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Carl,
The Museum had a run of ’29 Manifolds done years ago. There are still four in stock. However, they are different than the “30. The foundry that made them has gone out of business. One thing you might check is the “Lock and Stitch” method (now Wartsilla). They have associated shops around the country. It work swell on cast iron but I do not know how it would work on the temperature cycling an exhaust manifold goes through. Perhaps someone else here has experience with it on exhaust manifolds.
https://www.wartsila.com/marine/services/maintenance-and-repair/solutions-for-complex-repairs
https://www.youtube.com/user/locknstitch
Dave White
If you are looking for a Pierce-Arrow, one person to check with is Pat Craig in California. A LOT of P-As go through his hands. His contact information is in the Member Roster.
Glenn,
I believe your car has the King-Seeley liquid filled gauge. There are numerous articles in the Service Bulletin. Go to the Technical Search Tool and put King Seeley in the Search box. The search tool is currently being updated so you may get varied results.
You might also check with John Cislak (contact info in the roster) or possibly Williamson’s Instruments – https://williamsons.com/
Dave
It is listed in the online vehicle roster to a member in Tennessee.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1928-pierce-arrow-model-81-rumble-seat-coupe/
Chad,
There currently is a ’27 Series 80 listed on the Pierce-Arrow Society Facebook page. Definitely a project, it looks pretty rough.
Hi Chad,
If you keep looking, you will find what you are looking for. I would suggest watching the Emporium on this website, plus all the normal selling places such as Hemming’s, Bring a Trailer, and similar. There are a couple of Series 80s on the Emporium currently but I don’t know that they would qualify as “projects”. What is your definition of project? Something needing everything for a full restoration, or a basically complete car that needs to be rehabbed to make a decent driver. Prices, particularly for cars needing work, are down right now, so it’s a good time to be looking. Welcome to the Pierce-Arrow Society and good luck with your hunt. If you have any questions, please post them here.
Dave
Fred,
Back in the day, engine numbers were often used for the title. OK as long as the engine doesn’t get changed.
It really depends on which clerk you get. I think some go out of their way to be difficult. Calif. DMV has an online list of all transactions and what paperwork you need to get it done. I can usually get stuff done in one trip. I have had clerks argue that I needed more. The manager usually agrees with what I have.
Interesting about the Morgan Plus 8. I also have a Pus 8 35th Anniv. and it has the standard 17 character VIN and I had no trouble with DMV.
Dave
Hi Fred,
Sorry I can’t give you anything more on the serial number of your car. That number doesn’t look like any I have seen on a Pierce-Arrow. I believe it is an assigned number. A person you might contact is Bob Koch. He did a full restoration on his ’37 and also lives in Washington so might be familiar with your car. His info is in the Roster.
Dave
Frederick,
The serial number definitely is not a Pierce-Arrow Serial Number. Based on the engine number, the correct serial number would be something like 317001X. Using the engine number of adjacent engines, I think yours would have been 3170017 or 3170018. Engine number and Body tag appear correct for your car.
Dave
Hi Al,
The hubcap looks ’29 to me. Earlier years were hexagonal, later years larger, although there could have been some carry over. Are you sure about the 140″ wheelbase? PAS records indicate that the Fleet Arrow truck was only made through 1928 when production of the Series 80/81 stopped. The few pictures I have of Fleet Arrow trucks have a heavier axle without this type of hubcap. I am not that knowledgeable about the trucks, maybe one of the truck guys will weigh in.
Dave
Frank,
Information below is from PASB 2022-2 available on the website under “Publications”.
When you torque the head bolts, make sure to go in steps as outlined below.
Tom,
If you go to the Technical Search Tool under Publications in the members Section, and enter “8” in the cylinders box and “Spark Plug” in the Title Box you will get a number of hits. You can further refine it by entering the year.
A couple of what I got:
PASB 72-3
PASB 82-3:
There are several issues of the ARROW that have articles on the speed runs. E-mail me and I can see about getting you digital copies.
Dave
Frank,
You might try John Cislak for parts. His info is in the Member Roster, or you can go to the Emporium and scroll down to one of his ads.
This is the only picture I have of a ’35 running board, hope it helps.
Dave
Keith,
Most hardware stores have a spring assortment. Do some measuring on the length needed throttle closed and open and see what you can find. It should work until you can find a correct spring. The only suggestion I can give for finding a correct spring would be to contact Greg Long. His info is in the Roster.
Dave
Hi Alice,
Assuming this is one of Arnold’s cars, the serial number we have in our records for that car is 2004659 and the engine number is A-6067. It appears that the engine number is used on the title. Show the sheriff that number (see photo below for location).
The plate on the passenger side frame to the rear of the front wheel is the serial number. The engine number is stamped, not cast, on a small flat on the driver side of the block, below the block/head joint line midway along the block. It may be hard to read.
The I.D. guide is under the “About Us” page. https://pierce-arrow.org/members/serial-number-and-identification/
Please tell your dad I said hello. I haven’t seen him since the Arkansas meet. I believe maybe I met you there also.
Dave
Go to the Vehicle Roster page under Member pages and enter 3150012 in the search box and it will give you what information PAS has on the car.
Alan,
The information given by Jim and Herb is right on. I am making the assumption you are inquiring for your ’31.
The 160 weight is an old designation, but it is still available.
For your transmission, you can use a 90, 140 or 250 weight. I would start with a 140 (easily available) and see if you like the shift quality. If not try a 250 or 90 weight and see if it improves things. Changing the viscosity of the gear oil will change the timing of your shifts.
I would go with a GL-1 to be on the safe side just in case there is some yellow metal in it. Gl-4 is most likely OK (see below on checking for brass compatibility). Do not use a GL-5 unless it can be proven it is OK for yellow metals.
For the differential, you need an oil rated for Hypoid differentials (EP), like GL-4. Most owners that I know of use a GL-4, 140 weight in the differential.
If you happen to acquire a 1933 8/1236 series car, use GL-1, they have a brass ring gear worm gear differential. I have personal experience with a worm drive ring gear stripping because the wrong oil was used.
If you are concerned about a specific oil and its compatibility with yellow metals, get the Manufacturer’s Data Sheet for the oil and see if it contains information on the copper corrosivity test. A 1A or 1B rating is OK with brass. As the ratings get higher, it gets more corrosive.
Thanks for the ride in Alturas, it was great visiting.
Dave
Brandon,
First off, I do not know the car or the dealer. What they list as the VIN looks to be the body number. If this is the case, this is a former Pierce-Arrow Museum car. You could contact Dave Stevens or Stu Blair for more on the car related to the museum. Another person to contact would be Ed Minnie. He spends time in Florida and also probably knows the car. Go into the Member Roster and you can get contact information for all of them. All three of them own ’36 cars so would be a good resource.
Dave
Kevin,
Handle out is non freewheeling. If it is in freewheeling, when you let off the gas, the car will coast freely. In non freewheeling you will feel engine braking. Do you have an owner’s manual? They are available on the website under publications.
