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After all, I am a member of the “Keepers Of Odd Knowledge Society””.
Hey! We resent the acronym…”
Here https://nomadicista.org/viewtopic.php?t=1270
is a link to a site wherein a poster describes the process by which EDM was used to create a new Gulmite wrench. Apparently these fasteners were used on busses and this is the area of interest on this web page.
Perhaps this process could be used to create new Trippe light wrenches? Posted in the hope this helps someone.
Once again I find an obscure subject to spend (some would say: waste) hours researching: the Gulmite tamper-proof fastener. Thanks, everyone!
I got that once also.
Ooooo! I love Cords and would be quite proud of a “static displayâ€!
It is a nice example and I know it will make its next caretaker happy. I rode in her on-tour at Gilmore and at Hershey.
Prayers for Mr. Solano who I met at Hershey when she was on offer.
Dave you should write an article about Pierce memorabilia for one of the Society and/or Museum publications.
In cleaning some of the parts of the torque arm mount I found stamped on one of the washers the name “Spicerâ€, the patent number 1580747, and the date April 1937.
When I looked it up the patent was for a type of flex joint which used fabric reinforced rubber discs. The washer fits between the layers and has a round lip on the outer edge to grip the flexible members.
Mine was pushing down some; I put a jack under the arm as I removed the bolts, just in case, but it was not a lot of force. The flex was distorted downward, though. The Car was sitting on the wheels but with no engine and trans aboard.
Greg, one more question: do you know about where the center holes for the torque arm should be, vertically? I am trying to flatten my old flex mount out to get a measurement and the holes are definitely not centered between the mount holes on the top and bottom end. I think just getting them about right will be close enough.
If it’s not original, I don’t mind removing it although someone did a quality job on it.
Hi, Greg, I have some of the same material; thanks for the offer, though, you are always ready and willing to help and that is an enormous addition to the joys of the Pierce-Arrow Society!
Alas! I cannot make it to Branson because of another commitment that weekend; however I was at Jim Cox’s shop last week to pick up my ’31 transmission and he has some real beauties to show you all. You will have a great time I am sure!
another
Photo:
This post has helped me, so thanks for taking the time to share.
Thanks, Peter, for your explanation. I did not know this device on my Series 80 is a valve, not a pump. Now I know how to use it effectively.
I have the drive shaft out of my ‘31 Series 43 now. The joints have a sort of cup-and-ball cover arrangement, akin to the jointbon the front or transmission end of the Straight-Eight Buiicks. The name “Spicer†is stamped into the cover. I do not know haw to get these apart but I would really like to clean them
Up. There is a modern Alemite or zerk fitting on one end and the (presumably original) pin-type fitting on the other. The joints themselves seem to flex normally and feel good.
I have the parts list for my ’31 but there are no illustrations, which would really be helpful.
I saw myself a Series 80 reproduction aluminum head which had only one of the coolant holes drilled; overheating was the symptom which led to this discovery. It was from a reputable supplier and was installed by a reputable rebuilder.
It’s entirely possible the valve stem found its way into the tire accidentally during the assembly process; not so the towel. Perhaps someone was attempting to create an oil filter? It seems hardly an accident it was spread out.
