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Nice, I’ve found those wrenches to be not only nice to look at, but very functional, for hubcaps et al….it’s a Crescent wrench in disguise!!
I had a friend mention to me that he uses the universal hot rod hood holders on a Pierce, see attached Ebay auction, but I’m sure they’re available through catalogs too.
Yes, sorry to miss meet and seeing everyone but just didn’t work out.
No, not that I’m aware of, there are no provisions on my phaeton for one, the hood just lays up….
Guess I’ll just go out to the garage, sit in my Pierce, and cry. Glad y’all are having a good time!
I’m like Ed, missing you guys, y’all will have fun I’m sure….
Bill, you did a great job, thanks for posting! The young lady seems to be very good at posing for the camera and very bad at interviewing…..
You can read all about it on this AACA thread. It states that it’s covered in gold leaf, not plated.
I recall over the years numerous articles about the car, so it’s not “unknown” by any means.
If you read the thread attached, you can get a timeline of the car’s existence.
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/140600-gold-plated-pierce-arrow/
It was metallic? I stand corrected and yield to Ed’s font of knowledge!
My Model B appears to have original paint on it, and it’s more silver than anything, but not a shiny silver. A very light gray may work too, it’s a light color.
It goes without saying that it’s not a metallic paint, even though I just said it!
Sorry I can’t be of more help, I plan to go with a gray color, similar to the 1979 Citroen Deux Chevaux Charleston model, a two tone gray, using the lighter of the two grays…
Great car. From my experience, you have a couple of problems. The oil cooler circuit on the car is compromised, thus you have oil getting into the coolant and vice versa, depending on pressures.
The oil coolers are little honeycomb radiators, and usually can only be fixed by filling up the leaking cell with solder. The best bet is to disassemble the cooler and put in a bypass copper line, no cooling, it’s not necessary, although Pierce engineers thought so when they went to hydraulic valves.
The second thing, water pumps will suck in air. If the shaft is worn or not a good seal, then that’s a problem. Either make sure that there’s packing and/or water pump grease, or change the shaft and seal
Good luck.
I’ve discussed these cars with Mike, he has good offers on the cars now and is getting real close to selling, if you have any real interest now’s the time to move….I have no interest in these, either buying or selling, just making sure that someone doesn’t hesitate and lose out….
I don’t have experience with this company, but I just sold a car that’s going overseas, the buyer has a small museum and says these guys are excellent.
Thanks to everyone who came and shared the tour with us! It was great visiting with all….and I’m under orders to arrange better weather next year!!
The rain in the area is incredible, it rained all night and is still raining today, ground is soaked and my trailer (with Pierce in it!) is sunk in the yard…..
Not too late to come join us this Saturday! Three great car collections and lunch at a historic Inn……
Pierces from 1932(?) forward had 342 sq in of swept brake surface My’31 Model 43 has huge brake drums, something like four feet of brake shoe surface per wheel…no problem braking, but as mentioned, they have to be set up correctly.
One can’t drive an old car like a new car. Daily, I see people accelerating until the last second, then slamming on the brakes when they see a stop light or sign. Even in a modern car, I start slowing down well in advance of an anticipated stop, yet people tailgate and get PO’d that you’re slowing down.
If you drive your car frequently, go ahead and install hydraulics. If you drive occasionally, get the mechanicals up to par, otherwise you’ll spend your time fixing the hydraulics a LOT.
Most cars of the time, particularly Pierce, had adequate brakes if driven correctly. If they don’t work to your satisfaction, try to fix the basix problem first.
OK, off my soapbox now!
Yes, but Ford didn’t convert to hydraulic brakes until what, 1938 or 1939?
That tells me that mechanical brakes worked just fine.
It’s all in the condition and adjustment. Personally, I think hydraulic brakes are a pain in the arse, between corrosion and maintenance, I’d rather have a correct mechanical setup than fool with cylinders and leaks and such.
My ’31 Pierce has excellent mechanical brakes, set up and adjusted by an old time mechanic who knows his stuff. I’m of the opinion that when there’s complaint about how an old car drives, it’s because of condition of the old car being poor. If an old car had been hard to start, steer, stop, when new, they wouldn’t have been able to sell them.
That Pierce Stanhope has some issues just from a cursory inspection of the pictures. Nothing huge, but things that need attention.
The broker that advertises the car is notorious for asking very high prices, maybe she gets them sometimes, and of course you can ASK anything.
Bob C., you ARE coming to the June 2st Pierce tour in Maryland, correct? I hear Mr. Brown needs a navigator!
Before you go to all the trouble of hydraulic brakes (which will require maintenance that mechanical brakes don’t need), make sure all your brake components are in correct condition.
All linkages are tight and have no wear, brake drums in excellent condition, no oil leaks from the axle, and possibly the most important, you have the CORRECT brake lining material.
I’ve driven a 1911 Buick roadster, the big model, with rear brakes only that were set up by an owner who really knew his stuff. The brakes were great, easy pedal and fast stopping. BUT, everything has to be correct for that to happen.
Although the auction company is in California, one of the cars shows Ohio license plates, and they mention that they’ll reveal auction location only a few days before auction.
Wow, that’s a pretty hefty load for a little Bobcat…..operator definitely knew what he was doing!
