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The Packard striped cloth is available in two different styles from Jenkins in North Carolina. He’s out of one style, waiting on a run of it…..
I’ve been doing tops and interiors since I retired from an Engineering career 6 years ago. I did it professionally for a couple of years, apprenticed under a master trimmer.
I don’t claim to do Pebble Beach quality. I have numerous AACA and CCCA winners under my belt.
I’m trying to finish a couple of promised projects, a Pierce that should be done in January and a Packard that’s coming after.
For a big sedan, 15-20 yards of fabric, if done correctly 250-300 hours. By “done correctly” I mean springs taken apart, cleaned, repocketed (that’s 70 hours right there), correct horsehair and cotton and so forth. $2000 for materials and $12,000-15,000 labor.
An open car, $4,000-$5,000 for top all in, which includes some adjustment of irons and bows but if major problems with structure then more.
Open car interior, on a touring, 6 or 7 fifty square foot hoses of leather, anywhere from $5 to $12 a square foot. Let’s say $3,000 to $4,000 for materials. Another $10,000-$12,000 in labor for interior.
These are rough numbers from what I’ve been charging. Sometimes more, sometimes less. This also presumes everything is rechromed, all trim pieces ready, and no major rebuild of components. A real business might want more to cover overhead, and we’re not talking the Pebble Beach restoration guys, that’s a whole different level as Ed mentions.
For example, I know of a shop that just did a 1940 Packard 120 convertible coupe front seat, bill was $4150 all in and done.
I have one in my memorabilia collection. They don’t show up very often….
I replaced rod Babbitt with inserts on two car, my ’31 Pierce and my ’38 Packard Super 8.
The Pierce rods were sent to a shop in California, with the sides built up to “replace” the side flanges. Worked perfectly.
When we did my Packard, I could find no one who would build up the side flanges, so we decided to braze three “dots” on each side of each rod, and machine to proper clearance. There is no side thrust so brazing was considered fine, and then inserts were fitted. There is NO loss of oil pressure due to not having side flanges. This solution has worked fine.
As a side note, comparing early aircraft engines is a tough comparison to a car engine. For example, the OX-5 engines that powered Jennys were extremely complex, with literally hundreds of parts, the failure of ANY ONE would cause engine to fail. That said, the average life of a Jenny airplane was measured in hours, or generously, tens of hours, on the warfront, so an engine only had to be “reliable” for a short time. I’ve worked side by side with a friend as he rebuilt an OX-5, they are scary complicated and fragile….
I would bet, from an engineering viewpoint, that the discussion of the spring shackle design was about the fact that there is negligible angular movement of the spring.
Thus, the ball bearing shackles did not rotate as most bearings do, in revolutions, but rather only slightly moved as the main spring leaf traveled through an arc of very few degrees.
I’d wager the thought was that a little grease upon installation, maybe a squirt of oil every now and then, was all they figured they needed.
“To David’s point, this roof must have a 1000 screws in it and very few tacks or nails. Might try a few tacks before I button everything up.”
My comment was directed toward the insert fabric roof that would be installed on a closed car, it gets tacks around the perimeter, although one could argue that staples (which I don’t use) would hold in most woods.
I buy the roll of mask-off paper that the local body shop supply place sells. about 30 inches wide and a large roll is around 30 bucks.
Use it and the blue painter’s tape a LOT on my projects…..
The problem with using oak is that it’s a loose grain wood, and splits very easily when using tacks or nails. Ash is a tight grain wood, much better for wood framing.
This is from the viewpoint of a trimmer who’s had to deal with poor wood in a restoration.
another picture
The one in the pictures that has no back will fit your car, though it has been modified.
Let me know when you decide, as I’ve had other interest in these manifolds and was holding for your decision.
Thanks David C.
I’ve contacted a couple of companies about making a run of at least 10 mats, but so far no one has given me a quote.
I sent them much more detailed drawings and still no word.
The “modern” method of reproducing this mat involves getting a 3-D electronic drawing, then having a CNC machine work on a large plate to make the mold.
One gentleman has been helping me try to find a manufacturer, if anyone has any ideas let me know. thanks David C.
When I first read it, I thought they were removing the plaque permanently, then saw that they were taking it off to restore/preserve and it would go back on. Kudos to the developer, at least the building is being saved…
Syd, I’ve had some issues which kept me from being 100%. Sorry for delay. I just sent you numerous pictures, if you have any questions let me know [email protected]
back of manifold, no distribution plate
Syd, it’s [email protected] … I’ll get measurements today, I think both of my “good” ones have been modified.
The manifolds are all identical except for location of water inlet in the side, the earlier ones have inlets about 6 inches or so further forward.
If you need just the outside cover, this is a good one. It has been modified with the inlet moved forward and would fit your car. To be sure, send me a measurement from front of cover to hole center and we can verify. You’d have to either use the distribution plate off your old one, or make a new one.
On the lower tire “clamps”, aluminum would be fine, as they really don’t hold anything. They’re there as a theft deterrent, with a key and lock. I don’t even think they touch the rim of the tire.
I’d think you’d want something other than aluminum, though, if you plan to chrome them…
That Cord was a steal at 70K, that’s for sure, unless it was a repro body or modern drive train. I’ve been offered more than that for my unrestored, driving Cord standard phaeton.
The Duesenberg was a “new” body with an original engine and chassis, so that accounts for at least part of the “low” price. As Ed has pointed out to me, provenance for cars is now critical as it relates to value, and rebodied hurts the value.
I have three extra that are available, if Craig’s does not work for you. The difference in the early and late for 8’s is, as mentioned, inlet hole location.
-one very good cover, no back distribution plate
-one excellent complete, was only on a car for a short time, may have to move inlet
-one complete surface rusty one, condition unknown
Ed, I can’t find it on Ebay, if you have a link please post it..thanks
“They probably already know that bolt is wrong or this or that is wrong. They don’t need you to point it out.”
I’m always amazed at the people who come up to my Pierce and say things like “did you know you had a scratch on your rear fender” or “did you know you’re supposed to have a bare headed archer on your car, that one’s incorrect”.
I’ve owned the car 35 years and known the car over 50 years. Yes, I know just about every nut and bolt and scratch and oddball part on the car, thank you very much.
As stated, why pick on a car to the owner? No purpose in it…unless he asks for your specific opinion…
