William,
If you check the thread below yours, 1931 Pierce-Arrow information, there is a post on weights for the 1931 cars. They should be roughly similar to 1932 for the 8 cylinder cars. I am at the PAS meet right now, when I get home next week, I will check and see if I have a 1932 Dealer Data Book with ’32 weights.
Dave
Jim,
One other thing you might consider to prevent cooling system corrosion is running with a zinc or magnesium anode in the cooling system. Many people hang them in the radiator neck. There are some made that will thread into the block or radiator drain hole. Magnesium works best in fresh water, but Zinc will also work.
Dave
Jim,
I contacted PerRay that used to make Pencool and they no longer make it. Right now I am using No-Rosion. NAPA also has a Water Pump Lubricant / Anti Rust available. I haven’t heard good or bad about either. NoRosion specifically gives a dosage for straight water. https://www.norosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm
LubeGard has a diesel truck anti-corrosive additive, but does not mention use with water only. More research is required.
Dave
Herb,
They found a cracked fitting on the suction side of the fuel pump that was allowing air to be pulled into the fuel system. It showed up when they blew out the fuel lines.
Dave
Mike,
Below is what PAS records have on the cars. We do not have the current owner for either car. Any recent owner information you could provide us would be appreciated. You can e-mail me at pasb@pierce-arrow.org
Our records show 6 Model 41 & ps. Tourings exist with one in Norway and one in Thailand. Eight of the Model 43 exist. We have no information on the number built.
Dave
Arnold.
The Wiring and Tune up Guide has a wiring diagram including the Light Switch. If you want, you can download the guide from the PAS Website; Member Pages / Publications and Tech/ Operations and Service manuals. See below:
I hope this helps. I want a ride in the car at Eureka Springs.
1 -Stop Light Switch, Brown/White
and Current Limit Relay, Blue
4- Tail light, Green
5 – Headlight, Yellow
6 – Headlight , Red
8 – Parking Lights, Tan / Red
H – (Double)- Horn and Ground, Black
Al,
Below is a drawing out of the 1930 Parts Manual. 1931 does not have any drawings. I looked for some ’31 photos but don’t seem to have any. Hopefully a ’31 owner will contact you. If not, you can do a search for 1931 42 in the vehicle roster and this will give you some owners you could contact.
What information are you looking for on the oil filter?
Alan,
Asking about oil usually opens a very large can of worms. Below is a period lube chart for 1931. I think most of it is self explanatory, although some of the oil numbers have changed.
There are a lot of opinions on oil. What I use is 15-40 Chevron Delo. Shell Rotella is similar. These are diesel oils, but are also rated for gas engines. They are high detergent. Any modern motor oil such as a 10-30 is OK. If you want non detergent, a straight 30 is good for most summertime driving.
There are two main areas of disagreement on motor oils, detergent vs. non-detergent and the use of ZDDP. You will have to make your own choice on the detergent vs. non detergent controversy or how much ZDDP is needed. Keep in mind that ZDDP didn’t exist when our cars were new and that too much (2000ppm+) may possibly be harmful to the engine. My opinion is that modern oils contain enough ZDDP (6-800 ppm) for our older engines.
For the transmission, a GL 4 gear oil, either 90 or 140 wt. The weight of the oil will determine how it shifts and the timing on the double clutch. I’d try the SAE 140 first and if it doesn’t shift well when double clutching, try 90.
For the diff. use a 140 wt gear oil rated for hypoid gears (GL-4). GL-5 is more easily found, but it may be harmful if there is any yellow metal in the differential or transmission.
One other comment; don’t use chassis grease in the steering box. It should use a heavy oil or flowable grease, grade 000 or 00. If there is a grease fitting on the steering box don’t use a pressure grease gun or you may blow the seals.
Hopefully some others will join in with their thoughts.
Glenn,
I would think most fittings are available at your local hardware store. If not, try Mcmaster Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com
Is there something in particular you can’t find?
Dave
I would think any upholstery or drapery shop would be able to make that. I was lucky and didn’t have to look far.
Dennis,
I have two types. The first at 9″ are the ones made as a PAS project. They are made of sections of Naugahyde. The center section has some padding for backing. Less than 1/8″ thick. There is beading between the sides and center and an elastic band sewn in the edge. If you look at the backside photo you can see the layers sewn together.
The second ones are for my Pierce-Arrow with 12″ bracket headlights. My wife made this set. They are two layers of Naugahyde with a plastic layer between them. I was concerned that the padding would not be adequate against a rock with sharp edges, so I took one of those thin flexible plastic cutting boards, cut a circle out of it and sewed it between the two layers. Because it is a bracket headlight we just sewed elastic loops that go around the back of the headlight bucket. Easier to take off and put on.
Dennis,
If you’re referring to the silver covers with the elastic band, I believe those were either a region project or a meet project. I managed to find a pair for sale at an Annual Meet swap meet a few years ago. They are probably pretty tough to find. You’ll probably have to have a set made. I can take photos of one if that would help you in getting one made.
Dennis,
At the February Board meeting the Buffalo meet was discussed. There has been difficulty getting someone in that area to be the “boots on the ground” for the meet. I have not heard anything more recently.
Carl,
The only reason I am aware of to use Avgas in our old cars is that it will go several years without deterioration unlike modern Mogas. It is good for long term storage.
There are several competing companies working on an unleaded avgas. Of course politics has gotten involved which has slowed progress down. The FAA has approved an STC for one unleaded avgas in all piston aviation engines. It’s only a matter of time when all avgas will be unleaded. I believe that the EPA has set a date of 2030 for the elimination of low lead. There also is a lawsuit here in California that may push this up.
Dave
Randy,
This came from PASB 2023-6. There is some other UU 2 information in that issue. Also check 89-5 and 1990-6 pg 9 The Broodmoor cars had .046 jets for high altitude use, see 72-1 pg 7. There are a lot of articles on the UU 2 carbs in other Bulletins. Do a search in the technical search tool with just UU 2 Carburetor in the Title box.
Dave
The Wiring and Tune up Guide is available for viewing or download on the PAS website under Publications > Owners and Service Manuals. There also are a few unbound printed copies available from the Company Store.
James,
I hope the parts info will be useful to you. Yes a Series 51 is on my wish list, but as you mentioned, out of my price range. The Locomobile 48 would be up there also. Dave
James,
Do you have a Series 31/51? If so, it does not show on your record and I would like to get the information to update it.
Thanks, Dave