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That was a great process of elimination and self made solution.

Do you think you could reproduce more very easily or would it be better to have someone measure and scan the plunger to create a CNC routine for reproducing them?

I only ask because if you were having the leakdown issue I’m sure others have, or will have, the same issue and reproducing them may be beneficial to others in the PAS.

Great job and thanks for sharing.

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Bob, that is a laundry list of issues that only the properly trained eye would catch.

Let’s hope an uneducated buyer doesn’t buy this car, join the PAS, find out all the things that are not correct on the car and feel slighted or cheated thus causing the marque to leave a bad taste in their mouth.

As you said, it is priced very high for what it is, and I would hate to see someone purchase the car, lose a lot of money and be soured on Pierces in general.

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Two Optima batteries fit side by side in the battery box of my ’29.

I only have one in there now so I added a piece of 4×4 wood to help take up the extra space.

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The ad says the starting price is for all 5 of the cars listed.

1932 pierce arrow

1925 mcfarlan limo

1927 packard limo

1965 caddy fleetwood

1956 caddy limo

So I guess it’s not that out of line for a starting price provided they all run.

If they are all project cars then he’s a little too high on his starting price.

The Packard looks like a very big car.

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Listed at 69,000 Pounds.

Did a quick conversion to get around $96,000.

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This is a spectacular deal and when properly maintained, these batteries last for years.

I pulled a 10 year old battery out of my Pierce only because of its age, not because it had failed.

It still cranked the motor just fine.

I replaced it with a battery from one of these first Optima deals.

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It was changed prior to Nov of ’29 because my car has the ’30 manifold.

My car was manufactured in late Nov. of ’29.

Does anyone know when the change occurred?

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Right around $96,000 for the phaeton is not a bad price if the car is in as good as shape as it looks.

Shipping it to the states, well that might be another story.

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There is a picture of the serial number tag in the Identification Guide page here on the PAS website.

Scroll all the way to the bottom to see an example.

https://pierce-arrow.org/idguide/SerialNumberLocations.php

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So the website says they didn’t sell but are letting someone else run the company.

I had heard in antique car circles that the company had been sold.

Maybe the new manager has a controlling interest, who knows.

But their quality is nothing like it was some 30 years ago.

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Egge quality took a major hit when the original owners sold the company.

Back in the 70’s they made some pistons for our Rickenbacker that are still in the car even after a rebuild.

They list Rickenbacker pistons in their catalog because they made them for our car way back when.

But I wouldn’t trust them at all anymore.

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Ken, there is no finer, friendlier and helpful group of enthusiasts anywhere.

I am extremely thankful to be a part of this great group of folks.

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Cylinders 1, 5 and 8 were oil burners?

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I know on the ’29 an oil filter was optional and if your car has one it will be mounted on the left side of the engine above the generator/water pump assembly.

It would be bolted to the long, water jacket on that side.

As for loosening the fan belts, there should be a pinch bolt at the top of the fan shaft assembly. Loosen the pinch bolt and the fan shaft has a concentric shaft that will twist to allow the fan pulley to move downward.

The linked picture should show both items.

http://audrainautomuseum.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Audrian_Museum-09149-840x600.jpg

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Using only one finger’s worth of pressure on the brake pedal is impressive stopping power, indeed.

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What a great soliloquy, one befitting of such a handsome automobile.

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Let’s see if this picture is small enough to post….

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My ’29 is very, very original and there are two bands of black on them.

One around the lettering and one around the outside of the bezel.

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I’ve seen restored bases (or bezels) for the dash levers that were chrome with black around where the lettering is.

Not sure what is correct as mine are aged and tarnished.

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I went out and looked at mine, they look about the same shape as the ones in David’s photo.

They have thin lines all the way down the outside edge and then blend with a leaf shape at the end of the lever.

But the rest of the dash is very different since Richard’s is a 133.

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