting subject, please keep the comments coming!

Thank you for the information,

Mark

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Thank you again Greg

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Thank you Jim, that’s the article that kick started my searching out if anyone has made any improvement in the quality of the dyes used. There is also a thread somewhere about adding more dye to the faded solution that went back around 10-12 years ago on a Ford forum but I found several negative threads that were posted well after those. I’m going to try to get mine to work, and if I have to I’ll put a read bead that will float on the fluid so I can see it after It fades out…

Thank you all for the comments!

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Thank you Ed, I asked them about it and they claim that they have absolutely no issues with the dyes fading, but a simple google search brings up far to many comments to the contrary. That said, I can get that same quality liquid for less through a Ford dealer than them and they have the same problems – I am sure it’s all coming from the same sources.

If anyone knows of a product that isn’t fading I would be grateful for that referral.

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I will send you pictures of the dash in mine, they match well considering that it is 88 years old and somewhat darkened with age.

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Hi Greg, the book is a softcover with removable 8-1/2 x 11 page size, page number 186 is the last one, plus I have the introduction letter which is loose in the back. It’s dated 1933 in the front index page. 90% of the content is general shop equipment, that last 10% is specific to the usage.

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As fascinating as that book must be, I think this one is more useful. It gives you a look at the specific special tools used for repair work. Not as good as an actual repair manual, but as they do not exist this is the next best thing.

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I took my belts from a 31 into NAPA and they measured and matched them up with stock numbers. They even took back the first pair they ordered for me as they were 1” too tight.

I don’t know what they are for your car, but for my 31 Model 43 the belts were NAPA #B53

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I tried with my borescope and all I could see was black but you couldn’t tell how thick it was. Looking back the thought that occurred was to remove the oil filler and stick a paint stirrer into the sump to gage the amount of sediment. For me it wouldn’t have mattered, my car has only driven 903 miles since 1954 going by an oil sticker in the door jamb so I knew darn well it wasn’t going to be pretty.

Ditto Craig’s comments on Facebook, I’m not really interested in it other than the curiosity factor.

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Generator output is controlled by moving the third brush inside, the only knob like thing I can think of in that area is a grease cup on my water pump.

+1 on pulling the oil pan, I found 3/4” of crud at the bottom of mine and it was close to starving the oil pump, it is well worth the time and price of the gasket. Another suggestion I was given by several members here was to pull the side cooling cover of and clean out the rust, mine had been done at some point but I still pulled out a lot of rust sediment. I’m still pulling it out of the block by my valves by the cupful now I have the head removed. I should have saved it as I went, it would have filled a coffee can, and as I said it was done at some point before!

Pictures seem to be an issue here as there is a severe size restriction, there is also a Pierce Arrow section on the AACA site that allows you much larger file sizes and if you go over on one posting you can reply to the same one with more pictures.

Congratulations on your car, it’s going to be a wonderful ride…

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And yes there’s something wrong with the forum… same thing as above, if my picture works y’all can see it…

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David, That is a great story, with an even better ending. I’ve never had been a number matching fan until now, having the exact engine in such a fantastic rare car is incredible especially when it was pulled out so long ago. Good for you!

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I hate hitting go too early…

As I was saying, never noticed one of these before and Tim, the previous owner of my car, asked if I wanted it for what he paid. So now I need to find one that goes under my seat.

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Never heard of these before buying my car…

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I would be very leery of those cars actually existing, there’s been several scam attempts on the AACA lately, the only difference is this time the prices can’t be called “too good to be true” but more on the optimistic side. I could be off base but there was a Lasalle on the HCCA and another on eBay where the “seller” used other pictures you could locate on a google search that were from legitimate sales around 5-7 years previous. Matt Harwood said the ad even used his exact wording from the previous sale but the car went overseas and the new ad said it was in California. These scammers are getting more refined with every online criticism, if only they put the effort into real work…

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Thank you again Bill

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Once done I planned on remarking them, but thanks for the suggestion as CRS is contagious and rampant…

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Thank you David, the price I was quoted definitely scared me off. At some point I might have to get it done, but for now I am going through it myself. I pulled the fuel pump out and it is definitely not the right one for the car, that is something I might go looking for once I get through the engine and wiring but low on my current list. Still have not pulled the head off so a lot could change in the next couple weeks as the direction I will be going…

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