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Too much or the wrong kind of water pump grease can clog the radiator. A radiator can be otherwise internally partially clogged or lose some of its capacity through deterioration. I have even heard of engine blocks which still have some core sand in the coolant passages when rebuilders go into them: you know it probably gave mysterious trouble when new that was never solved. Water pumps can have impellers which are corroded partially or completely away, or which are slipping on the shaft, depending on how it is made.

We use citric acid to flush cooling systems and oil piping at work; most of the commercial flushes at the parts store also seem to be citric acid now.

I drove the 1927 Series 80 I bought from Ev Young 20 miles in 95 degree weather in July and it did not get hot at all. Not to say that it won’t ever but I considered that a pretty good test.

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Engine torque is a function of bore and other mechanical attributes, and of firing pressure. As already pointed out by James it can be calculated from the rated HP and RPM, but that is not necessarily the peak torque.

HP = (torque (ft-lbs) X RPM)/5252

I think James’s estimate is reasonable; engine on a dyno tells the tale. perhaps some original test data could be found in an old SAE or ASME technical paper. Engineers frequently wrote papers on new engine designs, back in the day, and included all these sweet details.

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If anyone has the long oval pads and needs the short oval pads, I have a brand-new pair I will swap and paybyhe shipping or we can swap at Gilmore next weekend.

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I have shopped Rock Auto and always had a satisfactory experience.

With that said, the pedal pads are $$$.

Thanks for the information!

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Too early for Phillips screws.

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Is it a worm drive?

At any rate: I had a visit from a Mobil tech rep yesterday: they still make 600 weight: ask for Mobil 600 weight Special Cylinder Oil. This may or may not apply to this specific application, but we do use 600 weight here and there.

RR

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Peter, Very nice! And most helpful, too!

By the way: is that amber lamp below the bumper an added safety lamp, as a turn signal or running lamp? I am working on some for my Car.

Thanks for sharing!

RR

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I can see that my caps have a few shallow dings which I think Ibcan gently press out from the inside. A small amount of filing to remove sharp spots, a little polishing and repainting the letteringvandcarrows, and I will be good if not perfect.

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Good points, Peter. I do not have a correct cap wrench yet; however I am cutting one out of hardwood which should suffice for now.

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Thanks, Philip. I have an extra cap and after studying it I can see you are right. Cosmetic flaws tend to look worse than they really are, anyway.

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Thanks for that interesting link.

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These are not made from sheet; they appear to be cast aluminum but I am not a casting specialist.

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I think you are right: perhaps lost-wax casting? Considering the detail of the lettering it’s a quality piece of work (after all it’s a Pierce-Arrow !). The only machining seems to be maybe the internal threading and removing the sprue.

I think I can dress mine up and make a considerable improvement; I am just eaten up with investigative curiosity.

Any idea of the letter colors? Most I have seen which are painted are either all black, or black letters with a red arrow.

RR

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Anyone have any ideas as to how these might have been manufactured? They almost appear to have been hot-pressed, rather than cast. If so that seems to be an advanced process for the 1920s and for a light-duty part.

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Not recommended to scrap Pierce-Arrow parts.

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The gasket material I mentioned earlier is a rubber-cork composition.

A web site atlanticgasket.com has some basic tech info.

Cork works fine and of course has been used for many years.

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The fan hub on the Series 80 is different from the later straight eight. Read Greg Long’s earlier post this topic: he is expert on the Series 80.

Thanks everyone for the information!

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The British believe in Hylomar; Permatex, Loctite, et al make similar sealants which do not completely set up, so the parts are less difficult to take apart. I use them and they work great.

There are also some modern gasket materials which are superior to cork and you can simply cut out a gasket with a hobby knife as Peter suggests. I hope this helps!

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I was shocked at the local parts house asking $39 plus tax for a tin drip pan, so I started considering alternatives.

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Got the fan apart after I returned from Kerrville. The bearings looked fine, but there was no oil, only grease. I cleaned everything up, put it back together, adjusted for minimal play, and put some 600W in. The fan seems fine now. The leather seal was not good but it did not throw any oil out. No doubt it would if I put enough in.

I would like to convert to sealed bearings; the housing ID and shaft OD do not seem to be standard for a bearing I could find in a catalog, so perhaps some machine work is needed? If anyone has done this and would like to describe how they accomplished this, feel free to comment.

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