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Jeff,
The location of the engine number is described in a post above. It is stamped on the crankcase not the heads. It should be easy to find, if not a little hard to see. It is a good idea to confirm the number matches the pink. Aluminum heads were used on the 36-38 v-12s.
Brad,
I could not find any other information on the car in other records. I will let you know what I find out from Bob about the Serial number on his car. Yours should be close to what his is. Pierce-Arrow did not install the engines in numerical order, so I can’t extrapolate your serial number using the engine numbers.
What number is listed on the pink slip as the VIN? If it is the engine number, it may be easiest to continue using it.
Your car’s record has been updated.
Dave
Jeff,
Brad also did not have the serial number listed in his record. The engine number is listed as 409017. The body number is the same as the one you entered.
I don’t think the 3180002 number is correct for your car. I may have to check with the owner to confirm it is on his car. I will do some more research and post what I find out.
The car record should be transferred from Brad to you rather than entered new in your record. I will correct it, you may see some e-mails about the transfer and deletion. Don’t worry about it.
Dave
Jeff,
In our records, that Serial number belongs to a 1937 P-A 1703 EDL owned by a member in Washington. The serial number plate is usually on the frame to the rear of the RIGHT front tire.
What Model and Body Style is your car? 8 or 12 cylinder? Also, what is the engine number you have? On 8cyl cars, the engine number is stamped into flat area on left side of block in upper center, just below the cylinder head to block joint. On 12 cyl engines, stamped into flat area, right rear of crankcase behind rear cylinder. This number is stamped across the rear of the crankcase and may require a mirror to observe.
The firewall tag and front passenger compartment tag are likely the body number. It should be something like 000-x-000.
I know at one point reproduction Serial Number plates were made. I do not if they are still available.
Dave
Thanks Peter, We have had fun with it.
Don, isn’t a Runabout what you would take on a picnic in the country? So we added the picnic basket. It was difficult to find one large enough that it looked OK. The perspective in the photo makes it look bigger than it is.
Jim,
The original post has been forwarded to one of our legal guys.
Jim,
Pierce Mfg. (now owned by Oshkosh) that makes Pierce Firetrucks has been in business since 1913. Their trucks are branded Pierce although they do make an Arrow model. I’m not sure how that fits into the Pierce-Arrow trademark issue.
Dave
Peter and Herb,
My cap is 16 TPI.
Adam,
When you get done with the process, send me any updates you think should be added, and I’ll re-print the process. Thanks.
Peter,
The inside diameter (top of threads) of the radiator neck on my Series 36 is 1.97″. Cap is 2.03″ diameter across the top of the threads. I didn’t check the pitch, but can if you need it.
Dave
Adam,
I am told yours should be 2 shoe. I don’t know enough about the 8 cyl cars to know which you have. Let me know what you find out, it might be time for an update on the subject in the PASB.
Adam,
Two other PASBs you might check are 1974-5 and 1977-3. One is on the 3 shoe brakes the other on the 2 shoe. I am not sure what yours has. The 74-5 issue has lots of pictures. Do you know which type of brakes you have?
Dave
Fred,
100530 is a 1930 Model C and 230872 is a 1932 Model 54. Neither engine number is in our records. I will enter them onto your record. If you get the chance, could you check the frame behind one of the front wheels (usually right) for a plate with the serial number? They might prove helpful. Thanks for your help.
Hi Fred,
Could you post or e-mail the serial number so I can update PAS records? Good luck on the project.
Dave
OK, how about this one? I had forgotten I took this picture. A 1934 840A that was at the Lancaster meet and belonged to John Cislak. You might ask him about the originality
.
Photos stolen from the internet. I have no idea if it’s original but at least it gives an idea what it looks like.
Joe,
Glad you got the car home. It looks like it will cleanup nicely.
Welcome to the Pierce-Arrow Society.
Try John Cislak, he specializes in ’30s era Pierce-Arrows. 413/543-9017
Email: [email protected]
Do you own the Pierce-Arrow or just rebuilding an engine for someone else?
Dave
My experience with Passport was the opposite. They said two to three weeks and it was three months. They didn’t return calls, wouldn’t give an answer when they were going to pick the car up and then called and said we’ll be there today, no notice. I gave them a short window when I would be out of the country and couldn’t accept delivery. They acknowledged this and said they would work around it. Fortunately I got home early because they showed up during the time I was supposed to be gone. To top it off, the car was damaged during transport. I had been given a good recommendation prior to hiring them.
I agree about brokers, be careful.
Dave
